Stay Here: A Paris Hotel Mixing Minimalism and Opulence

This new getaway combines Japanese and French design.

Article by Jo Rodgers

08-TMAG-PARIS-HOTEL-1The interior design of Hotel Hana, on the edge of Little Tokyo in Paris, blends Japanese restraint and maximalist French flourishes. Photograph by left: Romain Ricard. Right: Robin Le Febvre.

Several years ago, the hotelier Nicolas Saltiel stood in front of an office building on the northern edge of the Japanese quarter in Paris. The early 20th-century Haussmann-style block sat on a corner, so he could tell from the sidewalk that the light would be good. It was in the Second Arrondissement and, from the top floors, he guessed, you might be able to see the dome of Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre. (You can.) “I knew if I could manage to buy it, this place would make a perfect, intimate hotel,” Saltiel says.

Saltiel’s company, Adresses Hotels, owns five other small hotels in Paris, each of them with a distinct look and atmosphere. For Hotel Hana and its 26 bedrooms, the architect and designer Laura Gonzalez chose to highlight the hotel’s proximity to Little Tokyo, which includes the Japanese shops and restaurants on Rue Sainte-Anne, a five-minute walk away. “The source of inspiration is Japonisme, an artistic movement that emerged during the Belle Époque period,” says Gonzalez. Japanese building techniques and materials, like panelled partitions, straw walls and lacquered furniture, appear alongside French adornments like velvet headboards and rugs made by Pierre Frey. At the bar, you can order an egg sando and wash it down with a glass of Burgundy. Rooms from about $600, hotelhana-paris.com.

Where To Eat, Drink, Stay and What To Do in Launceston

From a family-friendly brewery and dining hall to an iconic bakery and a historic river cruise.

Article by Katarina Kroslakova

a new accommodation wing by Core Collective architects at the Georgian-era Leighton House in Evandale.A new accommodation wing by Core Collective architects at the Georgian-era Leighton House in Evandale.

It takes just seconds after biting into the first hot slice of pizza at Du Cane Brewery and Dining Hall to realise that UNESCO was onto a good thing by recognising Launceston as a City of Gastronomy, one of only 49 cities in the world to be awarded the honour.

As ubiquitous as black truffles are on winter menus around the country right now, let’s take a moment to appreciate that Australia’s very first black truffle was grown and harvested in northern Tasmania, at The Truffle Farm, in Deloraine, 25 years ago. Now that’s culinary impact. And Australia’s internationally renowned cooler-climate wines? They don’t come much better than those from Tasmania.

The island’s famously lush pastures, fertile soil, clean air and water, and temperate climate result in such fine fresh produce that very little needs to be done with it before it can shine on the plate. Not only are Tasmania’s farmers justifiably proud of their crops, they’re also enthusiastic about getting the public involved in the harvest process.

Launceston has built a solid reputation for both its produce and spirit of culinary innovation. Locals mingle with admiring tourists at farmers’ markets, restaurants, harvest experiences, orchards and cellar doors; from whisky and wasabi to butter and beef, the region’s 150-plus growers and producers have plenty to offer.

Tasmania’s off-season (during the cooler winter months) is, for the travelling foodie, one of the best times to visit, with relatively cheap airfares, green landscapes, heaps of harvesting opportunities and very little excuse needed to try the region’s pinot noirs next to a roaring fire.

Du Cane Brewery and Dining Hall

Du Cane Brewery and Dining Hall.
Du Cane Brewery and Dining Hall.

To get the culinary show on the road within minutes of landing, consider hot pizza, cold beer and good vibes at Du Cane. Fast establishing itself as a favourite hub for locals as well as a perfect ambassador for the state to tourists, the venue was Launceston’s first brewpub, housed in a 1,500-square-metre warehouse (formerly an outdoor goods store) near the city’s Princes Square park.

My pizza picks are The Forest (broccoli, chilli, garlic, ricotta and mozzarella on a white base) and All the Goods (ham, sausage, mushroom, artichoke, olive and mozzarella on a tomato base). Try all of the beers.

The other best bit about this family-friendly place? An epic climbing wall for the kids.

60/64 Elizabeth Street, Launceston
Open from noon, 7 days
Phone: (03) 6323 6000
ducanebrewing.com.au

Bread + Butter

The exterior of the bakery.
Bread + Butter / Photograph by Ness Vanderburgh, courtesy of Bread + Butter.
a breakfast stack.
Bread + Butter / Photograph by Ness Vanderburgh, courtesy of Bread + Butter.

What was meant to be a one-off visit for this feature quickly turned into a daily habit. That’s the problem with these amazing Launceston institutions: they get under your skin (or should that be onto your tastebuds?) and you need to come back day after day to try new things, or reorder favourite things.

First and foremost this is a bakery, with excellent coffee and flaky, hot pastries, all crafted on site using Tasmanian Butter Co cultured butter and 100 per cent Australian flour, every day of the year.

