To mark 25 years of considered craft and quiet rebellion, Lee Mathews returned to Australian Fashion Week with a reflective Resort 2026 collection — one that paid homage to the brand’s archive while offering a clear-eyed vision of the future. Staged as both a celebration and a continuation, the show was underscored by a series of thoughtful collaborations, including a beauty partnership with Rationale, the official skincare and makeup sponsor. Led by makeup artist Linda Jefferyes, the runway look leaned entirely on SPF formulations — a radiant, resort-inspired finish that aligned with both brands’ shared commitment to luminosity, innovation and care. “What I love about Rationale’s Beautiful Balms is how they enhance your complexion while nurturing your skin,” Jefferyes said. “It’s rare to find makeup that offers both aesthetic and skincare benefits so seamlessly.”
Here, Mathews reflects on two and a half decades of independent design, the value of staying in your own lane, and how softness and strength continue to shape the label’s enduring signature.
Photograph courtesy of Lee Mathews and the Australian Fashion Council.
Photograph courtesy of Rationale.
Subscribe
Want more T Australia? Subscribe to the magazine and receive a bonus issue
What does your AFW 25 collection say about where your brand is right now — and where it’s headed next?
This season feels like a nod to everyone who’s been part of the journey — the artists, the makers, the mills. We’ve revisited pieces from the archive too, so it’s both a look back and a moment to think about where we’re headed. It’s been exciting to collaborate again with Renata (who we worked with for Resort 25), and to work with Nina Walton, whose art I’ve long admired. While we’ve evolved over the past 25 years, our values haven’t changed. We’ll keep asking questions, taking risks, and staying in our own lane.
Can you describe the moment or mood that first sparked the concept for this season?
It all started with the idea of a ballet rehearsal. I’ve always admired Pina Bausch and her approach to choreography, which made me think about what dancers wear in rehearsal, the layering, the sheer tights, the skin tones. There’s something about that tension between strength and softness that I find really compelling. It also ties into how we love to rework and revisit pieces from our archive. Those silhouettes are part of our story, and over the years, we’ve become known for bringing them back, but always with a fresh take or a new fabrication for the season ahead.
Photograph courtesy of Lee Mathews and the Australian Fashion Council.
Photograph courtesy of Lee Mathews and the Australian Fashion Council.
How do you see this collection in conversation with what’s happening in Australian fashion more broadly?
I guess I’d say I don’t really focus on that. I take risks and stay in my own lane. It’s a healthier approach, and honestly, I think more people should do it. Stick to what you do, refine it, and let that be your signature. We’ve developed a distinct handwriting over time, and we lean into that, playing with our own body of work, deconstructing and reassembling it to create something new.
Were there any particular materials, silhouettes, or motifs you found yourself returning to? Why do you think they resonated this time?
We revisited many of our signature finishings and fabrications for this collection — natural fibres, cotton taping, and archival silhouettes that we’ve reworked and reimagined with a fresh perspective.
How does the Australian landscape — physical or cultural — shape your work?
The natural world and the Australian landscape are major influences on our collections, especially when it comes to the colour palette and our exploration of texture. We draw so much inspiration from the raw beauty around us.
Photograph courtesy of Lee Mathews and the Australian Fashion Council.
Subscribe
Want more T Australia? Subscribe to the magazine and receive a bonus issue
Who are you designing for this season? Has that imagined wearer changed or stayed consistent over time?
We’re always thinking about the LM woman when we design. Our customers are incredibly loyal, and they’ve been such an important part of our brand; they’ve stood by us. One of the most rewarding things is seeing those same women bring in their daughters or granddaughters and introduce them to the brand. It’s a lovely full-circle moment.
Are there any collaborators, references, or personal rituals that played a meaningful role in the development of this show?
For this collection, we continued our collaboration with designer Renata Brenha on a small capsule of pieces. We talked a lot about those early days when I was designing slip dresses, and how my current inspirations, especially dance and Pina Bausch, resonate with both of us. We really wanted these pieces to embody a spirit of experimentation, so we pushed the silhouettes, dialing up the volume, while still keeping the construction visible to maintain that sense of purity and intention.
We also revisited signature materials like cotton tape and organza, but this time we pushed them toward a more couture expression.
I’ve long admired the work of artist Nina Walton, so it was great to collaborate with her on a few exclusive prints that you’ll see throughout the collection.
And for footwear, we teamed up with our long-time partners at Hereu.
Fashion is often about dualities — structure and softness, tradition and disruption. What tensions are you exploring in this body of work?
The idea of softness and strength. It’s something we explore each season through a few brand codes that focus on this duality. It’s an exploration that feels very natural to us.
Photograph courtesy of Lee Mathews and the Australian Fashion Council.
How do you balance trend-awareness with a sense of enduring identity in your collections?
At the core of it, we just believe in making good things. My approach is all about designing clothes that really connect with people’s lives, pieces that are practical, beautiful, and timeless. I want them to feel simple but still make an impact.
What’s one detail from this show — a gesture, a stitch, a soundtrack choice — that you hope doesn’t go unnoticed?
Everything in this collection has been designed with intention. I hope that comes through — that you catch a subtle reference to an archive piece you once loved, or feel the story woven through the details. More than anything, I hope the collection reflects the past 25 years and how we’ve grown and evolved along the way.
And finally, what does showing at Australian Fashion Week mean to you, especially in a global fashion landscape?
We’re an Australian brand, so there’s something special about showing on home soil. This show feels like a tribute to everyone who’s been part of the journey – the artists, the makers, the mills. It’s really about looking back at where we started while thinking about where we’re headed.
Photograph courtesy of Lee Mathews and the Australian Fashion Council.
