Where To Eat, Drink, Stay and What To Do in Thirroul — Sydney’s Cooler Coastal Sibling

From a newly opened fish and chip shop with golden beef-fat chips to an above average hotel with uninterrupted views of the coastline.

Article by Hollie Wornes

A birds eyed view of Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach.A birds eyed view of Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach. Photograph courtesy of Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach.

It doesn’t matter which route you take from Sydney to Thirroul, you’re bound to experience the natural beauty surrounding this coastal town before you even arrive. Turn off the M1 at the Helensburgh exit, and you’ll find the Seacliff Bridge, a landmark of the area. The winding track floats above the sea, making you feel as though you could be in a scene from Mario Kart. Continue to the Bulli exit, where you’ll zigzag down the escarpment, catching fleeting glimpses of the sparkling ocean through the thick bush.

Just an hour and 15 minutes drive from the CBD, Thirroul still retains much of what makes Sydney great. You can find Marrickville’s Grifter beer poured from a number of taps, Manly’s Butter Boy cookies are stocked at Bread, Espresso &, and  locals sport outfits that wouldn’t look out of place in Newtown. However, Thirroul and its neighbouring suburbs — Austinmer, Coledale, Wombarra and Scarborough — move at a different pace, and the area’s best features reflect this slower lifestyle. From The Wombarra Bowlo that likely hasn’t had a fresh lick of paint since the ‘80s to the untouched ocean pools dotted along the coastline — and even the newer venues blend seamlessly into the town’s old-school charm. 

Below is a guide on where to eat, drink, stay, and what to do in Thirroul and its neighbouring suburbs — some within walking distance, others just a short drive away.

Eat Here:

Moore Street General, Austinmer

Moore Street General
Moore Street General. Photograph courtesy of Moore Street General.

Two things are certain for infrequent visitors at Moore Street General, a cafe and general store tucked down a residential street in Austinmer: you’ll likely never receive the same coffee mug twice or the exact same menu. The crockery is a delightful mix of finds that could have been plucked straight from your grandma’s cupboards, along with ceramics crafted by local makers. As for the menu, it changes depending what ingredients are in season, with house specials featuring ingredients pickled in-house.

The menu changes with the seasons, featuring dishes made from locally sourced ingredients and vegetables pickled in-house. An open kitchen occupies much of the interior space, filling the air with buttery aromas that promise delicious offerings, whether it’s the avocado toast topped with signature fermented chilli or a warming bowl of porridge.

Secure yourself a spot on a mismatched camping chair scattered around sunlit tables, often filled with locals and their friendly dogs lounging at their feet.

38 Moore St, Austinmer NSW 2515
Open from 7am, 7 days
Phone: 0466 248 559
moorestreetgeneral.com.au

Rosie’s Fish and Chips, Coledale

The signage out the front of Rosie's Fish and Chips.
The signage out the front of Rosie's Fish and Chips. Photograph courtesy of Visit NSW.

It’s not often you walk away from eating fried fish and potato without feeling completely ill, but that’s not the case at Rosie’s. This fish and chip shop quietly opened last year, though it feels like it could have been there for decades.

Behind it is a husband and wife duo, who also own Banh Xeo Bar in Rosebery. They claim to sell “proper” fish and chips, cooking locally caught fish fresh to order and producing everything — from potato scallops to the hand cut beef-fat dripping chips — in-house. Rosie’s is located in a charming old-school building at the top of Lawrence Hargrave Dr, a short stroll from the Coledale rock pool (a perfect destination to unwrap your dinner and watch the sunset). One of Sydney’s best chefs, Alex Prichard of Iceberg Dining Room and Bar’s even recommended it as one of his favourite eateries — and the beef-fat dripping chips certainly make a fine case for why it’s secured a spot on his list.