The longer you stay, the wider the selection. Omelette, tick. Breakfast egg-and-bacon roll, tick. Filled ficelle (thinner versions of a baguette), tick. One afternoon, we scrambled inside 15 minutes before closing time and picked up sourdough, cheese, meats and fruit juice for an indulgent evening picnic.

70 Elizabeth Street, Launceston (check the website for the other Bakeshop and Bakery locations in the city)
Open daily from 7am
Phone: (03) 6124 2299
breadandbuttertasmania.com.au

Tamar River Cruises

Cataract Gorge river cruise.
Cataract Gorge river cruise. Photograph courtesy of Tasmania Tourism. Tasmania.com.

A short and purposeful 50-minute adventure cruise will show the time-poor the best of Launceston’s Seaport district. See heritage properties, shipwrecks and, of course, the spectacular Cataract Gorge.

Home Point Cruise Terminal,
Home Point Parade, Launceston
Operates all year, in all weather
Phone: (03) 6334 9900
tamarrivercruises.com.au

Stillwater

The crème brûlée at Stillwater.
The crème brûlée at Stillwater.

“Where’s your reservation for lunch?” asks the cruise tour guide. “Oh, ‘Still’ something. Still Water, I think? They had a kids’ menu, so I booked it.” The guide’s jaw drops.

Turns out Stillwater is not only exemplary in its service, wine list, seasonal food and views of the Tamar Valley, it has also been one of Tasmania’s most awarded restaurants for 20-plus years.

A historic 1830s flour mill on the waterfront has been renovated to include five-star boutique accommodation, Seven Rooms, alongside the modern Australian restaurant.

As for the aforementioned kids’ menu, the fish and chips with local leaf salad was hands-down the best fish I’ve had in years. Finish your dining experience with a local whisky and make a note to return.

2 Bridge Road, Launceston
Open Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner
Phone: (03) 6331 4153
stillwater.com.au

Black Cow Bistro

You know you’ve landed on a really great steak place when, after leaving, your camera roll contains zero images of the actual steak because you were too busy scoffing it.

This iconic bistro was founded in 2008 in a former butchery, and premium dry-aged, free-range, grass-fed, hormone-free Tasmanian beef is a given. The children’s meal of an eye fillet steak with organic vegetables was truly FOMO-worthy. Friendly, knowledgeable staff, a considered wine list and a cosy atmosphere complete a great night out. Leave room for entrées (local oysters) and dessert (crème brûlée).

70 George Street, Launceston
Opens 5:30pm, Monday
to Saturday
Phone: (03) 6331 9333
blackcowbistro.com.au

Josef Chromy Wines

A pastoral views at Josef Chromy vineyard, outside Launceston.
A pastoral views at Josef Chromy vineyard, outside Launceston.

This idyllic, sprawling 61-hectare vineyard is just a 10-minute drive from Launceston city. The winery’s cellar door and restaurant are set in an original 1880s homestead, with lake views and pristine English gardens at your disposal. But first you’ll need tastings and lunch for some sustenance. Here, award-winning cool climate wines include sparkling, pinot gris, riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot, botrytis riesling and ruby pinot port.

The restaurant offers panoramic views of the vines, but your focus will soon be on the house-made sourdough with slabs of cultured butter, Tasmanian Pacific oysters, cured ocean trout, wood-grilled lamb rump and artisanal cheeses. Matching wines are a must.

370 Relbia Road, Relbia
Opens 10am, 7 days
Phone: (03) 6335 8700
josefchromy.com.au

The Truffle Farm

Shaving a hard-earned fresh black truffle over a cheese pizza at The Truffle Farm.
Shaving a hard-earned fresh black truffle over a cheese pizza at The Truffle Farm.
Black truffles unearthed at The Truffle Farm in Deloraine.
Black truffles unearthed at The Truffle Farm in Deloraine.

Very few menu ingredients elicit wide-eyed enthusiasm like black truffles. Rare, super-seasonal and luxurious, truffles can elevate almost any dish, from scrambled eggs to pizza, steak to ice cream. Translate that enthusiasm into the possibility of finding and harvesting your own truffles then enjoying them later, and the paddock-to-plate concept becomes so much more tantalising.

Regions including Western Australia and Canberra offer truffle hunting experiences, but considering Tasmania’s heritage as the first region to harvest the Périgord black truffle in Australia, the state’s truffle status is unbeatable.

The trademark experience at The Truffle Farm consists of an educational session, a delightful meet-and-greet with one of the trained truffle-hunting dogs (ours was named Marley), a guided forage through the forest, some expert digging and finally the reward of a “black diamond”. We found six. The euphoria is only heightened by the resulting mountain of fresh truffle shavings on a freshly made cheese pizza, accompanied by local wine.

