The author in the Artura on the Sea Cliff Bridge. You can get to the heart of the Southern Highlands, 120 kilometres south of Sydney, easily enough by the train line that runs through the middle of it. But to really immerse yourself in the very best of this beautiful, bountiful corner of the world, you’ll need two things: a car, and a roof over your head for at least one night. Because without a weekend at your disposal — preferably a long one — it would be impossible to experience the Southern Highlands’ abundance of local produce, stunning experiences and friendly hospitality any other way.
For a trip of this type, the McLaren Artura is an intriguing companion. A race-bred high-performance sports car it certainly is, but it doesn’t take long at all to discover that there’s also a civilised and eminently luxurious nature to the McLaren that’s eminently well suited to purr along the Highlands’ many winding country byways.
Cruising south out of Sydney via the coastal road that crosses the famous Sea Bridge and then meanders through a succession of coastal hamlets towards Wollongong, there’s an almost Big Sur, California-like feel. It’s around the time of school drop-offs, and I can sense heads swivelling as young eyeballs play off the Artura’s low-slung frame and wide air intakes. Parents pause momentarily to peer through the raked windscreen, hoping in vain to catch a glimpse of the rock star or mega-celebrity who’d be audacious enough to drive such a vehicle.
Young or old, probably none would have guessed that this no “ordinary” McLaren (if such a thing were to exist). There’s no outward design cue that suggests the Artura is, in fact, the company’s first plug-in hybrid, and also the most advanced road car it has ever built. That technology means it can operate purely as an electric vehicle for up to 33 kilometres, emitting no CO2 at all from its admittedly rather overt pair of stainless-steel tailpipes framing the rear fascia, directly below a curvaceous spoiler that looks like it might have been stolen from the wing of a fighter jet. Should those same onlookers have cocked a curious ear in an effort to catch the signature tune of a McLaren-made twin-turbocharged V6, they’d have been left wanting. The Artura glides past in virtual silence thanks to the power-dense, compact e-motor concealed beneath its flanks.
The McLaren name has always stood for innovation — something I’m keenly aware of and primed to explore over the course of this trip. But this new Artura also has a bent for sustainability. By plugging in to renewable energy and/or making the most of the regenerative energy the car can harvest while driving, I can theoretically cover some of the short trips around and between the picturesque Highlands townships with low emissions, or even none at all. With so much natural beauty to look forward to, that provides a genuinely warming feeling of anticipation as I flick the right-hand indicator to turn inland towards towns such as Bowral, Moss Vale and Robertson, which lie at the heart of the Southern Highlands.
The Highlands themselves are an enigmatic mix — more old than new and home to some classic residences, but also welcoming of newer technologies and more sustainable thinking that’s in line with a determination to preserve regions like this of such natural abundance. At some 500 to 900 metres above sea level, the Highlands is a designated cool-climate wine region, and almost entirely surrounded by national parks. Along the way I’ll also learn about Indigenous lore, which tells of how the Southern Highlands’ mountains and valleys were created by a battle between a sea serpent and a giant quoll.
Considering the Highlands’ chilly winters and warmish summers, the best time to visit is arguably in spring, as the deciduous trees return to green, the local bush blooms with banksias and there’s an accompanying soundtrack of active birdlife. Autumn visitors, meanwhile, are rewarded with Instagram-worthy riots of colour in every direction when the leaves on those same trees famously start preparing for the coming colder months.
Fermento Artisan Bakery
Any good road trip ought to kick off with high-quality coffee, so the obvious first port of call is at Fermento Artisan Bakery on Bowral’s Bong Bong Street, the town’s bustling main thoroughfare flanked by two proud rows of colonial-era buildings.
Inside, there’s the welcoming din of a coffee grinder and clinking cups and saucers. The smell of coffee competes for airtime with glorious, freshly baked bread.
