Often referred to as “the Leonardo da Vinci of horology”, Abraham-Louis Breguet was the most significant inventor in watch history. Not content with delivering the very first wristwatch, Breguet also dreamed up the first self-winding watch and the first gravity-defying tourbillon among his many innovations. Yet his technical prowess was not confined to dry land. In 1815, the watchmaker was recognised with another accolade when King Louis XVIII named him the “Horloger de la Marine”, the official chronometer maker to the French Navy.

At a time when the wealth and security of a nation was largely determined by its power at sea, this appointment was a very big deal. Back then, timekeeping played a critical role in marine navigation, with chronometers used by ships to determine their longitudinal position. Absolute precision was vital to prevent a vessel from sailing off course. 

Today, this nautical heritage continues to provide the inspiration for Breguet’s Marine Collection, even if the focus has evolved from ships’ clocks housed in wooden boxes to wristwatches. What hasn’t changed is the commitment to robust functionality.  Pieces in the Marine collections are sturdily constructed with reinforced cases, crown protectors and rubber straps to ensure they can withstand the rigours of life at sea. 

Yet this rugged nature doesn’t come at the expense of Breguet’s trademark elegance. Watches in the Marine Collection still bear the features of refined classicism — such as the Roman numerals on the dials — for which Breguet is known. In other words, they’re nautical but nice.

Since its launch in 1990, the collection has gradually become enriched with a broad range of complications including a GMT, a chronograph and world-time options. But one watch that hits multiple touchpoints of Breguet’s identity is the Marine Tourbillon 5577, which launches the brand’s most celebrated complication out to sea.

Patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, the tourbillon was originally created to prevent gravity from disrupting the time-telling mechanism of a pocket watch. Now that watches are worn on the wrist, tourbillons are no longer necessary from a practical perspective, but the technical ingenuity of the complication ensures they’re still widely revered. 

The Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is a notably sleek example. At just 3mm high, the tourbillon calibre is remarkably thin, allowing the case to stay at a streamlined 9.3mm thick despite the watch’s 42.5mm diameter. Delivered in 18-karat pink gold with a slate-grey dial or 950 platinum with a blue dial, the watch exudes an unmistakeable sense of opulence, with the restraint of the design letting the tourbillon shine from its 5 o’clock position on the dial. The result is a truly head-turning watch whether you’re on land or sea. One suspects King Louis XVIII would approve.