Australia’s LBD Isn’t What You Think

How local designers are reinventing the little black dress.

Article by Karen Leong

LBD courtney zhengFrom left, imagery courtesy of Reformation, Sir., Courtney Zheng and L’idee Woman. All below imagery courtesy of the brands.

The little black dress is hardly a new concept, though it is a garment steeped in history. Its roots stretch back to Coco Chanel in the 1920s, when the atelier house was after a silhouette of many versatilities. The designer also recast the colour black from mourning regalia to a chic, understated option that transcended daytime and evening wear.

On Australian shores, the silhouette extends to a wider remit. There’s occasional offerings for elevated night outs, or in-between minis that toe the line between business casual or a midday outing. Pleats, ruffles, and ruching galore, there’s currently no shortage of styles from local designers such as Courtney Zheng and Sir. If you’re after breathability and stretch cotton, Assembly Label has crafted styles for mobility as well as function. Looking for a label further afield? There’s plenty of those as well.

If you’re unsure where to begin, T Australia editors have rounded up the best variety of little black dresses here below.

The Work, and Wardrobe, Is Mysterious and Important

Dress like your innie.

Article by Karen Leong

SeverancePhotograph courtesy of Apple TV+.

Form and Precision Takes Aim at Paris Fashion Week

At Paris Fashion Week, structure is the byline, and Miu Miu and Vivienne Westwood are the sell.

Article by Karen Leong

PFW Review AW 25From left: Vivienne Westwood AW 25; Rick Owens AW 25. Photographs courtesy of the brands.

In a city like Paris, fashion is as much about ideas as it is aesthetics, and each season reveals a dialogue between designers, revealing shared preoccupations that transcend individual houses. This year, taut silhouettes took centre stage, reinforcing the industry’s enduring fascination with precision and form. Some, like Rick Owens, were bound by house codes of sculptural display, while others (see: the Miuccia camp) continued to revisit structure in feminine forms.

Christian Dior

Case in point: Dior’s corset-laden presentation brought life back to boning and structure. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection summoned the spirit of Virginia Woolf’s Orlando – replete with crinoline, white-crimped collars, velvet jacquards and lace. Chiuri’s Dior has always been dreamy, but this time it was lanced with starched hats, stiff-ended materials, and a dosing of gender nonconformity. Autumn winter 25 extended the boldness of Woolf’s text through the fabric story told at Dior. “Women at the beginning of the last century – they were breaking the rules, wearing men’s clothes, and men too,” Chiuri said before the show, taking inspiration from their ever-fluctuating wardrobes to design her own. “To be transversal in our day today is very important.” And the silhouettes that took charge were assured no matter the wearer.

Christian Dior pfw aw 25

Vivienne Westwood

Andreas Konthaler’s 30-year residency continued with 56 Westwood tailored looks on the sixth day of Paris Fashion Week. Models were fitted in sharp, plaid creases, styled in neckties that swept the floor. In memory of his late partner, Konthaler’s Westwood also celebrated hats: vast, rigid constructions somewhere between a pork pie hat and a fedora.

Velvet and tulle rounded out shoulders with padding. Trench coats pulled gravity to the floor. The show notes declared “There’s nothing sexier than a suit!”, and Konthaler integrated this ethos by revising the form with adornment. Never precocious, everything remained artful with the Westwood sentimentalities still at the fore of the presentation.

Vivienne Westwood paris fashion week AW 25

Miu Miu

Since 1993, Miu Miu has been Miuccia Prada’s girlish, younger offshoot. At root of both of Mrs Prada labels, however, is a spirit of femininity that anchors women in the modern age of dress. This year’s display was named ‘Femininities’, and proved the very same. Brooches, knee-high socks paired with flat brogues, riding hats and buttery sweaters provided a textural depiction of womanhood in its cusping stage – the transitions between girl and woman interweaving every aspect of the show.

At the Palais D’lena, hemlines consistently reached the knee – all but erasing the memory of those infamous Miu Miu miniskirts. Though the garments remained rich in narrative, structure took on new dimensions with fur accessories and sleek cloche hats atop polished, flyaway-free hair. For the women Mrs Prada dresses, structure is a lifeline to the past to reprise for today.

Miu Miu paris fashion week AW 25

Rick Owens

At ‘Concordians’, Rick Owens has ascended to his final form, whatever that may be. The high concept was signature black, pleating which skirts the flow of logic and textured leather. The show was an isolationist pit where tautly made looks emerged from a white-shrouded haze.

