How Hermès Turned a Dog Collar Into a Bag

This cabochon-accented accessory nods to the brand’s animal-focused roots.

Article by Lindsay Talbot

A band similar to an early Hermès dog collar encircles the house’s new Mini Médor Crin bag. Price on request, (800) 441-4488. Still life by Sharon Radisch. Set design by Victoria Petro-Conroy.

In 1821, a 20-year-old innkeeper’s son named Thierry Hermès, who grew up in the German textile town of Krefeld, moved to France’s Normandy region and apprenticed as a saddler. Eleven years later, he opened his own workshop in Paris, where he sold harnesses, bridles and saddles crafted with a stitch that can only be done by hand. After the advent of the automobile, Thierry’s grandson Émile-Maurice Hermès expanded the company’s offerings to include driving accessories and luggage trunks, as well as clocks and wristwatches with leather casings and straps. In 1923, the house even introduced a collection of dog collars, which were elaborately decorated with leather studs, metal looped rings and fringed trimmings. They became so popular that women began wearing them as belts; as the story goes, the French couturier Marie Callot Gerber, whose dogs wore the collars, commissioned Hermès to reinterpret them as wrist cuffs.

A 1923 presentation of Hermès dog collars
A 1923 presentation of Hermès dog collars. Photograph courtesy of © Hermès.

Now, Hermès is looking back to those archival collars with the launch of its new Mini Médor Crin bag. Cinched like a sheaf of wheat, the tote is layered with blond horsehair shaped by a master wigmaker, while palladium-finished metal cabochons accent its calfskin belt. (It also comes in a black version with golden pyramid studs.) With its sensible leather strap and fringelike adornment recalling a flapper’s dress, the carryall encapsulates the Roaring Twenties while also paying homage to the brand’s equestrian roots: after all, as the company has noted, its first client was a horse.

This is an extract from an article that appears in print in our eighteenth edition of T Australia with the headline: “First of its Kind / Last of its Kind”