A High-Drama Gemstone With an Almost Supernatural Iridescence

Opals light up pendant necklaces, drop earrings, statement bracelets and cocktail rings.

Article by T Australia

OPALS_4From left: Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, vancleefarpels.com; and David Webb bracelet, davidwebb.com. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.
OPALS_1
From left: Tiffany & Co. ring, tiffany.com; Harwell Godfrey earrings, shopetcjewelry.com; and Oscar Heyman necklace. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.
OPALS_2
From left: Chopard necklace, chopard.com; and Buccellati ring. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.
OPALS_3
From left: David Yurman earrings, davidyurman.com; Monica Rich Kosann brooch, monicarichkosann.com; and Louis Vuitton high jewellery bracelet, louisvuitton.com. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.
This is an extract from an article that appears in print in our eleventh edition, Page 44 of T Australia with the headline: “Fire And Ice”

This Christmas, please send: pearls and stones, timeless timepieces and golden rings

T Australia’s holiday wish list includes Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Chanel.

Article by T Australia

Chanel 1932 High Jewellery Soleil Doré earrings, price on request, chanel.com. Image courtesy Chanel.
JEWELS_3
Gucci High Jewellery necklace, price on request, gucci.com. Image courtesy Gucci.
JEWELS_6
Cartier Clash ring, $19,500, cartier.com.au. Image courtesy Cartier.
JEWELS_9
Van Cleef & Arpels Sweet Alhambra watch, $43,000, vancleefarpels.com. Image courtesy Van Cleef & Arpels.
JEWELS_4
Chopard Red Carpet Collection earrings, price on request, (02) 8197 6007. Image courtesy Chopard.
JEWELS_11
Dior Rose des Vents necklace, $108,000, dior.com. Image courtesy Dior.
JEWELS_8
Chaumet Torsade de Chaumet ring, $40,290. Image courtesy Chaumet.
JEWELS_5
Chaumet Bee My Love bracelet, $16,170, (02) 9221 8777. Image courtesy Chaumet.
JEWELS_7
Piaget Joyful Sharing watch, $345,000, piaget.com. Image courtesy Piaget.
JEWELS_10
Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Edge Multi-Row Bypass bracelet, $114,000, tiffany.com.au. Image courtesy Tiffany & Co.
This is an extract from an article that appears in print in our tenth edition, Page 36 of T Australia with the headline: “My True Love”

Sweet Dreams are Made of These

Diamonds are the order of the day, as old-world charm and midcentury motifs meet with heavy metals.

Article by T Australia

Sweet Dreams 3Cartier necklace and ring (top), cartier.com.au, and Bulgari ring. Photography by Victoria Zschommler.
Sweet Dreams 1
Van Cleef & Arpels ring, vancleefarpels.com, Bulgari necklace, bulgari.com, and Chopard earrings, chopard.com. Photography by Victoria Zschommler.
Sweet Dreams 2
J Farren-Price ring and bracelet, jfarrenprice.com.au, and Canturi earrings, shop.canturi.com. Photography by Victoria Zschommler.
Sweet Dreams 4
J Farren-Price ring, Canturi bracelet, and Chopard earrings. Photography by Victoria Zschommler.
Sweet Dreams 5
From left: Chaumet ring, chaumet.com, Bulgari ring, and Canturi ring. Photography by Victoria Zschommler.
This is an extract from an article that appears in print in our eighth edition, Page 48 of T Australia with the headline: “Sweet Dreams”

The Iconic Handbag Recast as Precious Jewellery

With the Kellymorphose collection, the ever playful creative director Pierre Hardy deconstructs an iconic Hermès handbag and recasts its famous features as precious (and equally covetable) jewellery.

Article by Divya Bala

The Kelly Baguettes ring, part of the Kellymorphose collection by Hèrmes. Photography courtesy of Hèrmes.The Kelly Baguettes ring, part of the Kellymorphose collection by Hèrmes. Photography courtesy of Hèrmes.

“Disruptive” is the buzzword of our times. Disruptive technology, disruptive innovation and disruptive design, systems and thinking — everyone is busy disrupting. In most cases, the disruptee is long overdue for a modern makeover. We need to break down the old to make way for the new.

How, then, to disrupt an icon that is not only beloved but is also arguably increasing in value? It’s a question Pierre Hardy, the creative director for Hermès shoes and jewellery, asked himself when reimagining the brand’s iconic Kelly bag for his high jewellery collection Kellymorphose.

The Kelly bag, with its distinctive trapezoidal silhouette, was first realised in the 1930s by Robert Dumas, a son-in- law of Émile Hermès, the early maison head who introduced ready-to-wear, watches, shoes and jewellery. The bag was immortalised in the 1950s by Grace Kelly, who would hold the sizeable carrier over her stomach to conceal the early signs of her pregnancy (the design was subsequently named in her honour). Each Kelly bag is handcrafted over many hours and waitlists can be years long. The most expensive iteration sold in 2021 for some $US510,000 (about $AU685,000), the most ever paid for a bag sold at auction.

So, how to disrupt the world’s most valuable handbag? Enter Pierre Hardy. Upon meeting the warm, unassuming designer at the Hermès headquarters in Paris’s Eighth Arrondissement, “disruptive” seems like the wrong choice of words. “Disarming” is much more fitting. With his candour, generous use of sarcastic air quotes and boyish excitement when talking about his current favourite TV series, “Euphoria”, it’s easy to forget that Hardy has been in the business — specifically the business of Hermès — since 1990.

