Over the last 10 years, Tudor has rediscovered its mojo in a big way. The lowdown
For many years, Tudor languished in the vast shadow of its sister brand, Rolex. This is hardly surprising, considering Rolex is the world’s biggest watch brand which, according to data compiled by WatchPro, now accounts for a whopping 25 per cent of all Swiss watch sales. Nevertheless, the fact that Tudor was initially launched as a more affordable option to Rolex may also have contributed to the brand not getting the level of credibility it deserved. After being founded in 1926, Tudor lost its way in the early 2000s and wound down its distribution. But over the last 10 years, Tudor has rediscovered its mojo in a big way.
Central to this resurgence was the launch in 2012 of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay, a retro diving watch with a distinctive bezel in matte burgundy. This was a serious diver with head-turning looks that was available for a remarkably good price. Suddenly Tudor became a hot proposition.
While Rolex was unimpeachable but ever so slightly staid, Tudor became the more fashion-forward sibling (the brand’s ambassadors now include David Beckham and Lady Gaga). Contemporary buyers began to appreciate that Tudor was a heritage brand sharing much of Rolex’s technical expertise, but creating watches at a fraction of the price.
The Black Bay continued to drive this momentum. Released each year in a different iteration or colour-way, its popularity grew and grew. Of particular note was the Black Bay Fifty-Eight with its case downsized to a classic 39mm. Finally, Tudor was no longer being eclipsed by Rolex – it was enjoying standalone success.
The hardware
That context is necessary to appraise the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K. The watch represents uncharted territory for Tudor because it’s their first piece in solid gold. That precious-metal casing is therefore significant and feels like the brand flexing its new-found confidence and swagger.
There’s nothing apologetic about this watch. The dial and bezel are in a matching green that accentuates the luxurious sheen of the gold. Behind this dazzling colour palette, the watch conforms to the technical specs of the Fifty-Eight and features Tudor’s trademark snowflake hands. Despite its precious metal bodywork, it’s still a functional diver with a screw-down crown that helps to ensure its depth rating of 200 metres. Flip it over and the COSC-certified movement is now visible through an open caseback – although one suspects this may have been an economic call to save on the amount of gold used.
The verdict
Where this handsome watch becomes contentious is the price-tag of $22,880. Being made out of 18-karat gold understandably bumps it into a new financial stratosphere (last year’s stainless-steel Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue, for example, was a quarter of the price at $5000).
There will be naysayers who view this expense as contradicting Tudor’s whole premise as a high-quality value proposition. But that feels like a decidedly po-faced reaction to a statement piece of such exuberant fun. With its recent track record and long history, Tudor no longer has to indulge in false modesty. This watch is like the wallflower that one day realises they now have the power to blossom and dazzle the room.
