Anaïs Nin’s Los Angeles Hideaway Still Keeps Her Secrets

Shrouded by the pines of Silver Lake, the erotic writer’s minimalist, midcentury residence is a lasting monument to her life and legacy.

Article by Kurt Soller

A view from the black-bottomed pool into the bedroom of Anaïs Nin’s Los Angeles home, designed by Eric Lloyd Wright. Photography by Chris Mottalini.A view from the black-bottomed pool into the bedroom of Anaïs Nin’s Los Angeles home, designed by Eric Lloyd Wright. Photography by Chris Mottalini.

Among many writers, there’s a commonly held belief that a desk must be organised, an office must be tidy, an entire home must be cleaned, before one can finally sit down and fill the empty pages before them. One can’t help but think of such habits — the physical manifestation of routine and discipline — when visiting the completely preserved home of the midcentury French American eroticist Anaïs Nin, who died at 73 in 1977 in Los Angeles. Here, hidden among pines overlooking the Silver Lake neighbourhood’s reservoir, Nin envisioned a low, single-storey aerie, which she called her “one large studio, no separate, small partitions.” This description appeared in the first edition of her diary (originally published in 1966), which she began writing at 11 as a child traveling to America from the Parisian suburb of Neuilly-sur-Seine and continued until her death. Today, there are 18 volumes — with a final one left unpublished — comprising an oeuvre that also includes frank, feminist, sexually explicit, oft-censored essays about her various lovers; literary criticism (the English writer D.H. Lawrence was a favourite); and beloved works of fiction like “House of Incest” (1936) and “Delta of Venus” (1977), many of which she initially printed herself.

It’s easy to see why this house, completed in 1962, was where she got much of this work done: There are hardly any distractions, visual or otherwise. Approached from the end of a long driveway off a steep, winding road, it resembles a pavilion clad entirely in rich, dark Douglas fir. Inside, the original 120-square-metre interior incorporates lots of wire-brushed plywood in the form of heavily striated boards and built-ins, alongside two other materials: concrete blocks and plate glass. Massive windows front one side of the house, providing views of a rock garden, a small pool, scruffy cliffside brush and the city beyond. Aside from the narrow kitchen, there are few well-defined rooms: The living area connects with a sleeping space that’s separated only by an accordion-style, floor-to-ceiling wooden partition that usually remained open; Nin didn’t have children and preferred not to have any guests staying overnight. Next to the bedroom is her small private study, about nine square metres, in the building’s back corner.

A painting by Jean Varda hangs over a built-in seating platform in the living room. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
A painting by Jean Varda hangs over a built-in seating platform in the living room. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Nin’s typewriter in the study. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Nin’s typewriter in the study. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
A view from the living room, over the indoor rock garden, out to the pool. Silver Lake Reservoir is beyond the hedges. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
A view from the living room, over the indoor rock garden, out to the pool. Silver Lake Reservoir is beyond the hedges. Photography by Chris Mottalini.

The few furnishings — a built-in floating desk; a long, low sofa; a few squat chairs and an ottoman; the kitchen cabinets — that fill the compact three-metre-tall rooms are made largely from the same wood as the walls, its purplish-brown hue complementing the mauve carpeting and the pinkish-grey concrete bricks to create a distinctive, unlikely palette that makes one feel as if they’re hibernating inside a dusty, cracked-open geode — or better, in the spirit of Nin, a womb. That sensation, of being enveloped, is punctuated only by a few statuettes, artefacts and books picked up during her travels throughout America, Europe and Asia; paintings and letters given to her over the years by lovers and artist friends such as Henry Miller, Jean Varda and Eyvind Earle; and the bold turquoise of the upholstery, as well as the teal rotary telephone and typewriter that still haunt Nin’s writing nook and which allude to her adopted homeland’s bright blue vistas. “It had the sense of space of Japanese houses … all sky, mountains, lake, as if one lived out of doors,” Nin wrote in her diary of her home. “Yet the roof, held by its heavy beams, gave a feeling of protection.”

The library contains first editions of Nin’s work. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
The library contains first editions of Nin’s work. Photography by Chris Mottalini.

If Nin’s home was built for a specific artist, it took a few others to execute her vision. When she moved in, the writer was married to Rupert Pole, a musician whose mother’s decades-old weathered ebony wood baby grand piano still claims one corner of the sitting room. Pole’s half brother was Eric Lloyd Wright, a grandson of Frank Lloyd Wright and the son of the landscape architect Lloyd Wright, both of whom young Eric apprenticed for, assisting on projects like New York’s 1959 Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum. Eric, now 92 and living in nearby Malibu, spent his life restoring his grandfather’s buildings and becoming a residential architect in his own right, designing spaces that often shared his elders’ interest in geometric forms, organic materials and natural landscapes. As the lore goes, Nin herself was somewhat in awe of the Wrights — those “giants of the West,” she called them — and was worried her own creativity might be subsumed by theirs. Despite that fear, the couple asked Eric to build the house because he grasped how they wanted to live: In Nin’s study, for instance, the architect built a bank of corner windows above her desk, so that she might stare out at the small back garden’s pittosporum, rather than at the walls, when she was writing.

Another painting by Varda hangs in the bedroom, which is separated from the living room by a folding partition. Double sliding glass doors open onto the backyard and pool. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Another painting by Varda hangs in the bedroom, which is separated from the living room by a folding partition. Double sliding glass doors open onto the backyard and pool. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
The Douglas fir-clad kitchen still has its original appliances. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
The Douglas fir-clad kitchen still has its original appliances. Photography by Chris Mottalini.