The collection was inspired by Owens’ early years living in the Italian town of Concordia, where form would begin to crop up through his designs. Asymmetry wound its way back into the collection, as did hyperstylised draping and deconstructed gowns. Only this time, skin bared out from punctured holes. Everything echoed the Rick Owens we know: dark, brutal, sharply wielded.

Rick Owens paris fashion week AW 25

Best on Field: The Esky as an Art Form

No longer relegated to the car boot or garage, Fieldbar have crafted a cooler box artful enough for display.

Article by Victoria Pearson

fieldbar esky_1The Fieldbar Ice Box in Bazaruto Blue. Photograph courtesy of the brand.

For many Australians, the esky is a holiday essential – a purely functional object, thrown into the back of the car, dragged onto the sand, or set beside a picnic blanket. It’s rarely something considered beyond its ability to keep drinks cold. But South African brand Fieldbar is rethinking its design, positioning the esky as something both stylish and built to last.

Handmade in Cape Town, the Fieldbar Drinks Box is crafted by artisans over the course of a week, with an emphasis on durability, thermal performance, and sustainability. Weighing just 1.8kg, it’s designed to be lightweight but strong enough to support up to 120kg. Its 10-litre capacity is compact but efficient, able to hold three bottles of wine, two bottles of Champagne, or ten cans.

While the aesthetics set it apart – available in muted, retro-inspired colours with a sleek, minimalist design – the company also promotes a sustainable approach to production. The Drinks Box is made up of 58 separate components, each of which can be removed, repaired, or replaced. A five-year workmanship warranty is offered, alongside a recycling and repair service that aims to extend the product’s lifespan. From $249, fieldbar.com.

fieldbar esky_3
The Fieldbar Ice Box in Safari White. Photograph courtesy of the brand.
fieldbar esky_2
The Fieldbar Ice Box in Sea Boat Blue. Photograph courtesy of the brand.

With Pat McGrath at the Fore, La Beauté launches at Louis Vuitton

The latest line from Louis Vuitton is the next to join the beauty pantheon.

Article by Karen Leong

LV BeautePhotograph courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

The next house to make its mark in beauty might be the most pivotal one yet. 

Louis Vuitton has debuted the launch of their beauty line La Beauté Louis Vuitton. The new cosmetics range will be helmed by creative director Dame Pat McGrath DBE, who is famed for her illustrious career in the beauty industry. 

From its inception, the house’s legacy integrates beauty into its perspective. Every handbag is engineered for women and their need to carry daily essentials. In tandem, the Louis Vuitton design boasts a fleet of luxurious compacts and perfumes, complete with vanity cases intended for the transport of beauty products. The archives date back to 1925 – where a toiletry case was created for Polish composer Jan Paderewski. 

 With a release slated for the autumn months ahead, the unveiling of La Beauté Louis Vuitton commemorates the brand’s ongoing commitment to elevated beauty and innovation. 

McGrath, who is one of the most influential makeup artist in the world, has been excited by the communion, saying, “Working backstage for over 20 years at Louis Vuitton fashion shows, I am thrilled to now play such a key role in the launch of La Beauté Louis Vuitton, which is the result of extraordinary craftmanship, creativity and innovation. The beauty universe is about so much more than just product, and what we are creating here will unlock a new level in luxury beauty.” 

As the the latest creative director of Cosmetics at  La Beauté Louis Vuitton, McGrath boasts an extensive repertoire in the creative world. She holds the title as the first and only makeup artist ever to receive the title of ‘Dame’ in 2021 from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. She is also an established member of the Order of the British Empire. McGrath will be responsible for vaulting the House’s beauty codes into a new landscape. 

While information regarding the product line continues to unfold, the evolution of the Louis Vuitton universe earmarks a natural, expansive progression for the house.

The Bliss of Wearing Butter Yellow

Charisma, positivity and warmth are traits that fans attribute to the color, which has been on the ascent.

Article by Misty White Sidell

butter yellow fashionCharisma, positivity and warmth are traits that fans attribute to the colour butter yellow, which has been on the ascent. Photograph by Nina Westervelt/The New York Times.

Butter yellow has been applied to a wide spread of items lately: cocktail dresses, jeans, jackets, hair clips, handbags and stand mixers. It has been slathered onto the walls of restaurants and home kitchens, and has oozed onto red carpets and the stages of major pop-music tours.

