WATCH REVIEW

The Context

The Aqua Terra is the quiet achiever in the Omega watch family. Unlike other notable pieces in the brand’s portfolio, it’s not the first model to travel to the moon or sit upon the wrist of a certain James Bond. Instead, the Aqua Terra goes about its business with more discretion, a versatile daily wearer with a formidable movement that can be happily worn on land or sea – as the Latin name would suggest.

But that’s not to say the Aqua Terra can’t get fancy. In 2017, to commemorate the 15th birthday of the line, Omega delivered a worldtimer limited-edition in platinum. This was a sporty take on the classic complication with a stylised map of the world in the centre of the dial. Subsequent versions have followed, but now Omega has delivered three of the boldest iterations yet with two pieces in steel and one in titanium.

The Hardware

First things first, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer is a big watch measuring 43mm in diameter, 14.1mm in height and 50mm lug-to-lug. Then again, the world is a big place and given its represention here, a certain amount of real estate is to be expected. At the centre of the dial, Omega has crafted a depiction of the Earth as viewed from above the North Pole. This is achieved by laser-ablating – a process which basically translates to carving out the topographical outlines with laser beams. Circling the map is a 24-hour indication under hesalite glass, divided into night and day sections and ringed with the names of a host of global destinations.

The titanium Worldtimer is distinct in that the entire dial has been executed by laser ablation. This results in a monochromatic colourscape with the hands and markers blackened and the cities rendered in white. Encircled by a black ceramic bezel, the watch’s solitary pop of colour is introduced by the red word “London”.

The steel versions, on the other hand, take on more verdant hues with a green ceramic bezel and green dial.  Adding further visual interest, the hands and markers are crafted from Omega’s trademark Moonshine gold, an 18-karat gold alloy.

Wherever in the world you’re heading, the watches deliver ample functionality. The worldtimers are water resistant to 150m while the dial hands and markings are bedecked with lume. Visible through the exhibition caseback, the pieces are powered by the METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8938 that comes with a 60-hour power reserve.

 The Verdict

There’s no doubt these are striking and visually impressive watches that deliver plenty of wrist presence. The only potential drawback for the Australian market is the way in which Omega has chosen to tackle that map of the world. The decision to show the planet as viewed from the North Pole means that the South Hemisphere is conspicuously overlooked. It’s an omission capable of triggering a renewed bout of culture cringe in any Australian watch lover. Then again, at least Omega did make the steel versions in green and gold.

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer (Titianium) $18,575, Steel with rubber strap $16,025, Steel on bracelet $16,350

As a general rule, watch names tend to be far too long-winded, and it’s certainly true that with the Piaget Polo Emperador Tourbillon Exceptional Piece, those last couple of words are superfluous. One glance at this preposterously extravagant timepiece tells you this could only belong in the “truly exceptional” category.

Piaget has traditionally dedicated a split focus between both watches and jewellery, but they also combine their skill in these twin disciplines with wildly ornate jewellery watches that found fame on the wrists of the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy in the ‘60s and ‘70s. This latest release doesn’t just build on those luxurious foundations, it erects a skyscraper that towers to the clouds.

The Hardware

It should be pointed out at this stage that this not a watch inspired by the age of austerity. It’s a one-off creation that costs $2.69 million. Whether you can ever truly justify such a price tag is a questionable issue, but in terms of the sheer craftsmanship involved, what we have is a 49mm watch with a white-gold case. Normally, you might write that the case “houses” the movement. But given the jaw-dropping level of ostentation, “palaces” feels like the more appropriate verb. Inside is a tourbillon self-winding mechanical movement that is usually thick and bulky. Piaget – who have long specialised in ultra-thin technology – have contrived to make a skeletonised version that is just 6mm thick. This 1270D calibre takes 10 times longer to produce than a traditional flying tourbillon movement so it’s a very swanky complication. But the real talking point here is that it’s clothed in an even more decadent outfit.

Pretty much every millimetre of this case and bracelet dazzles with diamonds and sapphires. The crown? Yes, of course, that too. But where Piaget have really overreached is the skeletonised movement, which has also been set with baguette-cut gemstones, right down to the micro-rotor. Essentially, this is like opening the bonnet of a supercar to show off an engine that is festooned with precious stones. Every detail has been realised in the most lavish way imaginable. The movement’s oscillating weight, for example, is made of platinum and smothered with hand-bevelled, baguette-cut diamonds. Setting all these diamonds across the movement, case and bracelet took 200 hours of handiwork alone.

The Verdict

One of my favourite details about this watch is the fact that it’s water-resistant to 30 metres. This creates the surreal image of the eventual owner blithely taking this spell-binding treasure for a random paddle. Then again, who really knows? Such people occupy their own rarefied stratospheres and no doubt follow their own lunatic whims.

Ultimately, a watch like this is made less for the dollar return but for the sheer publicity that its magnificence demands. This watch is what haute couture is to a luxury fashion house or a concept car is to a motoring brand. It’s no longer a mere timepiece but a grand statement of Piaget’s technical ability and imagination. If you do succumb to its $2.69 million charms, however, please do remember: don’t dive with it to depths over 30m.