Diego Mazza, the Italian-born former chef who runs Fermento, was once a restaurateur in Canberra, but now proudly calls the Southern Highlands home. Under his watch, Fermento bakes its own goods in-house, and the Italian influence is clear in menu items such as salmon rillettes, bomboloni (Italian filled doughnuts) and rustico pastries. The divinely crusty sourdough bread is worth the visit alone.
Craftsmanship, Mazza confides, is essential to his vision for both Fermento and his second business, Baked in Berrima, a thriving cake shop in the nearby village of Berrima. “I don’t need it perfect in the form, but I want it as close to perfect as it can be in the flavour,” he says. “That’s something I cannot compromise. And that’s been since day one when we opened the bakery.”
Concluding our chat, Mazza hands over a golden loaf. “It brings good luck when you give a loaf of bread,” he says with a smile.
275 Bong Bong Street, Bowral
0449 728 179
opens 7am, 7 days
fermento_bakery_bib
Returning to the Artura with piping hot coffee in one hand and freshly baked bread in the other, I’m thinking about the nature of craftsmanship. It’s something that you work on, over years and even decades, to perfect the finest details down to an experience that’s as close to flawless as it’s possible to achieve.
McLaren might be a relative newcomer to the world of road-going supercars compared with some of its storied rivals, but the company has been turning out world championship-winning racing cars since 1963, and has been obsessed with getting the details right ever since. That’s evident when you open the door of the Artura — they open upwards and out, like wings. Eye-catching, yes. Showy, even. But also, their clever design makes it relatively easy to slide into the racing-inspired driver’s seat with a modicum of grace.
Taking a moment to savour the quality of the Fermento brew, it’s a joy to simply let my hands discover the Artura’s many surfaces. There’s waxy-smooth leather, soft Alcantara and the cool touch of solid metal gearshift paddles behind the steering wheel that chink pleasingly under the tap of fingernails.
Starting the Artura is a simple affair, and for a genuine supercar, capable of a top speed of 330 kilometres an hour, it’s surprisingly manoeuvrable amid Bong Bong Street’s mid-morning throng. Setting the onboard navigation for Eden Brewery in nearby Mittagong, there’s another opportunity to experience the rare thrill of its whisper-quiet, electric-only mode. Should the occasion call for a keener style of driving, the same e-motor that’s operating in full-EV mode right now can be called upon to join forces with that ferocious twin-turbo V6 to deliver an extra 70kW of power and 225 Nm of torque on demand. I certainly won’t be needing it on this trip, but it’s nice to know it’s ready for action.
Eden Brewery
There are just three breweries in the world that can claim to produce a 16th-century beer known as kottbusser — and one of them is Eden Brewery. Visiting Eden is like being transported to a bar somewhere in North America, with its rustic wooden interior and communal seating among large silver beer fermenters.
There’s a style here for almost any beer lover. The Phoenix D Kottbusser is a must-try, says the owner, Jacob Newman, who hails from Texas but, after marrying an Australian, has settled in the Southern Highlands. “It’s a beer style that comes from Cottbus in Germany,” he explains. “That style of beer was really common in that town. In 1516, the ‘Reinheitsgebot’ — purity law — was signed into law, and that beer style [which uses additional ingredients] became extinct.” Of the three breweries left that make a kottbusser,
wo are in Colorado, “and there’s us”, says Newman with pride. “So it’s one of the rarest beer styles that exist, and we’re proud to be a part of carrying that torch forward.”
Just a sip will have to do for me, although it’s easy to imagine whiling away a sunny Southern Highlands afternoon over a keg-fresh kottbusser or two. “Beer is the great equaliser,” Newman says. “If you have a wine with your boss, it’s still formal. But not beer.”
There’s a respect here for tradition and heritage, but also a desire to not simply follow the pack — to innovate and take customers on a journey. Sure, it’s a stretch to compare a small brewery in Mittagong to a supercar maker from Woking in England, but I can see the same sort of thinking at play in the Artura, which offers a window to a future where high performance and environmental awareness don’t have to be mutually exclusive concepts.
