The model and activist Marina Testino amid landfill on the outskirts of Lima, Peru. Photograph by India Plowman In the ever-shifting landscape of fashion, where trends rise and fall with dizzying speed, the once-revered territory of vintage clothing is being quietly overshadowed by a mountain of newly manufactured, mostly lower-quality garments. As the industry churns out more product than ever, it leaves behind an unsettling legacy: in 2023 alone, the fashion world reportedly generated a staggering 97 million tons of waste. Of that total, 18 million tons were discarded textiles, 2.5 million tons comprised chemical waste and 3 million tons were packaging materials. Authentic, high-quality vintage pieces, on the other hand — rich with history and individuality, and representative of a high level of craftsmanship – are becoming harder to find, precipitating a looming sense of cultural loss.
“The most sustainable garment is one that’s already in circulation,” says Marina Testino, an activist and advocate for sustainable fashion. “With so much clothing in the world, relying on existing textiles such as vintage, preloved, second-hand, thrifted or upcycled items reduces the demand for newly produced fibres. Vintage is a key part of this solution.”
Fast fashion, on the other hand, by its nature churns out new collections constantly, encouraging consumers to buy into short-lived trends and discard garments after minimal wear. This cycle leaves little room for thoughtful fashion consumption and devalues vintage clothing, which represents the opposite of this throwaway culture. “Fast fashion dictates what’s in style so frequently that anything older than a season is deemed passé,” says the designer and painter Heidi Middleton, who founded the responsible-fashion and art atelier Artclub. “This mentality overlooks the timeless nature of well-made garments from past eras.”
“Fast fashion has certainly impacted the availability and appreciation of vintage clothing,” says Testino. “Unlike fast fashion, which can churn out endless quantities of ‘vintage-inspired’ items, vintage is inherently limited — you can’t recreate clothing from decades ago. This rarity gives vintage its unique value in a sea of mass-produced, throwaway pieces.” Middleton, for one, has observed a resulting devaluation of craftsmanship. “Vintage clothing has always held a strong place in my creative process — I reference detailing, silhouettes and moods from historical fashion when designing for Artclub,” she says. “It’s disheartening to see this artistry replaced by mass production.”
While fast fashion threatens the availability of vintage fashion by dominating retail spaces and flooding the few second-hand outlets with inferior garments, there is hope. Consumers’ growing emphasis on sustainability is steering the fashion industry towards a more conscious approach. While unsustainable practices have long been profitable, brands are increasingly recognising that future success depends on adopting more eco-friendly processes in order to stay relevant in an increasingly conscious marketplace.
“Repurposing clothes, mending imperfect garments, renting, swapping and loaning fashion are gaining momentum,” says Middleton. “I like incorporating this into my current design process at Artclub, where interactive garments, or styles that can be worn in several ways, are becoming more prevalent.” She notes how her own children are drawn to vintage pieces. “My daughters often mix vintage with modern pieces, reflecting the growing importance of vintage for both environmental and social reasons,” she says. Testino agrees: “I see the future of fashion evolving toward a more conscious industry. While some may dismiss sustainability as just another trend, I believe it reflects a deeper cultural shift. Today’s consumers are incredibly informed and they expect transparency from the brands they support.”
With social media helping to celebrate individual style, shoppers are starting to turn away from the rigid cycles of fast fashion, opting instead to mix high-quality vintage pieces with modern finds, creating looks that are distinctly their own. Platforms such as Instagram and TikTok reward creativity and self-expression, empowering people to break free from fast fashion trends and embrace more sustainable, personal styles. “Just look at young people today — they’re tired of being told what to wear,” says Testino. “They’re more focused on developing their personal sense of style and using clothes as a means of self-expression.” Testino says vintage clothing’s authenticity is its advantage. “Vintage has the added benefit of staying on trend,” she says. “Fashion constantly draws inspiration from past eras, whether it’s the Y2K revival,’70s fringe or ’90s grunge. Vintage clothing offers an authentic, elevated way to participate in these trends while contributing to a more circular economy. On top of that, these pieces are generally more timeless and durable than their fast fashion counterparts. It’s a win-win.”
For brands, sustainability can involve extending the life of their products through take-back programs, repair services and platforms that promote resale and upcycling, ensuring garments stay in circulation longer. “These initiatives encourage creative reuse and promote accountability in fashion production,” says Testino. “They will also hugely benefit future second-hand markets by adding more high-quality, durable goods into the mix.”
Testino is optimistic. “The growing awareness of sustainability is reshaping the industry,” she says. “Brands are responding by investing in conscious solutions and consumers are more informed than ever. The balance will continue to shift as demand for accountability grows.” Middleton, meanwhile, offers some advice. “Invest in quality garments, whether they be from known designer houses or lesser-known but well-crafted pieces,” she says. “This is important for the longevity of garments and supports our need to wear natural, high-quality fabrics moving forward.” Vintage fashion’s value remains its irreplaceableness — it represents not just clothing but a connection to history, craftsmanship and personal style that transcends trends. In the face of fast fashion’s rapid churn, the growing demand for authenticity and sustainability may well be vintage fashion’s saving grace.