Pole, who died in 2006, had his own motives for giving Nin this retreat. In those years, she travelled often to her home in New York City where, unbeknown to many of her West Coast intimates, she was keeping another husband, the filmmaker Hugh Parker Guiler, whom she’d previously married and then lied about divorcing. Pole admitted in a 1984 interview that he “really built the house to persuade her to dig some roots, and she was very much against it, saying that she had ‘portable roots.’ Nevertheless, it worked … she always looked forward to coming back here after she had been away.” Nin referred to the place as her “house of mirrors” and was particularly entranced by the way the golden light bounced between the large windows and the pool below, where she’d swim whenever she felt stuck.

In the living room, a Steinway piano handed down from Lloyd Wright beside a collage painting by Varda. An accordion door closes off the bedroom. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
In the living room, a Steinway piano handed down from Lloyd Wright beside a collage painting by Varda. An accordion door closes off the bedroom. Photography by Chris Mottalini.

She spent most of her later life in Silver Lake. Four years after she died, Pole and his new partner, Kazuko Sugisaki, commissioned Eric to build a 50-square-metre addition — all with the same plywood shelving, lilac carpeting and corner windows as the adjacent study — that now functions as a library displaying first editions of Nin’s books alongside those of Miller and other peers. Since 2007, the Nin-Pole Residence, as it’s come to be known to both literary and architectural fans who want (and mostly fail) to get a peek inside, has been owned and inhabited by Eric’s son Devon and his wife, Tree. Devon, 59, often attended gatherings at the house as a child, and living here in recent years has brought back certain memories: of the building’s resonant acoustics, for instance, and of the fact that Pole and Nin only seemed to use their lavender-tiled iridescent dining table (and kitchen, for that matter) when they were giving parties.

Another view of Nin’s study. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Another view of Nin’s study. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Three portraits of Nin hang on the wall of the library. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Three portraits of Nin hang on the wall of the library. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Tree, Rhiannon and Devon Wright in the living room. Photography by Chris Mottalini.
Tree, Rhiannon and Devon Wright in the living room. Photography by Chris Mottalini.

One of the first things the latest generation did upon moving in was to have the house designated a historic-cultural monument, with the idea of preventing any future design interventions. They’ve refused to add a microwave or modernise the dated kitchen appliances; when a section of the carpet needs replacing, the colour is painstakingly matched; and they’ve hunted down LED bulbs that lend the same lanternlike light as the original incandescent overheads. But Devon and Tree have also left a few of their own imprints, installing things like blinds that block the mid-afternoon sun, and a wooden deck reminiscent of a Japanese teahouse’s — both reminders, Devon says, that the dwelling “is still churning out new experiences, new ways to live.”

And now it’s someone else’s turn to experience it. During the pandemic, as these once sedate hills became increasingly crowded with new arrivals, the couple decided to move to Ojai, California, but not before finding stewards who’ll respect the Nin-Pole’s lineage by not refurnishing or otherwise ruining it. They must understand that it’s not just a house but a shrine to an artist’s — well, several artists’ — way of being. As Nin wrote, “Had I not created my whole world, I would certainly have died in other people’s.”

Piero Lissoni Can’t Stop Reinventing His Milan Apartment

The architect and designer has created a space that celebrates ever-shifting and highly edited juxtapositions.

Article by J.S. Marcus

In the living room, a Lissoni-designed Living Divani Floyd sofa, PK71 nesting tables, a PK80 bench and a pair of PK22 leather chairs, all by Kjaerholm and currently produced by Fritz Hansen, along with a small round wooden table from Mali and an Arco lamp by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni for Flos. The artwork is by Alberto Biasi. Photography by Martina Giammaria.In the living room, a Lissoni-designed Living Divani Floyd sofa, PK71 nesting tables, a PK80 bench and a pair of PK22 leather chairs, all by Kjaerholm and currently produced by Fritz Hansen, along with a small round wooden table from Mali and an Arco lamp by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni for Flos. The artwork is by Alberto Biasi. Photography by Martina Giammaria.

Piero Lissoni is nothing if not precise. The 65-year-old Italian architect and designer micromanaged everything in his new Milan apartment, from the severe steel window frames to the irregular jigsaw pattern of the primary bathroom’s Carrara marble floors. He is quick to point out that the walls of the apartment, located on a low floor of a 1950s high rise, are not merely white but something known as 9010, or pure white, according to a design-industry colour chart dating back to Weimar-era Germany. However, he equivocates when asked how he managed to make the two-bedroom, 230-square-metre home — marked by formal tableaus of austere objects and a palette that’s best described as chilly — feel somehow cosy, before deferring, finally, to his wife, the 47-year-old Italian photographer Veronica Gaido.

Really, “she’s the architect,” he says, even though Lissoni works as the creative director of several Italian furniture brands, including B&B Italia and Living Divani, as well as Boffi, the kitchen and bathroom company, and runs his own multidisciplinary design studio with offices in Milan and New York. A tall, restrained native Milanese, he cites Italy’s midcentury modern masters Achille Castiglioni and Vico Magistretti as mentors. But his latest home reveals a passion for the postmodernist work of his friend Ettore Sottsass, the Memphis Group founder whose 20th-century experiments — such as the multicoloured, circa-1986, Christmas tree-like Clesitera vase — look surprisingly discreet when sharing a space with Lissoni’s collection of somber, ageless, centuries-old East Asian pottery. The designer also collects vintage Danish midcentury modern pieces, including the Poul Kjaerholm black leather daybed in the living room and the Hans Wegner Wishbone wooden chairs around the new glass dining table of his own design.

