Patek Philippe’s first entirely new collection in 25 years, Cubitus, features a trio of square-shaped models, (from left) 5821A,
5822P and 5821AR. When Patek Philippe — reckoned by many to be one of the world’s greatest watchmakers — releases a new timepiece, people pay attention. When the brand releases its first entirely new collection in 25 years, it’s news of internet-breaking magnitude, at least for lovers of fine timepieces.
In October 2024, after weeks of ratcheting speculation, Patek Philippe finally unveiled its new collection, Cubitus, and the reaction was intense. Online pundits were quick to analyse every detail, vacillating between pros and cons with a fervour usually reserved for national sporting teams or Taylor Swift.
Why all the fuss? Patek Philippe is one of the few brands with real clout to move the needle when it comes to trends and tastes, perhaps thanks to its relatively conservative approach to marketing. It has traditionally distanced itself from trends, and doesn’t appoint celebrity ambassadors to promote the brand.
At the most fundamental level, Cubitus offers familiar features in a new form. The overall look and feel of the new design is closely tied to that of Patek Philippe’s coveted sports watch, the Nautilus. With its prominent horizontally striped dial and integrated bracelet, not to mention the design of the broad, satin-brushed bezel, the family resemblance is unmissable.
The difference is in the shape. The 45-millimetre case is basically a square — one of watchmaking’s less common forms. Square watches wear large on the wrist, so this geometry is perhaps the most remarkable feature of the Cubitus.
As for the models, there are currently three on offer. A fully stainless steel version has a subtle green dial that evokes the olive-hued face of the final reference 5711 Nautilus from 2021. A steel and rose gold model with a matching bracelet and a vibrant blue dial makes more of a statement. Finally, there’s reference 5822P, the complicated belle of the ball. This model is a little different from its siblings; most obviously, it comes on a navy blue composite strap, giving some serious dressed-down energy to what is otherwise a very grown-up watch. It’s powered by a brand new movement with a swathe of calendar complications, including a brand new patented grand date display. Lastly, the case in this reference is platinum. Patek Philippe has made a tradition of setting a single diamond into its platinum cases at the 6 o’clock mark, and in a nod to the unusual geometry of Cubitus, the 5822P’s diamond is a baguette cut.
Cubitus speaks to the continued evolution of the luxury sports watch, perhaps the single most dominant trend over the past generation. It also signifies that Patek Philippe is recognising the changing nature of its customer base. Cubitus, while still essentially conservative, is firmly aimed at a younger (but still well-heeled) crowd.