844 Mole Creek Road, Deloraine
Seasonal opening hours

(truffle season December
to September)
Phone: 0437 849 283

thetrufflefarmtasmania.com.au

Meander Valley Vineyard

Apples on the tree and shoes on the lawn at Meander Valley Vineyard, Red Hills.
Apples on the tree and shoes on the lawn at Meander Valley Vineyard, Red Hills.

A final pit stop on an amazing culinary journey, this family-run winery offers not only great wines, but also good anecdotes, sheep to feed, organic fruit trees, a chill-out zone for the kids and delicious food. Oh, and it’s dog-friendly, too. Its outdoor deck is perfect for family celebrations — we witnessed two large groups spending quality time together.

Best of all, visitors can now stay on site in brand new accommodation, complete with a wood burner and a sunken bathtub out on the terrace.

46 Montana Road, Red Hills
Open after winter break, from August 1; online cellar door open
Phone: 0431 645 153
meandervalleyvineyard.com.au

Leighton House

The open-plan lounge area at Leighton House.
The open-plan lounge area at Leighton House. Photograph courtesy of Leighton House / Adam Gibson.

Minutes away from Launceston airport is one of the grandest holiday estates in town. Leighton House is a spectacular Georgian home, built in 1840, recently restored and extended to provide utmost luxury in a spectacular regional setting.

With room for two or 12 guests, Leighton House is perfect for entertaining, relaxing, enjoying and restoring: think panoramic vistas, unforgettable sunsets, crisp air and clear skies.

The original part of the estate consists of three ensuite bedrooms, all oversized and all featuring floor-to-ceiling windows to appreciate the views. The newly appointed wing was conceptualised by the Hobart-based architects Core Collective, with the additional space designed to complement the ornate original features of the home. Here, guests can now enjoy an open-plan kitchen, dining area and living room with a fireplace, while the upstairs is the ultimate teen retreat, with six double bunk beds and a games room including a pool table. An extensive contemporary art collection from some of Australia’s best artists is a unifying feature throughout the property.

Sometimes, just staying in and chilling out is the best way to holiday. Guests will need no further encouragement to do so once they see the sandstone yoga and meditation platform with hot tub, sauna, shower and fire pit. Oh, and those magic Tasmanian mountain views.

Leighton House, Evandale
Cost: from $900 per night (two-night minimum)
[email protected]
leightonhouse.com.au

T Travel List: Where and What to Book This Month

T Australia editors round up the destinations and experiences to have on your radar in July.

Article by Alice Jeffery

The pool at Buahan, Banyan Tree Escape, BaliThe pool at Buahan, a Banyan Tree Escape, Bali. Photograph courtesy of Banyan Tree Escape.

The countdown to spring in Australia is on. But if you’re looking for a late winter trip and a slice of sunshine, there’s an adults-only escape in Bali with private plunge pools overlooking lush jungle. Oceania Cruises is discounting its global sailing adventures, including trips exploring the Malaysian Peninsula and retreats down the South American coast. Closer to home, Hamilton Island is gearing up for Race Week in August and Brisbane’s The Calile Hotel is hosting poolside DJ sets to keep the summery vibes alive.

Buahan, Bali

A private villa at Buahan, Banyan Tree Escape, Bali
A private villa at Buahan, Banyan Tree Escape, Bali. Photograph courtesy of Banyan Tree Escape.
The view from the bath at a private villa at Buahan, Banyan Tree Escape, Bali.
The view from the bath at a private villa at Buahan, Banyan Tree Escape, Bali. Photograph courtesy of Banyan Tree Escape.
Bali has long answered the calls of Australians seeking an island getaway. Buahan, a Banyan Tree Escape, offers an authentic stay deep in the jungle. The adults-only property features 16 private villas, which are designed with a “naked” architecture philosophy – there’s no walls or doors standing between guests and the immersive nature outside. Beyond the breathtaking views, each villa plays host to a king-sized bed, a private plunge pool, terrace dining and a customised mini bar.
The resort’s plant-led drinking and dining offering sources ingredients from an onsite organic garden or within a 50-kilometre radius of the property. And the Toja spa (which is named for the word for water in Indonesian) collaborates with local healers and experts for its wellness-led treatments and experiences. escape.banyantree.com

Swim Sets at The Calile Hotel, Brisbane

The pool at The Calile Hotel
The pool at The Calile Hotel. Photography courtesy of The Pool at The Calile Hotel.

The Calile Hotel amps up its Miami-cool vibes this winter with a roster of DJs hitting the (swim) decks. From Wednesday to Sunday each week, the Brisbane hotel will host DJ sets on the edge of the 30-metre cabana-lined pool. Guests will also receive a $100 credit for Hellenika’s poolside dining. Order a Medusa Met Tommy (the house take on a classic margarita) and a serve of saganaki and you’ll almost believe you’re somewhere in the Mediterranean. The neighbouring James Street precinct is home to Australian shopping favourites, including the Museum of Small Things – a take on the classic lobby shop filled with curated souvenirs to remember your stay. thecalilehotel.com

Race Week, Hamilton Island

Yachts in Hamilton Island Race Week
Hamilton Island Race Week. Photography by Salty Dingo.