1/19 Cavendish Street, Mittagong
0422 366 531
Opens 11am, Wednesday to Sunday
edenbrewery.beer
There are tempting lunch options in every one of the townships that dot the Highlands but, following a tip, I’m heading back into bustling Bowral for lunch. On this short commute I’m struck by just how comfortable the Artura is to drive. It feels low and wide — a bit like a street luge, if I’m honest — but it’s actually no more difficult to drive than a standard sedan, which is undoubtedly a credit to its makers.
Bendooley Larder
Ten minutes out of Bowral is one of the region’s premier wineries, Bendooley Estate, but if you’re pressed for time or simply looking for a decent bite to eat, Bendooley Larder in the centre of town offers more than you might bargain for.
For a start, there’s the high-quality produce from its own paddocks, but also a prime selection of goods from around the district. Meanwhile, a lunchtime meal doesn’t disappoint, and the sun-dried tomato arancini with mozzarella comes highly recommended.
328 Bong Bong Street, Bowral
(02) 4868 8789;
opens 8.30am, Monday to Saturday; 9.30am Sunday
bendooleyestatelarder.com.au
Setting course towards the next stop at Exeter, I’m initially in electric-only mode as the Bowral town area recedes in the mirrors. With open road comes an opportunity to explore the second personality of the Artura — the one that’s capable of dispatching zero to 100 kilometres an hour in just three seconds. Or about the time it probably took you to read that sentence.
Select Sport mode and the silence of electric propulsion is abruptly broken as the internal combustion engine bursts into life. It feels as if some sort of vehicular adrenaline has begun seeping into the Artura’s mechanical veins. The once-docile hybrid powertrain, commanding a combined 515kW output, is tensed in anticipation. With a prod of the accelerator, the Artura surges forward. A beep indicates the ideal timing to upshift using the metal paddles. Crucially, though, a suite of F1-inspired electronics ensure its performance is delivered safely and securely.
It’s a mere glimpse of the car’s performance potential — well within posted speed limits — but it serves as a reminder of the race-bred technology underpinning the McLaren. For example, were there to be a racetrack on this journey, assistance would be rendered at higher speeds by the rear spoiler and diffuser, which are said to generate 50 kilograms of downforce, making the Artura even more sticky to the road.
Dawning Day Farms
After a gentle roll down the main street of charming Moss Vale, I arrive at Dawning Day Farms on the outskirts of Exeter, where co-owner Michael Archer has wines and produce to sample, and tales to tell.
First, though, I make sure the Artura’s needs are met by means of a simple connection to the property’s onsite Chargefox public charging station. By the time I’m ready to leave, the clever McLaren’s onboard battery is full, and this plug-in hybrid will be set to hit the road once again.
Of Archer’s many stories, the moral of one is clear: when life gives you bushfires, make gin. “Not everything goes to plan when you’re reliant on the weather,” he begins. “In 2020, we had our first harvest of wine grapes off the property, and that unfortunately was affected by bushfires.” The smoke got into the skins of the grapes, he says. “Tasting them, you’d think they’re OK, but by the time you’ve fermented the grapes and turned them into wine, it was a bit like licking an ashtra crossed with cheese-and-bacon balls. We were disappointed, but thought, ‘What can we do with this? We don’t want to waste our first crop.’ ” The answer, of course, was gin.
Today, Dawning Day’s seven lush acres include “about three under vine”, with planted varieties exhibiting a Gallic theme including chardonnay, pinot noir and gamay. “We feel like the climate here is conducive to that — it’s quite similar to Burgundy,” Archer says. “We’re a cool, elevated climate, even though we’re so close to Sydney.”
Walking into the thoughtfully designed cellar door, there’s the crackle of an open fire — perfect conditions for sampling red wine, although with driving still to be done, it’s a sip-and-spit effort for me. The lagrein, a red grape variety native to South Tyrol in Italy, is my pick.