In the entrance of the architect and designer Piero Lissoni’s Milan apartment, a PK0 chair by Poul Kjaerholm and a late 19th-century Japanese rice paper and fabric screen. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
In the entrance of the architect and designer Piero Lissoni’s Milan apartment, a PK0 chair by Poul Kjaerholm and a late 19th-century Japanese rice paper and fabric screen. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
Lissoni stands next to a pair of Toio floor lamps by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni for Flos, and Frank Gehry’s Cross Check chair, produced by Knoll. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
Lissoni stands next to a pair of Toio floor lamps by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni for Flos, and Frank Gehry’s Cross Check chair, produced by Knoll. Photography by Martina Giammaria.

He and Gaido — whose oversize long-exposure photographs of a human torso and Chinese terra-cotta sculptures are the living room’s main sources of colour — got married in December 2020, a few months before moving in. “We fought a lot about the floors,” says Gaido, a lively brunette from Tuscany, where the couple have a summer house near Forte dei Marmi. “He wanted white concrete. But in the end, I won,” she says, gesturing to the long-plank oak. Treated with a traditional combination of oil and wax, the floors have a “sculptural” quality, says Lissoni, who planned their pattern precisely.

But it’s their softening, soothing hue that really distinguishes them. For his previous apartment, located in a 1950s building a kilometre away and finished before he met Gaido, Lissoni chose bright white poured resin floors. Many of the pieces in the new apartment are holdovers from that life, including the living room’s Le Corbusier and Kjaerholm armchairs, pieces that might typically be seen in an office. But the oak floors, offset by a Moroccan area rug, give the sober furnishings a warm residential feel — “and they’re comfortable to walk on without shoes,” Gaido adds.

In the bedroom, an armchair by Shiro Kuramata for Cappellini, an early 20th-century Chinese rug, a Fontana Arte lamp by Gregotti Associati and a Brionvega vintage television on an antique Chinese bench. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
In the bedroom, an armchair by Shiro Kuramata for Cappellini, an early 20th-century Chinese rug, a Fontana Arte lamp by Gregotti Associati and a Brionvega vintage television on an antique Chinese bench. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
In the bathroom, a Componibili Classic modular storage unit by Anna Castelli Ferrieri for Kartell, a Fronzoni ’64 chair by A. G. Fronzoni for Cappellini, a custom-made sink by Salvatori and a Po bathtub by Claudio Silvestrin for Boffi. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
In the bathroom, a Componibili Classic modular storage unit by Anna Castelli Ferrieri for Kartell, a Fronzoni ’64 chair by A. G. Fronzoni for Cappellini, a custom-made sink by Salvatori and a Po bathtub by Claudio Silvestrin for Boffi. Photography by Martina Giammaria.

In a minimalist home marked by subtle combinations of distinct pieces, Lissoni aims above all for eye-catching repetition. “I don’t like having an isolated object,” he says. The living room’s iconic armchairs each come in pairs, along with two nearly identical Donald Judd side chairs. Even the apartment itself is arguably two apartments: the one inside, divided between a bedroom wing and an open-plan common area that includes the living room, dining room and kitchen; and another space, out on the 280-square-metre terrace, which has two areas set off by a perimeter of star jasmine vines and allées lined in potted hornbeam. Modern Milanese apartment buildings, in homage to the city’s historic fortresslike palaces, typically have garden-filled inner courtyards shared among the residents, while the apartments themselves often block the outdoors. A private green space like this, visible from much of the apartment, is a rare luxury.

On a shelf in the living room, an antique mask from Gabon, an industrial Italian lamp from the 1950s and a Dutch sculpture circa the 1920s. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
On a shelf in the living room, an antique mask from Gabon, an industrial Italian lamp from the 1950s and a Dutch sculpture circa the 1920s. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
In the bedroom, a pair of artworks by Andrea Schomburg on an antique Piedmontese dresser. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
In the bedroom, a pair of artworks by Andrea Schomburg on an antique Piedmontese dresser. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
Wedding portraits of Lissoni and his wife, Veronica Gaido, by Giovanni Gastel. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
Wedding portraits of Lissoni and his wife, Veronica Gaido, by Giovanni Gastel. Photography by Martina Giammaria.

Both the apartment and the terrace needed gut renovations, says Lissoni, who knows little about the previous owners other than that they seemed to have abandoned it: The last incarnation of the terrace — which now resembles a small park, even on a rainy fall day — was a concrete ledge; the interior was divided into a warren of small rooms. Lissoni knocked down all the walls except the load-bearing ones, then added sliding glass screens between the kitchen and the dining room and a network of doors in the bedroom wing. The couple use the second bedroom as a home office, and the new doors allow them to open up the private areas to create a loftlike effect, or seal them off entirely.

The building itself is an oddity: an 18-storey brick-clad high rise designed in the early 1950s by Alessandro Pasquali, an Italian Modernist architect who flourished during Italy’s fascist period. These days, with its massive masonry frontage and streamlined balconies, it vaguely suggests a Brutalist experiment from one or two decades later, but Orsina Simona Pierini, a professor of architecture at the Politecnico di Milano, Lissoni’s alma mater, says it’s rooted in the pre-World War II era, adding that the building’s placement, set back from the street, creates a kind of island in what is actually the heart of the city. The building’s unusual architecture reminds Lissoni of Le Corbusier’s work from the 1940s and ’50s; indeed, Modernism in all its forms has been a beacon for him since he started collecting high-Modernist design in the 1970s.

Another view of the living room. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
Another view of the living room. Photography by Martina Giammaria.

In the apartment’s office, pride of place is given to Charles and Ray Eames’s late 1940s La Chaise in white plastic. As elsewhere, surprising combinations abound. Just outside the main door, in the apartment’s private entryway, there’s a rare blue version of Sottsass’s Ultrafragola mirror; beyond the threshold, there’s a 300-year-old grey ceramic Chinese pot perched on a raw-steel stand designed by Lissoni. The primary bedroom’s sitting area has a neo-Modernist 1980s armchair by the Japanese designer Shiro Kuramata and a marble-topped 1950s Eero Saarinen table, but the bed itself — for now just a mattress — is placed with precision on a rich blue Chinese rug made around 1900.