From August 17 to 24, keen sailors will drop anchor for another year of Hamilton Island Race Week. As Australian and international boat owners descend on The Whitsundays for the 39th iteration of the yachting competition, all eyes will be on the water (and the wind). But it’s not just about what happens on the turquoise-hued Coral Sea – the shoreline will be packed with festivities, including street parties and beachside dining events for spectators and crew to indulge in. hamiltonislandraceweek.com.au

Oceania Cruises Summer Sale

Riviera Voyage by Oceania Cruises
Riviera Voyage by Oceania Cruises. Photography Courtesy of Oceania Cruises.

Capitalise on the northern hemisphere’s summer sales with discounts on some of Oceania Cruises’s key voyages. The promotion includes discounts of up to 40 per cent off across a range of itineraries. Spend 18 days cruising from Hong Kong to Tokyo and enjoying natural beauty and culinary delights. There’s also a 10-day trip that explores the South Pacific, including stopping at ports in Tahiti and Bora Bora. North American history buffs should board the Insignia and travel from New York to Montreal. With time to explore statuesque mansions in Rhode Island, quaint seaside escapes in Maine and a handful of museums and churches from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland, the 11-day autumn itinerary trails Captain James Cook’s coastal expedition. oceaniacruises.com

How Do You Build a Jungle?

In the cities of Brazil, a landscape architect creates abundant private gardens that rewild the terrain from which these metropolises grew.

Article by Michael Snyder

Ground-hugging aluminum plantGround-hugging aluminum plant, native to Southeast Asia, surrounds a gnarled grumixama, a fruiting tree indigenous to the Atlantic rainforest, at the Brazilian landscape architect Isabel Duprat’s Jardim Botânico in São Paulo, completed in 2013. Photograph by Pedro Kok.

The architects Marcio Kogan and Renata Furlanetto of the Brazilian firm Studio MK27 had just broken ground on a new house in São Paulo in 2010 when the landscape designer Isabel Duprat informed them that they’d have to raise the entire 3,117-square-metre project, known as Casa Rampa, by almost 51 centimetres. The root system of a towering sibipiruna tree — a flowering giant native to the Atlantic rainforest ecosystem that once encompassed much of Brazil’s coast — extended farther into the plot than they’d thought. Maintaining the original position of the residence, a second home for a couple and their art collection, would mean fatally destabilising the plant. “There were two options: you move the house, or the tree dies,” says Duprat, 69, on a temperate afternoon, standing beneath its delicate bipinnate leaves. The architects didn’t hesitate: “We never touch big trees,” says Kogan, 72.

Today, that plant is one of thousands on the grounds, a place where monarch ferns frill around the auburn necks of melinonii philodendrons and buttercream and magenta orchids hang like pendants from a jabuticabeira, its spreading copper- limbs blistered with purple fruit. It takes precision to harness so much abundance; raising the house to save the sibipiruna, for instance, meant inserting tiers in the terrain to avoid girdling the roots of pre-existing loquats and phoenix palms. To place ipê and capirona trees, both Amazonian hardwoods, Duprat stood on the house’s first-floor balcony and directed her team of five gardeners below as they rotated each plant, composing the canopy to eliminate views of nearby high-rises. The rescued tree, says the 48-year-old Furlanetto, “became part of the architecture”, casting shadows through a skylight that dapple the internal concrete ramp for which the project was named. The rest of the house, says Diana Radomysler, MK27’s 63-year-old director of interiors, “was a frame for the garden”.

Swirling tiers of creeping pilea
Swirling tiers of creeping pilea, Xanadu, elephant ear and pinstripe calathea rise to meet the lower canopies of a pair of ingá trees at 2009’s Jardim Brasileiro, which Duprat designed for her sister-in-law’s São Paulo home. Photograph by Pedro Kok.
Ferns, philodendrons and flowering rose grape engulf a pool,
Ferns, philodendrons and flowering rose grape engulf a pool, all designed by Duprat at Casa Rampa, a house built in 2015 by the São Paulo architecture firm Studio MK27. Photograph by Pedro Kok.