He was onboarded as the creative director for women’s shoes, then men’s shoes was added to his portfolio and, in 2001, he was appointed the creative director for the fine jewellery division. In his three-decade-long tenure he’s produced everything from bags and shoes to nail polish bottles. His designs range from the artfully iconic, such as the Hermès spring 2019 Sputnik heel, to the innovative (his Quick trainers from 1998 made Hermès the first luxury brand to design a sneaker made of leather) and the enduring (Hardy’s Oran sandals, designed in 1997, remain a bestseller).

The Précieux Kelly sautoir, part of the Kellymorphose collection by Hèrmes. Photography courtesy of Hèrmes.
The Précieux Kelly sautoir, part of the Kellymorphose collection by Hèrmes. Photography courtesy of Hèrmes.

“There is this collective image that everybody has of what [Hermès] is,” he says of the brand known for its clean, classically French aesthetic. “My biggest pleasure is to play with this preconceived idea and to twist it and show it in different ways. It’s one of my mottos in the creation for Hermès.

“The Kelly is the climax of [that],” he continues. “It’s the perfect image that everyone has in mind when you talk about Hermès. It’s the strongest image, too. The shape makes it easy to work with because it’s so strong — you can’t destroy it. So Kellymorphose was about exploring this object that is built with pieces — the handle, the body, the flap, the belt — and playing with it and transforming it into something more precious than it already is. It was like a game, finding a new balance. I wanted to glorify different details people might not have noticed before.”

The bag has been deconstructed and reimagined in a Lewis Carroll-esque play on proportion. The clasp: dismantled, covered with diamonds and fashioned into a choker, a five-row white-gold bracelet and a dawn-hued rose-gold ring with 28 midnight-black spinels. There’s the strap, rendered as both a white- gold Gavroche necklace (studded with 1,771 diamonds) and as the Précieux Kelly sautoir, with a shrunken bag pendant dangling from a crisscross chain. An asymmetrical pair of Kelly Clochette earrings features the iconic lock and key with “clochette” covering — festooned with diamonds, naturally. The result is an exaltation of detail and a homage to the precision engineering of the Kelly. Yet, as luminous as his creations are, it’s Hardy’s approach to life that is most inspiring. He tells me that he seeks artistry every day, adding: “It’s also maybe the reason I’m doing my job — to transform the average day into something better, if you see what I mean?” Then he collapses into giggles. “Into something more sophisticated, simpler or something more. It’s a quest, almost, that is never-ending.”

This is an edited extract from Issue 6. To read the full story, pick up a copy of our new issue in newsagents nationally, order online or subscribe to receive T Australia straight to your letterbox. You will find it on Page 48, named “Code Breaker”.

A Teardrop Locket Inspired by a Parisian Flea Market Find

The necklace, by the jewellery designer Monica Rich Kosann, features a quartz pendant surrounded by diamonds and space for two photos.

Article by Lindsay Talbot

Monica Rich Kosann’s 18-karat yellow-gold teardrop locket necklace with faceted snow quartz and a diamond border. Photography by Jong Hyup Son.Monica Rich Kosann’s 18-karat yellow-gold teardrop locket necklace with faceted snow quartz and a diamond border. Photography by Jong Hyup Son.

Like so many first-generation Americans, the jewellery designer Monica Rich Kosann has always felt deeply connected to the past. Raised on Manhattan’s Upper East Side by an Austrian mother and a Hungarian father, she spent her childhood days wandering through museums and art galleries with her family. As a student at LaGuardia High School of Music and Art, Kosann would head downtown after class to rummage through antiques stores. At 16, the gift of a Rollei film camera from her father changed her life. Inspired by Alfred Stieglitz and Edward Steichen, she spent the next two decades taking portraits of friends and acquaintances. Her love of old, beautiful things never faded, and she amassed in that time “about a gazillion” Art Deco cigarette cases, powder compacts, Victorian lockets and minaudières from the early 1900s, which she acquired at the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen in Paris, along Portobello Road in London and down Vienna’s cobblestone side streets. Kosann would insert her photos into what she called “image cases,” and give them as presents to friends, and by 2003, she launched her namesake line of sterling silver photo boxes. She eventually expanded into jewellery, offering oval filigree lockets, enamel vermeil zodiac charms and stackable gold bands that riff on 15th-century poesy rings.

Nearly 20 years later, Kosann is still drawn to the stories our objects tell, or the ones she imagines they might. A new update on one of her creations started with a mysterious silver necklace that she picked up at the flea market in Paris in the early 2000s. She was so taken by its hand-engraved scrolling motif that she sat down to sketch a gold locket with a similar pattern. Both the antique and the design it inspired have been reborn as a faceted snow quartz teardrop pendant bordered in pavé diamonds that hangs from a 75cm yellow-gold chain. When opened, the intricately etched locket reveals space for two photographs. “Heirlooms,” she says, “within heirlooms.”

Diamonds as a best friend

Whether pear-shaped or pavé, set in platinum or gold, diamonds add radiance to summertime soirées.

Article by T Australia

DiamondsClockwise from top left: Cartier earrings; Belperron ring; David Yurman bracelet; and Graff earrings. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.
Diamonds
Clockwise from top right: David Webb ring; Chopard necklace; Bulgari ring; and Chanel High Jewellery bracelet. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.
Diamonds
From top: Monica Rich Kosann bracelet; Tiffany & Co. necklace; and Louis Vuitton High Jewellery bracelet. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.
Diamonds
Clockwise from top left: Van Cleef & Arpels necklace; Repossi earring, The Vault, Saks Fifth Avenue; and Ana Khouri necklace. Photography by Anthony Cotsifas.

A version of this article appears in print in our fifth edition, Page 26 of T Australia with the headline:
“Light up the night”
Order a copy | Subscribe