Such exactitude belies the fact that Lissoni likes to change his mind. The apartment has two anchor pieces — a monochromatic Japanese screen from the late 19th century, now in the hallway, and an 18th-century Japanese cabinet, currently in the living room — that the architect says he kept moving in his mind from room to room. Now, when asked what he’d change within the apartment, he says, “Everything.”

On the 280-square-metre terrace, hornbeam trees in pots by Nespoli Vivai and camellia bushes. Photography by Martina Giammaria.
On the 280-square-metre terrace, hornbeam trees in pots by Nespoli Vivai and camellia bushes. Photography by Martina Giammaria.

However, he has unequivocal praise for one recent acquisition: a white ceramic pumo, an apple-esque ornament given to the couple as a housewarming gift. Considered good-luck charms in southern Italy, pumi usually come in pairs to be placed on either side of a home’s front gate. Here there is only one, used as a centrepiece on the dining table. Though Lissoni had to give up on the idea of pure white floors, and even compromised with his wife on their new Living Divani sofa, which is off-white at best, he got his wish with the pumo, which is 9010, if it’s anything.

Who knows how long it will remain on the table, though. One can imagine the homeowners continually re-evaluating and readjusting these artefacts, until the pristine apartment wears in a bit. Milan was hit hard by the pandemic, and that caused delays in finishing the home — which, in turn, gave Lissoni more time to experiment and redesign. “Luckily,” he recalls, “someone said, ‘Piero, basta!’” And so for now, at least, the home and its inhabitants stay still.

Too Much Is Never Enough

At a time when others are purging or downsizing, one Los Angeles collector is embracing a life of carefully sourced clutter.

Article by Kurt Soller

The objects and furniture dealer Jonathan Pessin’s eclectic collection overflows into his Los Angeles home. In the dining area, from left: a 1.8-metre fibreglass Coke bottle; an Alexander Calder-esque multicoloured metal hanging fish sculpture; a painting by the artist and furniture picker Robert Loughlin, drawn with a Sharpie on the back of a vintage painting; an industrial metal cabinet in original green paint with red handles; and a life-size papier-mâché sculpture of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. An amateur metal sculpture of Darth Vader sits atop the cabinet. Photography by Philip Cheung.The objects and furniture dealer Jonathan Pessin’s eclectic collection overflows into his Los Angeles home. In the dining area, from left: a 1.8-metre fibreglass Coke bottle; an Alexander Calder-esque multicoloured metal hanging fish sculpture; a painting by the artist and furniture picker Robert Loughlin, drawn with a Sharpie on the back of a vintage painting; an industrial metal cabinet in original green paint with red handles; and a life-size papier-mâché sculpture of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. An amateur metal sculpture of Darth Vader sits atop the cabinet. Photography by Philip Cheung.

It had taken several months of scouring flea markets before Jonathan Pessin finally found the weathered, hollow fibreglass Coke bottle that now stands sentry between the dining and kitchen areas of his loft in Los Angeles’ industrial Frogtown neighbourhood. Reportedly produced by the Coca-Cola Company circa the 1970s or 1980s, the almost-two-metre-tall sculpture was one that Pessin, a collector and dealer of strange objects and furniture, says he had been “thinking about seriously” for quite some time, a kind of white whale in his years-long pursuit of tracking down various quotidian items rendered in Claes Oldenburg-like proportions. He’d recently lost out on a plastic rotary phone fit for a giant (“It still haunts me,” he says), though who knows where it might have gone in a 140-square-metre space already overstuffed with a to-scale sculpture of the Modernist architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe; a massive leather chair modelled on the glove of the legendary New York Yankees baseball player Joe DiMaggio; a human eye-shaped bowling ball that lolls on Pessin’s couch in place of a throw pillow; and a giant papier-mâché pencil that lines the balcony railing of the bedroom upstairs. There, lying across the duvet, is a pair of jeans so large, it makes the mattress seem as if it’s taken off its own pants.

“I want the best, weirdest version of something, and I want to live my life like I’m in a sculpture garden,” says Pessin. He glances down from the sleeping alcove into a raw open-plan apartment with seven-metre-high, wood-beamed ceilings that’s filled wall to wall with his many aesthetic fixations: before his oversize phase — which he’s now renouncing, having noticed ironically large objects becoming trendy in design circles and online — there was the tangential-but-different papier-mâché one. Prior to that, he collected art with donkey iconography, including a beat-up painting in his stairway punctured with two bullet holes that “supposedly hung in a Mexican bar, where they used to get drunk and shoot at it,” he says. Over the years, he’s accumulated several heavily patinated brass Rubik’s cubes, an assortment of coin-operated kiddie rides and myriad hand-shaped sculptures in plaster or wood. Lately, he’s into perforated metal pieces and bringing outdoor furniture inside, whether the towering cactus-shaped planters that flank his 1970s B&B Italia white leather sofa, or the trio of textured fibreglass boulders that serve as his coffee table — for now, at least, until he once again rearranges the hundreds of wares within his home. (His friend the Los Angeles-based designer Pamela Shamshiri sometimes helps.) “I buy ridiculous things, but I like to think my taste is evolving,” he says. “In a way, this loft is like the inside of my brain.”

