The misty, forested slopes of the Sierra Madre del Sur and Sierra Norte mountain ranges and mangrove-lined Pacific coast of Oaxaca, Mexico, are home to mezcal, one of the world’s oldest spirits. Arguably no drink is more closely tied to a place and its people than this, and none is as trendy in the cocktail and spirits world right now. It seems impossible to walk into a high-end bar without finding a mezcal cocktail on the list, and according to recent industry sales data it’s one of the fastest-growing spirits categories in the world. So what is this mysterious, beautiful drink?
Mezcal, like tequila, is made from the fermented juice of the agave plant. But mezcal predates tequila by hundreds of years and has a much broader range of flavours and styles. The relationship between tequila and mezcal is much like that of Cognac and brandy. Cognac is a type of brandy, made from specific grape varieties in a specific way and in a specific region in France. Tequila, too, is a sort of sub-category of mezcal made from a specific species of agave, in a specific style, in a specific region of Mexico.
Tequila also tends to be more refined in flavour than mezcal, which is instead rustic and full-flavoured, often produced by small, independent distilleries using centuries-old techniques. And while tequila must be produced exclusively from the blue agave plant, there are about 30 different species of agave used to make mezcal, many of them wild. Once harvested, these agaves are usually roasted in earthen pits (unlike tequila, which uses steam ovens), giving the spirit an earthy and sometimes smoky flavour. Which brings up a couple of myths worth dispelling.

Firstly, not all mezcal is smoky. The flavour profiles of mezcal can be sweet, mineral, grassy, fruity, peppery, vegetal and incredibly complex — a literal distillation of the landscape of Oaxaca that’s well worth exploring. If you don’t like smoky flavours, just say so at the bar or bottle shop, and well-educated staff should be able to point you in the right direction.
Secondly, some cheap mezcal brands marketed to tourists do include a “worm” in the bottle, the larva of the Comadia redtenbacheri moth. Avoid these brands. For a more traditional experience, try your mezcal with a slice of orange dipped in sal de gusano — a spiced salt made with said larvae that has been dried and ground into a powder.
Legally, mezcal is broken down into three categories: mezcal, mezcal artesanal and mezcal ancestral. The first is the most industrial, allowing the use of modern equipment to produce the spirit efficiently and en masse. The artesanal (artisanal) category prohibits the use of most modern equipment but allows mechanical shredders and copper pot stills. Mezcal ancestral production is limited to pre-industrial tools and processes like roasting the agave in pit ovens, and no copper or stainless steel can be used for fermenting and distilling. But there are good and bad examples in all three categories, so they should not necessarily be used as a guide to quality.
Good mezcal is painstakingly made by skilled mezcaleros who have often honed their craft over generations, so it’s worth spending more on the good stuff. Think of it like the Mexican equivalent of single malt whisky — you get what you pay for.
To start your mezcal adventure, visit one of the excellent bars around Australia focusing on agave spirits and cocktails such as Mesa Verde or Taquito in Melbourne, Cantina OK! and Centro 86 in Sydney, or La Condesa in Perth.
Ivy Mix’s False Alarm
This bright, refreshing and easy-to-make cocktail has at its heart pisco, an unaged grape brandy popular in Peru and Chile and most famous for being the main ingredient in the pisco sour.
Ingredients
30ml pisco (try a Peruvian brand like Cuatro G’s)
15ml fresh lemon juice
15ml raspberry syrup
10ml Campari
60ml brut sparkling wine
3 raspberries
Method
Add all the ingredients except the wine and raspberries to a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake hard for 10 seconds, then strain into a wine glass. Fill the glass with fresh ice, top up with sparkling wine and garnish with raspberries.

Mesa Verde’s Mezcal Martini
Mesa Verde in Melbourne is one of the best places to dip your toe in the mezcal waters (or dive in head first). To make this drink, the bar infuses mezcal with oyster shells for two weeks and serves the cocktail with a freshly shucked oyster. You can keep it simple by forgoing the infusion and just using a good quality, mineral-forward mezcal such as Nuestra Soledad Lachigui (available at topshelftequila.com.au). The below makes a half-serve like you’ll get at the bar, or you can scale it up for home.
Ingredients
30ml mezcal
10ml Dolin Blanc or other off-dry white vermouth
Method
Add the mezcal and vermouth to a mixing glass, fill with ice and stir until chilled and diluted. Pour into a chilled martini glass and garnish with a twist of grapefruit peel.
PassionFruit Caipirinha
If you’ve ever been to Brazil, you’ll know the joy of drinking a freshly made caipirinha from one of the many street stalls that sell them. The national drink of Latin America’s most populous country is made with cachaça (pronounced ka-SHA-sa), a type of rum made from fresh sugarcane juice. This version includes passionfruit for extra tropical tang.
Ingredients
60ml cachaça (try Sagatiba)
1 whole fresh lime, cut into quarters
2 tablespoons raw or brown sugar
Flesh of one passionfruit
Method
Put the lime pieces in a cocktail shaker, then add the sugar. With a muddling stick or the handle of a wooden spoon, mash the limes with slow, even pressure to release their juice. Add the passionfruit and cachaça. Fill the shaker with ice, close, and shake hard for 10 seconds. Open the shaker, empty the entire contents into a large tumbler and enjoy.