The integration of nature and built space has defined Brazilian architecture since the 1930s, when the painter and self-taught landscape architect Roberto
Burle Marx started doing gardens for some of the country’s most iconic Modernist buildings. For his earliest public projects in the northern city of Recife, where a Dutch administrator had planted Brazil’s first known gardens nearly 300 years earlier, Burle Marx scandalised Eurocentric
elites with his use of Amazonian lily pads and cactuses from the arid Caatinga, an impoverished region in the country’s interior. “They claimed I was trying to return their city to the jungle,” Burle Marx would recall in 1994, just before his death at age 84, although he had no interest in rewilding. Rather, he wanted to cultivate a distinctly Brazilian idiom. Beginning with the Italianate geometries of Rio de Janeiro’s Passeio Público, the country’s first municipal garden, built over a pestilential lagoon between 1779 and ’83, Brazilian parks often mirrored European ones. The botanical gardens of the late 18th century replicated the era’s “green imperialism”, as the architect and professor Hugo Segawa puts it, “a way to dominate the world by dominating its knowledge of plants”.

By the end of the 19th century, French landscape architects like Auguste François Marie Glaziou and his protégé Paul Villon had transformed the gardens in Rio, then the nation’s capital, with winding paths and follies like those found throughout London and Paris. Like Glaziou before him, Burle Marx went on frequent exploratory missions into Brazil’s hinterlands to collect and identify native species; but where the French designer deployed the flora in patterns lifted from the Old World, Burle Marx moulded them — along with acclimatised exotics — into sweeping, colour-blocked abstractions, indivisible from (and no less manufactured than) the buildings they surrounded. By 1991, when New York’s Museum of Modern Art mounted a retrospective of his work, he had become the world’s most renowned living landscape architect.

Despite that history, Brazil’s prestigious architecture schools have never offered a specialised degree in landscape design (although they include limited coursework in the field). Only a small handful of Duprat’s predecessors — among them Fernando Chacel in Rio and Rosa Kliass in São Paulo — have approached Burle Marx’s stature. Most clients, says Duprat, who started designing private gardens in the early 1980s, treat the discipline as an afterthought. Landscape architects “are like ghosts”, she says. “We make things happen and then we disappear.” But her gardens, with their sinuous terracing, painterly layers of colour and texture and plantings that rise to meet — or, at times, recreate — the forest, demand to be seen. While “architects scale their vision to the roofline,” Duprat says, “our reference point is the sky.”

Born in São Paulo in 1954, Duprat traces her family’s involvement in landscape design to the 1850s. Back then, her great-great-great-uncle,
the Viscount of Bom Retiro, expropriated private lands on behalf of the Brazilian state to reforest Rio’s peaks of granite and gneiss, which had been denuded by the growing coffee industry. Planted with thousands of native copaiba trees and exotic jackfruits, those blighted hills would eventually become
the Tijuca National Park, the largest urban forest in the world. Another of Duprat’s ancestors, Raimundo da Silva Duprat, was the mayor of São Paulo during its own radical transformations in the early 20th century; he oversaw major public works like the construction of a Parisian-style pleasure park built over a buried river in the city centre. Less than half a century after its conception in 1911, the park was buried, too, this time beneath a highway.

A bed of peace lilies
A bed of peace lilies flanked by parlor palms and wide-leafed cyclanthus at the Jardim Botânico. Photograph by Pedro Kok.

Growing up in a city that barely conserved its connection to its historic landscapes, Duprat developed her love of gardens during weekends spent arranging flowers and collecting seeds at her family’s farm about two hours outside of the metropolis. In 1973, she enrolled at São Paulo’s Mackenzie School of Architecture and Urbanism, where she compensated for the lack of coursework on landscape design by reading everything she could on English and Japanese gardens and attending botany courses at the University of São Paulo. Two years into her studies, she entered the city’s Department of Green Spaces as an intern, where she offered classes in garden history to hobbyists and later helped design public parks. Duprat went into private practice in 1982, while also running a nursery and garden shop in the Jardins neighbourhood, and within a decade had as many clients in Rio as in São Paulo. She’d extend her frequent trips to the coast to spend weekends with Burle Marx at his botanical sanctuary on Rio’s western outskirts, where she’d apprenticed briefly after completing her architecture degree. “The contact with Burle Marx and with the landscape of Rio, which is so sensual and organic and strong — I brought this back with me to São Paulo,” Duprat says. “In the beginning, [some local] architects felt my work was too strong, too aggressive with their buildings.”

She nonetheless fought for her vision, which is on full display at the home of Duprat’s sister-in-law, completed in 2009 by the São Paulo firm Andrade Morettin. Here, in Jardim Europa, the architects accepted her proposal to set their 4,475-square-metre prism of perforated steel screens more than 12 metres back from the street-facing boundary wall — a deferential gesture that opened a 1,310-square-metre forecourt where Duprat sunk whorls of native ferns, begonias and calatheas almost half a metre below a travertine pathway, “like the entrance to a private rainforest”, she says.