Pessin never intended to have this much stuff. Nearly a decade ago, he began building his object library — best viewed, perhaps, as a collection of many sub-collections, worthy of its own cataloguing system, not that he’ll ever be that organised — after falling for the thrill of the chase, that sense of unexpected discovery, at flea markets like the Rose Bowl in Pasadena, California. He now shows up before sunrise, flashlight in hand, ready to race through its hundreds of stalls as the doors open at 5am, hoping to snatch up treasure before the other pirates. This quest led him to estate sales, junk shops, art auctions and prop houses, where he’s always searching for an acquisition that might “somehow fill the hole in my heart,” he jokes, “though it rarely does.” And yet living with clutter may have always been his destiny: as a child in Brookline, Massachusetts, he collected rocks, went antiquing with his mother, rarely missed “The Price Is Right” — even today, he prides himself on knowing how much something should cost, a skill that proves useful when haggling — and slept in a converted closet under the stairs, which he says prepared him for the series of flexible, atypical Los Angeles dwellings that he’s inhabited since he moved to the city in his 20s to work in the film industry. “I gravitate toward heavy things and metal things, and I’m sure that has to do with some sort of permanence,” he says. “Glass makes me nervous. Ceramics make me nervous.”

Not long after Pessin became a staple on the collecting circuit, he had amassed enough inventory to become a dealer himself. At the time, he was mostly focused on the kinds of small objects and quirky knickknacks that now crowd his own tables and bookcases, as well as anonymous art, unsigned works that might — though probably not — have been made by a master, or just someone talented enough to create something visually interesting or at least replicate something well known.

In Pessin’s living room, a circa 1970s–80s painting inspired by the Richard Diebenkorn “Ocean Park” series hangs over a 1970s B&B Italia Diesis leather sofa and three fibreglass faux boulders. Photography by Philip Cheung.
In Pessin’s living room, a circa 1970s–80s painting inspired by the Richard Diebenkorn “Ocean Park” series hangs over a 1970s B&B Italia Diesis leather sofa and three fibreglass faux boulders. Photography by Philip Cheung.
A lip painting after Tom Wesselmann and a group of hanging wire sculptures after Ruth Asawa hang over a brass-riveted Sarreid- style three-panel room divider and a pair of three-metre vintage Sedgefield jeans on Pessin’s bed. Photography by Philip Cheung.
A lip painting after Tom Wesselmann and a group of hanging wire sculptures after Ruth Asawa hang over a brass-riveted Sarreid- style three-panel room divider and a pair of three-metre vintage Sedgefield jeans on Pessin’s bed. Photography by Philip Cheung.

In Pessin’s home office, tucked into a nook under his staircase, there’s a verdigris Jean Prouvé-esque desk beneath a wall-hugging facsimile of a geometric Frank Stella painting. He also owns works reminiscent of those by Ruth Asawa, Piet Mondrian, Alexander Calder, Richard Diebenkorn and many others; when he once tried to get a wooden sculpture authenticated by an auction house via representatives of the Colombian sculptor Fernando Botero, the artist himself wrote back in all caps that the piece wasn’t his, only further arousing Pessin’s suspicions.

As his name and collection grew, top interior designers such as Kelly Wearstler and Sally Breer also took notice; he soon began selling them art and furniture for their projects. “His perspective is so refreshing and irreverent,” says Breer. “He’s not precious, and he’s got a sense of humour, but there’s also a refined elegance to how he appreciates quality.” Pessin’s hobby had, in effect, become a full-time enterprise. He named it NFS, after the industry term “not for sale”, referencing his own habit of inquiring about items that other dealers weren’t willing to let go. At first, he sold directly from his own loft, which he moved into in 2014; he’s since taken over both an adjacent showroom and overflow storage space from artists who’ve given up their studios within the complex, a maze of low, grey stucco warehouses that were built around the 1940s. The only problem, Pessin says, is he “sometimes experiences pangs of pain” when a customer tries to purchase a piece he’s not ready to relinquish. And there are certain items that are, indeed, NFS, notably his series of works by the late 20th-century artist and designer Robert Loughlin. Employed by both Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat as a picker at New York’s flea markets and vintage stores, Loughlin repeatedly painted the same strong-jawed, cigarette-smoking beefcake visage on mugs, tables, chairs and other surfaces. As the lore goes, his eye was so discerning, he once found a genuine Salvador Dalí painting for $US40 that later sold at Sotheby’s for $US78,000, which perhaps explains Pessin’s fascination.

“I connect with things more than I connect with people,” Pessin says, pointing out several of his Loughlins. “But I don’t want to have to have so many things.” Still, he can’t seem to help himself — he shops seven days a week — and, really, what’s the harm in that? All this stuff will continue to glut our planet whether he buys it or not. And in an era that fetishises minimalism, upcycling and constant self-optimisation, the collector’s life is a reminder that there is, in fact, no moral imperative to the accrual or disavowal of objects. There are merely those who enjoy things — and those who don’t.

A version of this article appears in print in our fifth edition, Page 46 of T Australia with the headline:
“Too Much Is Never Enough”
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Visiting Louis Armstrong’s Miraculously Preserved New York Home

The jazz trumpeter’s mid-century house is one of the great unheralded design museums in America.

Article by M.H. Miller

In the master bedroom, the Armstrongs’ floral bedding beneath a crystal chandelier that’s partly reflected in the silver wallpaper. (Photography by Chris Mottalini)

Corona, Queens is an unassuming New York City neighbourhood. Nearby is the stainless steel Unisphere from the 1964 World’s Fair, and three miles west is Flushing’s Main Street, with its crowded dim sum parlors. Corona, though, feels like a suburb wedged into the city, and it’s here, on a quiet residential block, with modest century-old detached homes with small cement porches and aluminum siding, that you’ll find one of the country’s great unheralded design museums: the jazz trumpeter and bandleader Louis Armstrong’s miraculously preserved house, where he lived from 1943 until his death in 1971, at age 69.