25 Rockleigh Road, Exeter
0401 715 772;
Opens 11am Friday and Saturday; 1pm Sunday; bookings essential
dawningday.com.au
There is, of course, more to the Southern Highlands than what you can taste or buy, and no trip would be complete without absorbing its arresting landscape at close quarters — in my case, with the Artura in all-but-silent EV mode to fully appreciate the sounds of nature around me as I travel.
Experience Nature
It’s time to catch up with Amanda Fry of Experience Nature, a luxury tour operator that creates bespoke itineraries for Southern Highlands visitors. Originally from Sydney, Fry is a convert to the Highlands’ laidback lifestyle and natural assets, and a passionate advocate for the region. “Sydneysiders tend to purchase here — more so than the Hunter [region] or Blue Mountains — because you’ve got lifestyle, activity and proximity,” she says.
On the leisurely walk to spy Fitzroy Falls, it’s easy to imagine a quaint trickle of water down a ferny escarpment. Instead, a viewing platform commands an open valley lined by vertical cliffs, with sprawling views almost to the horizon, while a spectacular waterfall plunges more than 80 metres into the bush below.
Fry can tailor up to 40 different natural experiences to suit her clients’ needs — all you have to do is ask. She’s a born storyteller and I walk away with a much better understanding of the nature and uniqueness of this incredible region.
0418 262 282;
experiencenature.au
Burrawang House
The Southern Highlands is rich not just in nature but also in accommodation options, from quaint cottages hailing from another era to pristine homesteads mixing the best of the past and present. Fitting neatly into the latter category is Burrawang House, on the outskirts of the village of the same name that was established in 1865. To savour the Highlands in a style befitting the journey of a supercar of the McLaren’s outstanding calibre, look no further than this light-filled five-bedroom gem.
The bright exterior lends a Hamptons-esque feel, and also on the one-acre property are a nine-metre pool, spa, games room and even a small soccer field. In the diffuse late afternoon light, the Artura looks more four-wheeled sculpture than car, and exceptionally at home on the packed gravel driveway. There are a few moments to reflect on the Artura’s exterior design language, where form and function combine in a perfectly choreographed dance. Minimal, yet muscular; restrained, yet oozing presence. This is a car that’s hard to take your eyes off.
Equally captivating is Burrawang House, which, like the McLaren, has plenty of substance to back up the classically elegant facade. Its decadent interior includes a 4.75-metre raked ceiling, and the sight of an 18th-century Belgian mantel signals the time has come to relax and pour a generous glass of one of the day’s purchases.
There are four bedrooms each equipped with a king-sized bed — including an indulgently large master with ensuite, featuring a shower nook — plus a bunk room with eight beds, and five luxuriously appointed bathrooms, one with an oversized stone bath. An enormous kitchen with twin ovens sits beside a long oak dining table, making Burrawang House not only a great base for exploring the Highlands, but also a hub for entertaining.
Burrawang, New South Wales
Cost: from $3,600 (two night minimum)
0419 986 528; [email protected]
burrawanghouse.com.au
There’s so much more to explore in the Southern Highlands. I’d dearly love to have more time exploring its many culinary and natural delights, in the company of a car that offers plenty of food for thought. Some might argue that an SUV rather a supercar should be the chariot of choice for such an endeavour, but the McLaren Artura adds another element to the journey with its visual presence, joyful driving experience and the addition of a plug-in hybrid drivetrain that provides a tantalising glimpse of the road that lies ahead for cars of its exceptional ilk.
Disclosure: McLaren and T Australia do not condone drinking and driving. While we enjoyed responsibly sampling some of the delightful offerings at Eden Brewery in the Southern Highlands, we emphasise the importance of making safe choices. If you choose to indulge in alcoholic beverages, please ensure you have a designated driver or alternative transportation arranged. Your safety and the safety of others on the road is our top priority.
HIGHLANDS LIFE”
