All Salt is Not Created Equal

From classic iodised to amethyst-hued pepper berry-flavoured flakes from the wilds of Tasmania, the nation’s fine grains go head-to-head.

Article by Besha Rodell

"I am dedicated to replacing more of my pantry with Australian items, and this country is rich in gourmet salts," says Besha Rodell. Photograph by Edward Urrutia. Styled by Anna Lavdaras.

Before we go any further, I should tell you that I am the sort of person who will spend $30 on a tub of Maldon salt at Costco when there is a perfectly good package of table salt — of equal weight — available for $3. It’s not that I have wads of cash to throw around, it’s just that I find the act of cooking deeply tactile and even sensuous, and the idea of having an unending supply of Maldon’s slate-y, flakey grit at my fingertips is irresistible. But I am also dedicated to replacing more of my pantry with Australian items, and this country is rich in gourmet salts. We took a bunch of brands for a test run and I’m happy to report that my giant tub of Maldon will be sitting unused for quite some time. Here’s a sampling of my favourites.

Olsson’s Marine Mineral Fine Grey Salt, $7 for 250 grams, olssons.com.au. Photograph by Edward Urrutia. Styled by Anna Lavdaras.
Kodu The Big Smoke Salt Gift Set, $69.95 for a set of five 70-gram jars, mykodu.com. Photograph by Edward Urrutia. Styled by Anna Lavdaras.

Olsson’s Marine Mineral Fine Grey Salt

The makers claim to be the oldest family-owned and operated sea salt company in Australia, having been in business since 1948, and they produce everything from iodised table salt (in the classic conical white plastic) to salt infused with black truffles in beautiful stoneware jars. Olsson’s Marine Mineral Fine Grey Salt contains traces of minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, manganese and iodine, giving it a complex and, yes, minerally flavour. Its fine, white-sandlike texture means it’s easy to use too much, but it is especially lovely on fresh homegrown tomatoes and other salady things. $7 for 250 grams, olssons.com.au

Kodu: The Big Smoke Sea Salt Gift Set

I’ll admit I was prepared to hate these flavoured salts from Kodu, which are infused with smoke, wine, charcoal and more. But each salt in this attractive gift set has its own personality and none taste artificial or harsh or overwhelming. The smoky Senior Merlot salt, with its lightly sweet umami, worked particularly well on beef tartare and while the Pepperwood salt reeked of an actual campfire, its smoky taste was quite subtle. The Mariachi smoked chilli salt used on the rim of a bloody Mary or margarita is a game-changer, and the rosemary-rich Bushman is getting rubbed all over my next roast chook. $69.95 for a set of five 70-gram jars, mykodu.com

Mount Zero Pink Lake Set, $5.60 for 200 grams, mountzeroolives.com. Photograph by Edward Urrutia. Styled by Anna Lavdaras.
The Salt Box, $12.95 for one kilogram, thesaltbox.com.au. Photograph by Edward Urrutia. Styled by Anna Lavdaras.

Mount Zero Pink Lake Salt

About 50 kilometres from the Mount Zero olive grove in western Victoria, there is a lake that’s fed by natural salt aquifers. In the summertime, the lake dries out and the lakebed reveals a rosy layer of salt. Mount Zero works with the Barengi Gadjin Land Council, which represents the lake’s traditional owners, to harvest a small amount of the salt each year. This salt was perhaps my favourite as an all-round table salt, with its bright, light character that works well for finishing dishes and enhancing the natural flavour of vegetables and fish. It lacks the sharpness of more processed salts and varies in colour from blush to a barely perceptible creamy pink. This salt is high in minerals but low in iodine — Mount Zero produces a version with sea kelp for those wanting an iodised version. $5.60 for 200 grams, mountzeroolives.com

The Salt Box Australian Sea Salt

The bargain of the bunch, this salt harvested from the Spencer Gulf in South Australia is what I’ll have next to my stove for the next few months. More a cooking salt than a table salt, its large granules make it perfect for brining, pickling and adding to stews and sauces. This is a straightforward replacement for your basic salts but with the added satisfaction of knowing there are no additives and it is sourced here in Australia. $12.95 for one kilogram, thesaltbox.com.au

Tasman Sea Salt, $9.95 for 80 grams, tasmanseasalt.com Photograph by Edward Urrutia. Styled by Anna Lavdaras.
Detail of Tasman Sea Salt, tasmanseasalt.com Photograph by Edward Urrutia. Styled by Anna Lavdaras.

Tasman Sea Salt with Wakame Seaweed and Pepper Berry

Located on the east coast of Tasmania, this small company makes a variety of salts, all harvested from the Tasman Sea. It sells a plain version, but I was intrigued by two of its speciality flavours, wakame seaweed and pepper berry. The wakame seaweed has just a whiff of the ocean hidden in its powdery flakes, plus the grounding element of umami that seaweed is known for. Unsurprisingly, it was especially good on fresh raw fish. The pepper berry is the most visually stunning of all the salts I tried, its deep purple colour giving it the look of smashed amethyst shards. Its lightly perfumed, peppery flavour makes it perfect for red meats or eggs on toast. $9.95 for 80 grams, tasmanseasalt.com