Armstrong was born in New Orleans in 1901, dropped out of school as a child and was a successful touring musician in his early 20s. By 1929, he was living in Harlem, though as one of the most popular recording artists in the country, he traveled about 300 nights a year. In 1939, he met his fourth and final wife, Lucille Wilson, a dancer at Harlem’s Cotton Club. Lucille, who spent part of her childhood in Corona, decided it was time for her husband to settle down in a house, a real house, instead of living out of hotel rooms. (Even their wedding took place on the road, in St. Louis, at the home of the singer Velma Middleton.) One day, when Armstrong was away at a gig, she put a down payment of USD$8,000 (around USD$119,000 in today’s money) on 34-56 107th Street. She didn’t tell him she’d done this until eight months later, during which time she made the mortgage payments herself. (Lucille didn’t like being told no; as Hyland Harris, who manages the Louis Armstrong House Museum gift shop, told me, “There is a reason why she was the last wife.”)

The Crown stove in the kitchen was custom-made for the couple, and the cabinets were lacquered in a color similar to Lucille’s Cadillac. (Photography by Chris Mottalini)

From the outside, the two-bedroom house looks just like any other on the block, which was deliberate. Armstrong often referred to himself as “a salary man” and felt at ease alongside the telephone operators, schoolteachers and janitors of Corona, a neighborhood that, in a testament to how much of his life was spent in jazz clubs, he referred to affectionately as “that good ol’ country life.” One of the earliest integrated areas of New York, Corona was mostly home to middle-class African-Americans and Italian immigrants when the Armstrongs moved in. The demographics would change in the coming decades — Latin Americans began replacing the Italians in the ’60s, and now make up most of the neighborhood — but not much else. There was never a mass wave of gentrification or development here, and Armstrong himself was so concerned with blending in with his working-class neighbours that when his wife decided to give the house a brick façade, Armstrong went door-to-door down the block asking the other residents if they wanted him to pay for their houses to receive the same upgrade. (A few of his neighbours took him upon the offer, which accounts for the scattered presence of brick homes on the street to this day.)

The reel-to-reel tape machine in Armstrong’s den. (Photography by Chris Mottalini)

One wouldn’t know from the sidewalk that the interior of the house is a more or less perfect reflection of the Armstrongs’ life circa 1969, when Lucille made her final round of renovations during her husband’s lifetime with the help of her interior decorator, Morris Grossberg. Armstrong’s half-empty bottle of Lanvin cologne still sits on the dresser in the master bedroom; their old Electrolux vacuum cleaner is still stashed in a hallway closet. No two rooms are alike — “I guess ‘Rococo’ is the word I could use without losing my job,” Harris said of the overall aesthetic — though many are surprisingly modest, especially given Armstrong’s larger-than-life presence.

He is the only person ever to have hit records in the ’20s, ’30s, ’40s, ’50s and ’60s. He played behind the Iron Curtain during the Cold War and in the Democratic Republic of Congo during decolonisation in 1960, during which both sides of a civil war called a truce to watch him perform, then picked up fighting again once his plane took off. There are few American figures as legendary and beloved, and yet, as Harris told me, a common reaction people have upon entering his home is, “This reminds me of my grandmother’s house.” Certainly the living room recalls a ’60s vision of Modernism with a vaguely minimalist formality.

The gold sconces offer a glimmer of opulence, but the walls themselves are covered in a subdued, cream-colored wallpaper — the same wallpaper that covered them at least 50 years ago. It matches the upright piano standing against one wall, and the two twill couches. There’s also a small TV — one of the first on the block — that sits low to the floor, so that the neighbourhood children whom Armstrong would invite over (he never had kids of his own) could sit comfortably on the floor to watch Westerns.

The mirror-walled downstairs bathroom, one of Armstrong’s favorite rooms in the house, includes a marble bathtub, gold-plated swan fixtures and Rococo-inspired sconces above a carved marble sink created from an antique French birdbath. (Photography by Chris Mottalini)

Lucille considered this a starter home and spent several years trying to convince Armstrong to purchase a more lavish property. She would occasionally put down payments on properties in Harlem or on Long Island only for Armstrong to issue stop payments. He liked it in Corona, and after establishing roots for the first time in his life, he wanted to stay. So Lucille instead channeled her energy into frequent renovations; for the first three years they lived there, Lucille’s mother occupied the second floor; after she died, in 1946, the couple took over the whole house.

The most ostentatious room by far is the first-floor bathroom, which is covered in wall-to-wall gold-rimmed mirrors — as Armstrong once wrote, “It’s a pleasure to see yourself wipe your ass from all angles” — with marble floors, a marble bathtub and a marble sink converted from a birdbath. It feels more like something that belongs in a penthouse suite of a ’70s-era Las Vegas hotel; the care lavished upon the space is perhaps expected from a man who emphatically loved using the bathroom. (Armstrong even had a favorite brand of laxatives, Swiss Kriss, an herbal product that he’d mail sample packets of to fans who wrote to him, along with a picture of him sitting on the toilet, holding the laxatives and beaming his famous, enormous grin; his slogan, “Leave It All Behind Ya,” was printed beneath the image.)

No less startling is the kitchen, a room that exemplifies ’60s Futurism and was partially inspired by the space age exhibitions at the 1964 World’s Fair. There are clear acrylic shelving units, a blender installed into a countertop, a can opener built into a wall and a bespoke Crown stove with six burners, two broilers, two ovens and a small gold placard that reads “Custom Made by Crown for Mr. and Mrs. Louis Armstrong.” The cabinets are lacquered a deep blue — a shade that, in a certain light, looks like the colour of the Earth as seen from space, a hue similar to Lucille’s beloved Cadillac.

