Models behind the scenes of Melbourne label Verner's AFW show. Photograph courtesy of Getty. The Resort ‘25 collections at Australian Fashion Week (AFW) showcased several notable themes. Metallics stood out at Acler’s show in the form of golden knee-high boots, while newcomer Rory William Docherty impressed with a high-shine bubble skirt. Pearls were draped around models at Emma Mulholland on Holiday‘s debut, and dripping from head pieces as part of Bella Davies‘s collection at FDS: The Innovators show. Meanwhile, sheer fabrics made their way into almost every runway.
The most impactful theme of the week, however, was the clever use of upcycled materials – showcasing the artistry behind Australian fashion but also its capacity for meaningful change.
Albus Lumen opened the week with its “Rebellion” collection drawing inspiration from the concept of rebirth. Designer Marina Afonina deconstructed archival pieces from the past nine years and reinvented them by distressing garments, dying fabrics and adding new elements. Pants were dip-dyed, sheer tops were tied in all directions and coats were adorned with pearls.
For emerging New Zealand fashion designer Rory William Docherty, “slow fashion” stands as a cornerstone of his craft, evident in his AFW debut. Docherty’s collection was a continuation of his previous designs using familiar offcuts and fabrications, to give new life to favoured pieces. Metallic pink pockets were stitched onto Levi jeans and accessories were made from alfoil cuts.
“The pieces in ‘Love Collateral’ transcend seasons, gender and age,” he tells T Australia. “The design ethos merge the poetic with the practical, expressing masculinity and femininity and blending grace and drama with the kind of easy pieces that have universal appeal.”
Ingrid Verner of Melbourne label Verner incorporated op shop finds into her ’70s surf culture-inspired collection. She utilised deadstock fabrics, capturing the essence of a classic Australian summer through hibiscus print shirts, striped T-shirts and a playful line of ugg boots and slippers created in collaboration with Australian label Ugg Express.
“Memories, culture and a sense of the uncanny play an important role in ‘Blue Heaven,’” Verner tells T Australia. “But above all, inspiration has been drawn from an exploration of surroundings: the here, and now and the everyday.”
“A love for Australian op shops and exploring the line between the cherished and the discarded also help set the scene for this collection.”
Up-and-coming labels Speed and Injury both proved to be ones to watch, spearheading sustainable initiatives like made-to-order pieces and upcycling fabrics to reduce waste. However it was Jackie Galleghan, the founder and designer behind Sydney label Madre Natura, that made the boldest statement of the week. Just moments before the show, she announced the collection she’d be sending down the runway would feature the exact same pieces from last year. Entitled “Last Season Collection,” each garment received a fresh interpretation. As part of the initiative, Madre Natura broadcasted the show live to a global audience on TikTok.
Sustainable practices extended beyond the runway. Renowned Australian model, dancer, and actress Mimi Elashiry, a prominent figure in the fashion industry, unveiled a new project called Love Your Mama in collaboration with Celeste Tesoriero of Sonzai Studios. The duo are partnering with sustainably-conscious brands worldwide to advocate for their practices. AFW marked the debut, with Elashiry and Tesoriero wearing pieces by T.G Botanical from Ukraine, Daar Dahlia from Kyro and Soultys the Label in Sydney.
The Ugg Boots and slippers from Verner’s Resort ’25 collection are now up for auction, with all proceeds going towards mental health organisation Beyond Blue.
