When Sushil Aryal relocated from Nepal to Australia in 2007, it was with the intention of improving his English and to continue his studies (he already had an engineering degree under his belt by this point). To make money he took a job as a kitchen hand at Bondi’s Brown Sugar restaurant. “One day, one of the chefs was sick, and my head chef Neil gave me an opportunity to cook,” recalls Aryal. “Apparently I was better than the chef who was currently working. It made me feel good and I decided I would become a chef and started going to TAFE.”
After a few years by Sydney’s beaches Aryal moved to Melbourne for a stint at Flinders Lane’s iconic Cumulus Inc, where he worked his way up to sous chef. He spent years honing his craft at fellow Melbourne hotspots including Spice Temple at Crown, Vue de Monde and Cutler & Co. (even launching his own restaurant, Moon Under Water, at The Builders Arms Hotel).
More recently, Aryal helmed Commune Group as head chef, working across Tokyo Bird and Firebird. Today, you’ll find him in the kitchen at the newly opened Miss Pearl Bar and Dining – the latest addition to Melbourne’s Southbank Theatre precinct and operated by The Fresh Collective. Offering locals and theatre-goers an Asian-influenced dining experience inspired by the flavours of Japan, Thailand and Vietnam.
Split across snacks, small and large plates, sides and a bar menu, the menu includes moreish bites such as crispy tofu with banana blossom, fried yuba and tamarind; miso-roasted cauliflower with lemongrass sate and crisp soybean, and larger dishes such as Jack’s Creek flat iron steak with shio kombu butter and togarashi fries, and market fish with chickpeas.
Here, Aryal sits down with T Australia to talk about the new venture, how he unwinds after service, and shares his recipe for Miss Pearl’s crispy eggplant with Lao Gan ma chilli caramel.
On what drives him…
It’s a bit cliché but passion and love towards food. I have always enjoyed cooking or working in kitchen environment. Sometimes it’s hard but I need to make sure I’m motivating and leading the team well.
On unwinding after service…
10 years ago, it would be a cold glass of beer but nowadays if I finish early, I go home and spend some time with my wife and 2 children. If I finish late then a glass of whisky and some good music.
On his favourite ingredients…
Murray Cod fish is my best thing to cook at the moment. It’s quite sensational. Very versatile. It has a really good amount of fat which makes it really moist even if you overcook it. Vegetable wise I have to say purple sprouting broccoli which is in season at the moment and they taste amazing. It’s hard to find in supermarket but I normally go to the farmers market on Sunday to buy some.
On cooking at home…
My wife cooks more than me at home, to be honest, and I’m very glad she does that. Nowadays I cook breakfast for [the] kids and bake with them on Sundays.
On what excited him about his work…
I am most excited about collaborating and working towards something big— a common goal. Every day at work is an opportunity I have to contribute to the growth of the our restaurant and the company [The Fresh Collective]. This is what makes my day. It also has to be the team I work with. They are exceptional bunch of people, and everyone is looking after each other. They definitely make my job lot easier.
On the other venues and chefs inspiring his work…
Has to be chef Josh Niland. He is already a “GOAT” in modern cooking. His restaurants St Peter and Fish Butchery are outstanding. He thinks on a different level and has a great concept which he works towards. I admire him the most at the moment.
Miss Pearl Bar and Dining’s Crispy Eggplant with Lao Gan Ma Chilli Caramel
Serves 6
Notes: You can buy kombu extract in a Japanese store. If you can’t find substitute kombu extract with soy bean paste which can be found easily on Asian grocer. Substitute light soy sauce with gluten free soy or tamari if you are gluten intolerant.
Ingredients for eggplant
3 whole large eggplants
50g sesame seeds
1 bunch chives
200g rice flour
200ml soda water (or sparkling water)
Method
Trim all three sides off the eggplant lengthways, and cut into long batons each depending on size of eggplant. You will normally get about nine pieces from one whole eggplant.
Sprinkle some salt lightly on eggplant and leave it for 30 minutes. Dry with paper towel. (Salt draws out the moisture from eggplant which will make eggplant more crispy when cooking.)
Ingredients for Lao Gan ma chilli caramel
500g sugar
250ml water
250ml red vinegar
1 jar crispy chilli Lao Gan ma
50ml kombu extract
60ml light soy sauce
Method
Strain oil from a crispy chilli jar and separate oil and chilli. Put to one side.
Put all ingredients in a pot and put on medium heat.
Once it starts boiling, reduce the heat. Cook for about 20 minutes or until it starts thickening up. You will know when it’s ready if the sauce coats the back of the spoon. You want a caramel consistency.
Ingredients for eggplant
3 whole large eggplants
50g sesame seeds
1 bunch chives
200g rice flour
200ml soda water (or sparkling water)
Method
Trim all three sides off the eggplant lengthways, and cut into long batons each depending on size of eggplant. You will normally get about nine pieces from one whole eggplant.
Sprinkle some salt lightly on eggplant and leave it for 30 minutes. Dry with paper towel. (Salt draws out the moisture from eggplant which will make eggplant more crispy when cooking.)
Ingredients for eggplant frying batter
200g rice flour
200ml sparkling water or soda water
Method
Heat about one litre of vegetable oil in a shallow pot and bring it up to 180-degrees.
While you wait for oil to heat up, mix rice flour and soda water until well combined. Make sure there are no lumps.
Dust eggplant in rice flour and then toss in the batter.
Deep Fry at 180-degrees until golden brown (approx. four minutes)
Toss with the caramel sauce until it coats eggplant completely. Garnish with chopped chives and sesame seeds.