Upstairs — past the master bedroom, where Lucille’s tiny gold slippers still rest on the floor next to the king-size bed, and where the silver wallpaper is so shiny you can actually see your reflection in it — is the most moving room in the house. Armstrong’s personal den. To this day, it houses his liquor cabinet (still stocked as it was at the time of his death, including a half-drunk bottle of Jack Daniel’s), his desk and typewriter, his record collection, which included works by more avant-garde jazz masters (Miles DavisThelonious Monk) and his reel-to-reel tape machine, a gadget by which he documented his remarkable talent for the spoken word.

Armstrong left behind some 700 tapes, from recordings of his favorite interviews to Martin Luther King Jr.’s 1968 funeral. There’s even a tape of him discussing the room itself, which reveals a certain power dynamic in his and Lucille’s relationship: “She gave me a room and made a den out of it,” he says. “You know what I mean? That really knocked me out.” Growing up, he continues, “we couldn’t afford no den . . . we’d rather sleep in that room.”

The guest room of Louis Armstrong’s home in Corona, Queens, still has its original late 1960s botanical-print wallpaper and matching upholstery; the portrait is of Armstrong’s wife, Lucille. (Photography by Chris Mottalini)

How is it possible that this house has remained so perfectly intact? And why is it so little known? (The home, which opened to the public in 2003, gets about 18,000 visitors each year; Elvis Presley’s Graceland in Memphis, by comparison, draws about 600,000 people annually.) The second question can be explained partly by its location in Corona, a neighborhood that, unless you live here, takes some work to get to.

The first question is more complicated. It certainly helped that the Armstrongs had no children, though it’s still remarkable that the house wasn’t completely picked over following Armstrong’s death. (His 1971 funeral, for which Frank Sinatra and Dick Cavett were among the honorary pallbearers, was held in nearby Flushing Cemetery and drew thousands of spectators.) Much of the credit for its preservation is due to Lucille; after her husband died, she abandoned her desires for a fancier home and became the primary caretaker of his legacy. She stayed in the house until her own death in 1983, at age 69, and left it to the city; since 1987, it has been run by Queens College, which also owns Armstrong’s archives. The college had the foresight to put Lucille’s longtime housekeeper, Bessie Williams, whom she hired in 1972, on the payroll, and every couple of weeks, she’d clean the house as she always had; she retired not long before the house opened as a museum.

But the other factor was Armstrong himself, who despite dropping out of school in the fifth grade had a scholar’s proclivity for saving and indexing. His archive houses his trumpets, his library (which includes “War and Peace,” “Of Mice and Men” and the Bible), the original score from the first recording of “What a Wonderful World” in 1967 and also stranger fare: There’s a 1959 manuscript of a treatise on marijuana (“gage, as they so beautifully call it sometimes,” he writes in the opening sentence); boxes of Franz Schuritz lip salve, which he used prolifically enough (the trumpet was hard on Armstrong’s mouth) to receive a lifetime supply from the company; and a personally compiled joke book that includes an extensive index of punch lines (“Them ears,” “Prostate massage” and so on). Ricky Riccardi, who runs the Armstrong archive, said of this penchant for collecting and organizing: “He was very humble, he didn’t have an ego, but he was very self-aware of his accomplishments. He wanted to be the one to tell his own story.” The house, then, became its own archive, a record of his life off the road.

Riccardi recounted a story about how, during the postwar years, Armstrong would visit Chicago for gigs and stay at the Palmer House hotel downtown. When word would get out, as it always did, that Armstrong was in town, a line would form outside his room, and Armstrong would listen to people’s hardships and give them money: $20 here, $50, sometimes as much as $500. When Armstrong’s manager, Joe Glaser, asked why he’d give away money like that, Armstrong responded, “Money? What do I need money for? They’re gonna write about me in the history books one day.”

A Fabric Designer’s Wildly Colourful Home in Italy

Perched above Lake Como, the vibrant weekend house of Caterina Fabrizio is a shrine to pattern and texture.

Article by Tom Delavan

On the top floor of Caterina Fabrizio’s home in Como, Italy, Hermès Jardin d’Osier wallpaper, a sofa upholstered in Dedar’s Farniente outdoor twill, Giovanni Travasa for Bonacina 1889 armchairs with cushions in Dedar’s Tagomago, an African-inspired jacquard and a vintage kilm from India. (Photography byDiego Mayon)

The family-run Italian fabric house Dedar is beloved by the design cognoscenti not for its unifying aesthetic but for its freewheeling approach to pattern and texture. “Fabrics must arouse emotions, and in our approach, there is room for audacity,” says Caterina Fabrizio, 52, who, with her 50-year-old brother, Raffaele, runs the company that their parents founded in 1976 in Milan. Of course, what elicits that sort of response from them is highly idiosyncratic, informed as much by their travels as the architecture of Northern Italy, where they grew up.

The result is a collection that looks like no other and attracts clients such as the Italian director Luca Guadagnino, who featured one of the company’s abstract florals in his 2017 film, “Call Me by Your Name”; the Italian interior designer Michele Bönan, who installed their elegant-but-durable upholstery throughout the J.K. Place hotels in Rome, Florence, Paris and Capri; and Hermès, which has collaborated with Dedar on fabrics and wallpapers since 2011.

Dedar — short for design d’arredamento (design for interiors) — was started by Caterina’s father, Nicola Fabrizio, who began his career selling limited-edition lithographs and silk screens by postwar and pop artists, including Robert Rauschenberg and Cy Twombly to the design trade in the 1970s. After that business failed to take off, he and his wife, Elda, founded Dedar, producing hand-woven textiles and sourcing antique tribal rugs from around the world, often taking their two young children on buying trips in India, Thailand and Anatolia.