The house’s front garden is less a place for relaxation than a living tapestry, legible only from above, a vantage essential to many of Burle Marx’s projects. Although Duprat bristles at being compared to her mentor (“Even today,” she says, “people act as if Burle Marx is the only landscape architect in Brazil”), she shares his belief that gardens can restore our fundamental connection to nature. Throughout his career, Burle Marx used his fame — and, in the 1960s and ’70s, an ethically dubious role as a cultural counsellor under Brazil’s military dictatorship — to denounce the destruction of the Amazon, which continues today. If Duprat works mostly on private projects, that’s in part because the appetite for massive public interventions has more or less disappeared, with grave consequences. In São Paulo, she says, “when leaves fall, people hate it. When flowers [drop on their windscreens], they hate it. [But] we destroy the Amazon and no one does anything about it.” The connection, for her, is clear: by living without green space and locking ourselves in climate-controlled buildings, we disrupt the cycles of death and rebirth that shape our world.

The year before finishing her sister-in-law’s garden, Duprat received a commission to develop nearly half a hectare of land on the same São Paulo street where she’d lived on and off from childhood until she was 25. Her client, a native of Rio, asked her to create an oasis within the concrete city. While a Rio garden at this scale would almost certainly face outward toward mountains and sea, here Duprat erased the city behind a canopy of cedro-rosa, sapucaia and cabreuva trees. A decade after its completion, the garden is not quite manicured but not quite wild, like a patch of rainforest that, restored to its rightful place, has adapted to an urban landscape. The garden is a fantasy, of course, but it’s also a reminder that human beings can do more than just destroy. With time and patience, we can make things grow — far beyond the roofline, up into the sky.

More expert Cultural & Travel coverage from T Australia:

Silversea Names Silver Ray, Celebrating 30 Years of Luxury Cruising

The vessel represents a leap forward in design, characterised by an extensive use of exterior glass – connecting passengers to the sea.

Article by T Australia

A master suite on board Silver Ray.A master suite on board Silver Ray. Photograph courtesy of Silversea.

Silversea Cruises, a prominent player in the ultra-luxury and expedition cruise market, has officially named Silver Ray, the second vessel in its groundbreaking Nova Class. This event highlights a significant year for Silversea as the brand marks its 30th anniversary, celebrating three decades of pioneering high-end travel experiences.

The naming ceremony, held with great fanfare, featured addresses by Jason Liberty, president and CEO of Royal Caribbean Group, and Bert Hernandez, who celebrated his first naming ceremony as Silversea’s president. Dr. Josefina Olascoaga, an esteemed ocean scientist and the ship’s godmother, along with Captain Alessandro Zanello, performed the official naming rites. The ceremony culminated in the traditional breaking of a champagne bottle against the ship’s hull. The festivities included a bagpipe performance, a customary tradition of the Royal Caribbean Group, along with live dance performances and renditions of the U.S. and Portuguese national anthems.

“Welcoming Silver Ray to our global fleet represents the latest commitment from Royal Caribbean Group to continue building the Silversea brand and delivering the very best experiences in ultra-luxury and expedition travel,” said Liberty. Hernandez added, “It is fitting that we are celebrating Silver Ray’s naming in the same year that Silversea celebrates 30 years of excellence, connecting our past with our future as we continue to lead in luxury travel and industry innovation.”

Silver Ray exterior.
Silver Ray exterior. Photograph courtesy of Silversea.
The library on board Silver Ray.
The library on board Silver Ray. Photograph courtesy of Silversea.

Silver Ray represents a leap forward in cruise ship design, characterised by an asymmetrical layout and extensive use of exterior glass, offering passengers an unprecedented connection to the ocean. This ship, along with its sister vessel Silver Nova, ranks among the most energy-efficient ultra-luxury cruise ships ever constructed, reinforcing Royal Caribbean Group’s dedication to achieving net-zero emissions. 

Silversea’s legacy spans three decades, during which its ships have hosted nearly 800,000 guests who have collectively spent approximately 13 million Venetian Society cruise days. The brand, which introduced the ultra-luxury, all-inclusive cruise concept with Silver Cloud in 1994, continues to distinguish itself with intimate, all-suite ships featuring balconies, butler service, and exceptional culinary experiences. 

As Silversea celebrates 30 years of luxury cruising, the launch of Silver Ray underscores its ongoing commitment to innovation and excellence, ensuring that the brand remains at the forefront of ultra-luxury travel.

Where Parisians Escape to for Secret Beaches and Oyster Cabanas

A guide to France’s Cap Ferret, with insider tips from Philippe Starck and three other locals.

Article by Kate Maxwell

The shallow water on the bassin side of Cap Ferret makes it a great family-friendly swimming spot. Photograph by Karel Balas.

A sandy, 15-mile spit that reaches across Arcachon Bay like a protective arm, Lège-Cap Ferret, on France’s western coast, is that country’s answer to New York’s Montauk, albeit dialed back a decade or two. Cap Ferret — not to be confused with Cap Ferrat, the glitzy, southeastern French peninsula with almost the same name — is a 30-minute ferry ride from the seaside town of Arcachon and features a varied, contrary, landscape: oyster farms on the tranquil lagoon, or bassin side, and a broad surf beach on the Atlantic side (“When there are waves, they are gigantic,” says the designer and architect Philippe Starck), which has attracted Parisians since the 1950s.