Like the dairy product the colour is named for, butter yellow ranges in tone from golden to almost white. And it has claimed the attention — not to mention the dollars — of a growing number of people.

“It will be the fashion colour for the spring season,” said Jodi Kahn, the vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus. This spring, the department store went all-in on butter yellow, offering it in the form of items like Alaïa sunglasses, Vince sneakers and basketball-style shorts by Dries Van Noten.

Kahn said the colour’s biggest selling point was its mood-lifting property. Butter yellow “has a bit of positivity and warmth,” she said, adding that it goes well with many neutral tones — white, navy, brown — that tend to populate wardrobes.

After being adopted by high-end labels like Jacquemus and Auralee, the colour has gone on to infiltrate the offerings of brands across the pricing spectrum.

Mass retailers like the Gap, Banana Republic and Abercrombie & Fitch are selling butter yellow clothing, as are independent brands based in various cities, such as Rachel Comey in New York, High Sport in Los Angeles and Cecilie Telle in London. Contemporary labels like Tory Burch and Simkhai have also embraced it, and brands like Bottega Veneta and Chloé are among those that have kept the colour in the luxury space.

Butter yellow items on the runways at the fall 2025 fashion shows of Gucci, Marni, Versace and Jil Sander late last month suggested that interest in the sunny tone would not melt away soon.

Harling Ross Anton, 33, a writer who focuses on fashion and style, has long evangelised the merits of wearing butter yellow: In 2018, she posted a photo of herself in a monochromatic pale yellow outfit on Instagram and, in the caption, described it as a “stick of butter” aesthetic.

While the colour has become more mainstream, it has not deterred Ross Anton’s interest in dressing like a block of Land O’Lakes. “There is a charisma to it,” she said.

Cynthia Erivo wore a Jacquemus ensemble in the colour to an Oscar party last Friday and, two days later, Timothée Chalamet coated himself in a butter yellow Givenchy suit at the awards ceremony itself. Other celebrities who have embraced the colour include singer Sabrina Carpenter, whose wardrobe for her Short n’ Sweet tour included several buttery lingerie-inspired looks, many of which were heavily embellished with rhinestones.

Compared with other yellows like mustard or neon, butter yellow has wider appeal, said Tina Burgos, 52, the owner of Covet + Lou, a boutique in Newton, Massachusetts. That is because the colour is “more subdued and works on more skin tones,” Burgos said.

The butter yellow items at her store include Mary Jane wedge shoes by Rachel Comey; cashmere sweaters by Demylee, a knitwear brand in New York; and baubles like beaded key chains.

Jake & Jones, a boutique in Santa Barbara, California, sells a similarly eclectic assortment of butter yellow products. Baggu shoulder bags, Cawley silk trapeze dresses and quirky boxy jackets by Eleph, a Dutch label, are among them.

Jennifer Steinwurtzel, 44, the owner of Jake & Jones, said she first noticed butter yellow blossoming in Scandinavian style capitals such as Copenhagen, Denmark, where brands were offering sunny clothing as an antidote to long, dark winters. A sign to her that butter yellow’s popularity had reached a new saturation point was when one of her employees renovated a kitchen in the colour last year.

As butter yellow has proliferated in fashion, it has also bubbled up in the culinary world. In February, KitchenAid named “butter” its colour of the year and released a stand mixer in the shade for the occasion. In January, the restaurant Cafe Commerce opened on the Upper East Side of Manhattan with a pale yellow dining room.

Cafe Commerce’s chef-owner, Harold Moore, 51, said the colour he chose for the restaurant — a soft yellow called “saffron” from Fine Paints of Europe, which sells 2.5-liter cans for $175 — reflected a cozy, flattering light. He used the same colour in his former restaurant Commerce, which closed in 2015, he added.

“You want people to be comfortable and you want them to look good — those two things come together in that yellow tint,” Moore said.

Chef Molly Baz, 36, became associated with the colour after hosting YouTube cooking shows watched by millions in the butter yellow kitchen of her home in Altadena, California. She said she had been tagged in numerous posts on Instagram by people who had renovated their kitchens in the same colour.

Baz, whose home was destroyed in the Los Angeles wildfires, called butter yellow “playful, cheery and inviting,” adding: “It made you want to eat.” But she characterised her interest in it as a moment in time.“We will, in all likelihood, embrace a new colour story in this next chapter in which we rebuild and leave the butter kitchen as a marker of a truly glorious past,” she said.