“We spent days in warehouses of rugs,” Caterina recalls. In the early 1990s, the Fabrizios decided to focus on artisanal fabrics after a series of fortuitous trade-show encounters; the first was with Jack Lenor Larsen, the éminence grise of late 20th-century American textiles, who began representing Dedar in the United States after becoming besotted with its offerings. Next came the French designer Jacques Garcia, who in 1995 chose one of Dedar’s damasks, patterned with plants and animals, to use throughout the Hôtel Costes in Paris. What set the firm apart was its dedication to experimentation, working with craftspeople to develop new techniques — synthetics that feel like silk, jacquards that appear woven in reverse — while incorporating rich colors and historical references as varied as Japanese xylography (woodblock printing) and the intricate flower-and-bird patterns found on 17th-century Chinese decorative screens.

In the living room, a chair found in Normandy, France, sits next to an African shield, while a 1960s hanging lamp by Hans Agne Jakobsson offsets sofas, pillows and curtains made with Dedar silks and velvets. (Photography by Diego Mayon)

Today, that combination of old motifs and new materials still defines Dedar. Caterina believes their creations, which are made by artisans throughout Italy, as well as France, Belgium and India, reflect a “contemporary way of seeing refinement”. Rendered in novel constructions, the company’s exquisite textiles are meant to be used in everyday environments — one of its most popular fabrics, SN Schwarzwald, may resemble a 17th-century verdure tapestry, with dense woodland scenes in deep greens and blues, but is in fact a printed linen-cotton-canvas blend with a water- and stain-resistant vinyl coating.

Caterina’s own weekend home, a nondescript 1960s-era box a short walk from the shore of Lake Como, enshrines this kind of easygoing luxury. The three-story, 3,550-square-foot open-plan Modernist house feels airy, even though it’s crowded with vintage furniture that she has arranged with no overarching vision in mind.

“Look around — there are very few things that are useful,” she says. “I buy things because they touch me, not because I need them.” She points to a rickety wooden chair in the living room that she found a few years ago in a Normandy junk shop: She anticipated its arrival for more than a year, even though it’s not at all comfortable. It’s just one example of what she calls the house’s “randomness”, from a print of Twombly’s “Roman Notes” (1970) — pulled from her childhood bedroom — in the living room to a trio of pendants from the Nilufar Gallery in Milan that project colourful shadows in the downstairs hallway.

On Fabrizio’s terrace overlooking the town of Como and the lake, a vintage chair upholstered in Dedar’s Etoile outdoor fabric. (Photography by Diego Mayon)

When she found the house in 2001, she enlisted the help of her brother, who worked as an architect before joining Dedar, and the Italian interior designer Vittorio Locatelli to reconfigure the unremarkable, flat-roofed structure. Raffaele took his cues not from the lake’s grand hotels or the sumptuous summer palazzi built by prominent Milanese families in the 17th and 18th centuries but from the region’s Rationalist architecture, particularly the Bauhaus-inspired buildings constructed in the 1930s by architects such as Giuseppe Terragni and Adalberto Libera (both of whose legacies have since been tainted by their Fascist connections).

Inspired by the unadorned rectangular structure and large windows of Terragni’s nearby Casa del Fascio, completed in 1936, Raffaele installed sheets of horizontal plate glass across the house’s facade and connected the three floors with a polished slate spiral staircase. He placed all three bedrooms on the ground floor, then opened up the top two floors to create a relaxed environment. “I saw that I could make a bad building from the 1960s into a good building from the 1930s,” he says, gesturing to the white walls and Lavagna stone and oak floors, which provide a neutral canvas for his sister’s magpie sensibility.

But Caterina’s passions are, unsurprisingly, best revealed in the house’s many fabrics. From the horizontal black-and-white stripes on the living and dining room curtains to the textured beige pillows on a nubby cotton jacquard bedspread in the main bedroom, the décor eschews all clichés of a traditional beach house, even though the hillside property overlooks the lake. The most striking example is the third-floor sunroom, which opens onto a terrace scattered with palm trees and prickly pear cacti. Its walls and ceiling are covered in wallpaper in a colourful jungle pattern that Dedar produced for Hermès. In the centre of the room is a pair of 1960s wicker chairs fabricated by Bonacina 1889, a company known for its rattan, upholstered in a geometric African-inspired woven silk. A faded red Indian kilim on the floor — which Caterina swaps out for a plusher rug in the winter — underscores the room’s layered, eclectic charm.

In the main bedroom, curtains in Dedar’s Tiger Silk, a raw silk jacquard embellished with a Tibetan-inspired design and lined with Blazer linen satin, alongside a fiberglass chair from the 1950s, a small model of the Menta totem designed by Ettore Sottsass in the 1960s and a Robert Rauschenberg print on the floor. (Photography by Diego Mayon)

Dedar, of course, wouldn’t exist without Caterina’s father and mother. Nor, she says, would her eye: “My crazy parents wanted to escape Milan and let us grow like wildflowers.” On the outskirts of the village where she spent her childhood, Fino Mornasco, six miles from her current weekend home, the Fabrizios lived in one of the 17th-century outbuildings on the estate of a grand villa, where their neighbours were artists. Both Caterina and Raffaele left the village for university in Milan, but the business, and especially the prospect of raising her two sons in a more laid-back environment, ultimately drew her back to Como in 2001. (Now that her children are adults, Caterina spends most weekdays at her apartment in Milan’s Brera district, an hour to the south.)

In the beginning, the decision to return to Como, like the design of her home there, required a real leap of faith — which, to Caterina, feels reminiscent of her fabric business. One is forced to imagine Dedar’s offerings on a chair or made into curtains with the blind hope that, once installed, such choices will elevate the space they’re in. “In the end, either you hate it or you love it,” she says. “But when you love it, you really remember it.”