The past 15 years brought an influx of even more bourgeois-bohemian visitors — locals blame the 2010 movie “Little White Lies,” written and directed by Guillaume Canet and starring Marion Cotillard, along with the high-speed train that cut the journey time from Paris to Bordeaux, roughly 45 miles from Cap Ferret, to just over two hours in 2017. Yet the peninsula has managed, for the most part, to remain low-key.

Hotels are of the charming rather than luxury variety, while bicycles, vintage Citroëns and Mini Mokes outnumber Range Rovers and sports cars. And oyster cabanes, offering shellfish (an estimated 60 percent of the oysters consumed in France derive from the Arcachon Bay), white wine and not much else, serve as the local canteens.

Across the lagoon is Pyla-sur-Mer, a genteel village that’s home to the Philippe Starck-designed hotels La Co(o)rniche and Hotel Ha(a)ïtza and Europe’s tallest sand dune, the hulking Dune du Pilat, which rises more than 300 feet and makes for a challenging climb. Elegant Arcachon is also worth a visit for its markets and intriguing Ville d’Hiver, an enclave of ornate villas built in the 19th century for wealthy residents convalescing during Europe’s tuberculosis epidemic. Whatever you do, leave time to explore the dune-backed la Plage de l’Horizon on Cap Ferret’s Atlantic side. “It’s one of the last places in France where you can be alone on a beach in the middle of summer,” says the artist and fashion designer Marguerite Bartherotte. Here, Bartherotte, Starck and two other locals share some of their favorite spots.

The artist and fashion designer Marguerite Bartherotte grew up in Cap Ferret. She’s the co-founder and creative director of the label G. Kero, which has a boutique in Cap Ferret and in Paris.

Farid Ben Ahmed is the manager of the Moroccan homewares store Etincelles in Cap Ferret and splits time between Bordeaux and Marrakesh.

The designer Sarah Poniatowski is the founder of the homewares and clothing brand Maison Sarah Lavoine. She lives mostly in Paris but has a home in Cap Ferret and has vacationed in the area since she was a child.

The designer and architect Philippe Starck is based in Portugal and has a home in Cap Ferret. He designed both the La Co(o)rniche and Ha(a)ïtza hotels in Pyla-sur-Mer, across the bay from the peninsula, and La Pâtisserie de ma Fille, which opened in Arcachon last year. He’s currently building a small hotel in Cap Ferret.

A house and some surfboards.
Left: on the bassin side of Cap Ferret, the old-school Hôtel des Pins started out as a theater and was converted into a hotel in 1999. Right: bicycles are available to rent at Hôtel des Dunes, steps from the beach on the Atlantic side of Cap Ferret. Photograph by Karel Balas.

Hôtel des Pins is a charming throwback to the 1930s in a tranquil location on the bassin side. It started life as a theatre and was turned into a hotel by a former Bordeaux footballer in 1999. There are 13 rooms, a restaurant and a terrace.” (Rooms from about $100 a night.) — Marguerite Bartherotte

Hôtel des Dunes was the first hotel to open in Cap Ferret, in 1969, and it reopened last year after a complete restoration. It’s in the sand dunes, a [short] walk from the ocean, and has a surfy vibe. The 13 rooms are simple and retro, with tiled headboards, Bakelite phones and striped deck chairs on the terraces.” (Rooms from about $185 a night.) — Sarah Poniatowski

“I’ve been going to La Maison du Bassin for almost three decades. I have wonderful memories of a birthday surprise my wife once organised for me there: It was during a storm, so there was no heat or electricity, only candles (Rooms from about $170 a night). I also recommend renting a cottage through Sandra and Jérôme Cazaubon at Agence immobilière de la Presqu’île — it’s the best way to experience authentic local life: walking to the market, eating at the oyster cabanas on the water and renting a bicycle to go to the ocean side of the beach” (Rentals from about $1,720 a week in July.) — Philippe Starck

A set of table and chairs by the water and some oysters.
Left: a table for two at Huîtres Maleyran, a new oyster cabane on the bay run by oyster farmer brothers Jo and Yann Crombet. Right: mussels, cooked with ham and garlic, are the house specialty at Chez Hortense. Photograph by Karel Balas.

“The food at La Mayzou is super good — it’s run by a young chef named Juliette Lacroix-Wasover and the dishes, like oysters from the bassin with ginger sauce, are influenced by her travels in Indonesia [and elsewhere]. The traditional oyster degustation [tasting] in Cap Ferret can get a bit same-y, so it’s nice to have something different; the ambience is cool, and it’s very nice out of season, too. I take my kids to Sail Fish Café for a late, casual lunch when I don’t want to cook. It serves great burgers and healthy food and is open all day.” — S.P.

