A Guide to Cold-Proofing Your Beauty Regimen

Industry insiders reveal how to protect and nourish your winter skin when spring seems a long way off.

Article by Victoria Pearson

Photography by Joanna Nix-Walkup.

In the spirit of impartiality, let’s kick this off with some of the benefits of the coldest months. It may take us by surprise each year, but winter brings with it a host of delicious produce, smart outerwear and a general sense of cosiness. The downside? Cooler temperatures often require some urgent skin-related climate control.

Sydney-based dermatologist Dr Natasha Cook knows the need all too well, thanks to winter’s double-punch combination of low humidity and frequent cold-to-hot environmental transitions. Reduced humidity in winter “draws moisture out of the skin, increasing dryness and literally ‘cracking’ the outer layer,” Cook says. When this happens the skin is unable to protect itself, and its compromised barrier can lead to itching and sensitivity, and, in some cases, eczema.

“Moisturise, moisturise, moisturise,” advises Cook, paying special attention to products with occlusives and humectants — which both hydrate and retain moisture — such as her Concentrated Hydration+ Intensive Moisture Booster. “This builds the barrier, stopping it drying out and cracking and preventing the majority of skin problems.” T Australia staff favourites also include Santa Maria Novella Vitamin F Cream and Sisley Velvet Nourishing Cream.

Fay Halkitis, a naturopath, beauty therapist and the owner of Luna Beauty & Apothecary in Sydney’s Surry Hills, reiterates winter’s dehydrating impact on the skin’s barrier. Her first tip: scrap the tap water, especially hot showers. “Avoid putting your face directly under the showerhead and running water,” she says. Instead, dampen a muslin face cloth and wring out excess water, using the cloth’s warmth to gently compress and steam skin before wiping away cleanser.

“Generally speaking, if you have oilier or congestion-prone skin, it’s a good idea to use an exfoliant every seven to 10 days to encourage cell turnover,” Halkitis says, as it allows for better absorption of moisturisers. She recommends multitasking exfoliant Scrub Face Mask by Linné to gently buff away rough skin. Dry, thirsty skin could benefit from a hydrating mask, such as Josh Rosebrook’s Advanced Hydration Mask (leave on overnight for maximum cellular moisture retention), while those with uneven skin types should focus on their cleanser. “If you were using a gel or foam cleanser in summer, try switching to a milk or oil cleanser for winter,” Halkitis suggests. Try Wonder Valley Oil Cleanser for its gel-like consistency, which transforms into a milky emulsion with water.

Photography by Joanna Nix-Walkup.

“Nutritionally, we want to encourage good blood flow and circulation throughout the body. This will help avoid lacklustre or dull-looking skin, too,” Halkitis says. Reduce consumption of raw, cold foods and opt for slow-cooked, warming foods, herbs and spices instead. “Herbal teas are a great way to keep your water intake up while keeping you warm. Try a blend of ginger, lemon and manuka,” Halkitis suggests.

And don’t bypass your brows. “Just like our hair and skin, the brows become brittle and dry during the cooler months,” explains brow expert Amy Jean Linnehan. Linnehan, who has five eponymous salons across Australia and a luxury product range, Amy Jean Privée, stocked at Harrods and Net-A-Porter, launched her leave-in Daily Brow Mask late last year. Loaded with potent natural ingredients such as cold-pressed castor, argan, sunflower and almond oils, the mask promotes growth, nourishment and hydration. “It’s the perfect leave-in treatment for the brows during the winter months as it combats dehydration of the brow hair follicles and surrounding skin,” Linnehan says.

Our lips require maintenance as well. The Milk Makeup global studio artist Sara Wren keeps the brand’s Melatonin Overnight Lip Mask close at hand throughout the season. “Not only does it smell amazing — like lavender and chamomile — it also contains hyaluronic acid to hydrate for plumper-looking, smoother-looking lips.”

The cold doesn’t give you a reprieve from suncare, either. “It’s still so important for keeping your skin protected,” says Wren. “I love Sunshine Skin Tint SPF 30 all year round because it’s made with coral reef-safe SPF 30 and moisturises with a ton of natural oils and plant-derived squalane to lock in that hydration.”