Even for those in fashion, the fashion calendar is rather challenging to keep pace with. The year commences with men’s fashion weeks in Milan then Paris, followed by the autumn/winter season in February and March, and by the time you’ve fully digested the trends to keep abreast of, the men’s spring/summer season is upon you. It can feel dizzying, but it provides ample fodder for sartorial inspiration, and some excellent incentives to save for.
This latest menswear season was no exception. Both Pitti Uomo and Paris men’s fashion week saw stellar collections presented by the industry’s heavyweights, along with showrooms and smaller presentations from promising emergent designers too. No show, however, was more hotly anticipated than Jonathon Anderson’s debut at Dior. His appointment at the maison across both its men’s and women’s departments, alongside his own brand JW Anderson and his ongoing collaboration with Uniqlo, makes Anderson the most prolific — and arguably hardest-working — designer in fashion. The collection was closely scrutinised but largely well-received, and marked the beginning of a refreshingly contemporary chapter in the maison’s history.
It was hardly the only show that generated buzz — or sparked a desire to shop. These are the standout pieces from the week’s biggest collections.
Look 11. Image courtesy of Prada.
A red trench from Prada
Muted hues were shaken awake by fruit bowl brights — tomato red, Granny Smith green, banana yellow. Mrs. Prada and her collaborator, Raf Simons traded the classic camel trench for a slightly boxy single-breasted style in a vibrant red hue.
Look 2. Image courtesy of Hèrmes.
A dainty silk scarf from Hèrmes
Ties are having a moment, but at Hèrmes, creative director Véronique Nichanian wondered what a summer version of the accessory might look like. Her conclusion? Silky, dainty scarves languidly knotted around the neck worn over white tank tops and blousy shirts buttoned to a deep-V.
Look 8. Image courtesy of Dior.
A cape from Dior
Leave it to Jonathon Anderson to reimagine Dior’s house codes with a hefty dose of whimsy. Case in point: the quilt-like capes, tied at the neck and delicately stitched with the original Dior logo revived by Anderson, worn with an embroidered waistcoat and straight leg jeans.
Look 17. Image: Instagram.com/commedesgarcons.
Box-pleat trousers from Comme des Garçons
Preppy pleated skirts have been doing the rounds in womenswear as of late, so what else to do, asks Rei Kawukubo, then reimagine them in pant form? Wide legs are made more interesting (but still wearable) with the addition of box pleats for a very Comme take on suiting.
Look 13. Image courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
A perfect striped shirt from Louis Vuitton
There are a handful of pieces everyone should own. A striped shirt is one such item, and few designers do a more perfect version than that designed by Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton. Short or long sleeve, fitted or boxy — whatever your preference, these are worth the investment.
Look 6. Image courtesy of Saint Laurent.
An impossibly broad-shouldered blazer from Saint Laurent
Power suits are back. The ’80s brand of gauche has been seeping back into the fashion zeitgeist, but there’s nothing gaudy about Saint Laurent’s audacious suiting. Oversized shoulders mean business, while the tucked-in tie was a move of genius styling.
Look 100. Image: Instagram.com/giorgioarmani.
Ultra-drapey suit pants from Giorgio Armani
Speaking of suits, Giorgio Armani has always been the master of them. Taking cues from the brand’s ’90s versions, Mr. Armani’s languid suiting was fluid, its trousers cut slightly wider for more movement and an overall sense of insouciance.
Look 4. Image: Instagram.com/junyawatanabe.
A pair of bootleg jeans from Junya Watanabe
Call it the Kendrick Lamar effect, but the bootleg silhouette has returned with a vengeance. Few did it better than Junya Watanabe, whose acid-wash versions were a collision of the ’80s and the early 2000s.
Look 20. Image: Craig McDean via Instagram.com/sacaiofficial.
Barrel-leg shorts from Sacai
Master of outerwear, Sacai made a compelling case for dramatic proportions this summer season. Alongside its ballooning barrel-leg pants were cut-off-at-the-knee versions, worn with perfect leather jackets and knitted sweaters.
Look 21. Image courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Boxer-style high-tops from Dries Van Noten
Fisherman sandals were the footwear du jour, but Dries Van Noten built upon its slim-line sneakers with high-top versions in lolly pink and shamrock green that drew inspiration from traditional boxing boots.