“It’s a pleasure to go to Huîtres Maleyran, a new oyster cabane right on the bay. I take my oysters with lemon juice and I bring my own lemons, one for each degustation, because I am very demanding and use a lot of lemon. I always order the Don Juan cocktail at Lou Bar, the cocktail bar at La Mayzou restaurant.” — M.B.

Chez Hortense, [a seafood restaurant] overlooking the bay, is a must: It’s a real Cap Ferret institution that’s been passed down from generation to generation. Book a table well in advance and order the house special, the garlicky mussels. And don’t miss the Dunes Blanches choux pastries filled with cream at Chez Pascal Pains et Dunes Blanches — they’re a delight.” — Farid Ben Ahmed

“Have oysters at La Cabane d’Hortense, the sister restaurant of Chez Hortense — it’s a classic — or at Les Parcs de l’Impératrice, which is managed by my friend Joël Dupuch: He embodies the sensitive humor of the oysterman. I also like the warm welcome and generous menus at Le Bouchon du Ferret for lunch and dinner at any time of the year — I always order the tuna pâté. If I’m entertaining at home in Cap Ferret, I love to cook an oyster omelet. Just add a few oysters at the end, warm them a bit and then serve. My friends were shocked at first but now they love it.” — P.S.

Chez Cocotte, a local grocer
Renowned for its diverse selection of high-quality fruit and vegetables, Chez Cocotte is a local go-to for cooking à la maison. Photograph by Karel Balas.

“I buy summer fruits — raspberries, cherries, melons, strawberries — from Chez Cocotte in the market. It’s run by a very funny, big-hearted woman who gives the kids bonbons.” — M.B.

“I often make a big seafood lunch for my children and their friends in the summer, with langoustines or whatever fish I find in Cap Ferret’s amazing market. It’s on every day [in summer] and I go around 8 a.m., before it gets crowded. Day.Co has a great selection of homewares brands — including a lot of my own products — as well as block-printed tablecloths and napkins that the owner has made in India, candles and a very nice collection of tableware.” — S.P.

A pastry and a cafe
Left: a cream-topped baba au rhum pastry, one of the specialties at Cap Ferret institution Frédélian. Right: the vintage photography and prints for sale at Cap Ferret fashion and concept store Jane de Boy include black-and-white portraits of Farrah Fawcett and Charlotte Rampling and Playboy covers. Photograph by Karel Balas.

“Canelés are little cakes flavoured with rum and vanilla that originated in Bordeaux — Frédélian is the most famous pâtisserie in Cap Ferret and the best place to get them.” — S.P.

“I buy sailing gear at [the Grand Piquey location of the store] Comptoir de la Mer— I recommend the marine blue captain’s cap: It’s waterproof and has been refined over the years to work to perfection at sea. I find original perfumes, like Me Gustas by my lifelong friend Jacques Zolty, at Jane de Boy. My wife and daughter love the boutique’s laid-back, rock ’n’ roll fashion and the advice the owner, Marie, gives them.” — P.S.

The Cabanes Tchanquées
The Cabanes Tchanquées next to the Île aux Oiseaux (Bird Island). These cabins on stilts, which were first built in the 1880s and then rebuilt in the 1940s, were used by oyster farmers to survey the beds at high or low tide. Photograph by Karel Balas.

“Rent a pinasse, a traditional wooden boat, and sail to the Banc d’Arguin, a huge sandbank in the middle of the bay, in front of the Dune du Pilat. It’s the most beautiful place in the world: At low tide you think you’re in the Maldives, there’s amazing bird life and you can be alone even on July 14 [Bastille Day]. We spend all afternoon there, picnicking and playing pétanque until sunset.” — S.P.

“There are lots of secret beach spots on the Atlantic Ocean side. Park your car anywhere on Avenue de Bordeaux Cap Ferret and walk through the forest to endless kilometers of white sand.” — M.B.

“Take a boat to the Cabanes Tchanquées, next to the Île aux Oiseaux (Bird Island). These cabins on stilts, the first of which was built in 1883 [then rebuilt in the 1940s], were used by oyster farmers to survey the beds at high or low tide — they’re an amazing sight.” — F.B.A.

“When I have a bit of free time, I do what everyone else does on the bassin: I take a boat with some good friends, white wine and a few oysters and we chat until it gets dark. The real treat is the local talent for conversation. The oystermen’s sense of humor is sharp, creative and contagious. I also enjoy bicycling through the villages or the forest. I wish I could surf: My daughter Justice does, and it’s one of her favorite spots to do it. Alex école de surf is the place to learn.” — P.S.

“Make sure you reserve the taxi boat from Arcachon to Cap Ferret in advance — it takes [around] 30 minutes and it’s the best way to get to the peninsula since there’s just one tiny road, which can take ages.” — S.P.