757 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Coledale
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 12pm
rosiesfishandchips.com.au

Ciro’s Pizza, Thirroul

A large “Grifter” sign hangs out the front of the facade at Ciro’s Pizza, a whitewashed pizzeria that opened in Thirroul last year. Not only does it serve the same beer as Sydney’s Inner West, but it also offers a similarly laid-back vibe — and its sourdough bases rival those of Inner West favourites like Bella Brutta and Westwood, all while embracing its local producers.

In addition to pizzas, which can be enjoyed on-site or taken away, guests will find a rotating selection of pasta specials — think Rigatoni alla Vodka and asparagus and pea risotto, along with a must-save-room-for tiramisu for dessert. Can’t get a seat? Pop across the road to the Franks Wild Years, a record bar which permits you to eat its puffy crusts there.

1 Raymond Rd, Thirroul
Open from 5pm Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
Phone: 0491 711 705
cirospizzathirroul.com

Stay Here:

Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach, Austinmer

Where to stay in Thirroul
The view from the Premium North East Two-Bedroom Penthouse. Photograph courtesy of Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach.

The coastline from Thirroul to Scarborough is primarily home to thoughtfully renovated residences and local landmarks, with one notable exception: the Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach. True to its name, the hotel is perched on the headlands in Austinmer, offering breathtaking views that stretch from Port Kembla up to Stanwell Park.

This accommodation features more than 50 serviced apartments, including penthouses and studios. The sea-view rooms boast large wrap-around balconies, providing uninterrupted vistas, and a soundscape of crashing waves to fall asleep and wake up to. Conveniently situated between Little Austinmer Beach and Sharky Beach, as well as having its own private pool, there are no shortage of swim spots.

And the views aren’t just reserved for the accommodations, there’s an expansive Brasserie and Bar onsite that visitors and staying guests are welcome to dine at seven days a week. Expect laid-back pub favourites — plus $12 cocktails and $9 pints on Fridays — paired with A+ service and a priceless outlook. With everything at your fingertips, it’s hard to want to leave, but some of Austinmer’s and Coledale’s best eateries are just a short stroll away.

Headland Ave & Yuruga St, Austinmer
Phone: 02) 4200 1099
headlandshotel.com.au

Coledale Beach Camping Reserve, Coledale

Where to stay in Coledale, camping
Coledale Beach Camping Reserve. Photograph courtesy of Visit Sydney.

Pitching a tent at Coledale’s camping reserve is as close to the ocean as you can get without getting wet. Nestled between the sand and the towering escarpment, the campsite offers a cosy, sheltered feel—perfect for a night in nature.

Guests can choose between a full off-grid experience or a powered site. Though the reserve is well-equipped with all you need to still be of comfort, featuring clean toilets, laundry facilities, a communal kitchen, and outdoor barbecues.

677 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Coledale
Phone: (02) 4267 4302
coledalebeach.com.au

Drink Here:

Franks Wild Years, Thirroul

Bars in Thirroul Frank's
A neon-lit sign lights the entry to Frank's Wild Years in Thirroul. Photograph by Hollie Wornes.
Bars in Thirroul.
The record bar is brimming with nostalgic trinkets, including a boxy black-and-white TV. Photograph by Hollie Wornes.

Step inside Frank’s Wild Years, and you’ll discover something new at every turn. This record bar is brimming with nostalgic trinkets, each seemingly having its own place within the shop. A lava lamp glows behind the bar, next to a boxy black-and-white TV that definitely shouldn’t still work in this age, while an impressive collection of cassettes is stacked on the back wall beside an even larger selection of records.

This local hotspot hosts various musicians when it’s not showcasing its hard-to-find vinyls. The cocktail menu is robust, starring various margarita options, from Mescal to Jalapeno, as well as beers and wines — and there’s a back deck where you can savour the last rays of the afternoon sun. Tucked away from the main street of Thirroul, look out for the neon sign, Frank’s may be hard to find, but it’s easy to love.

3/2 Raymond Rd, Thirroul
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 11am
Phone: 0492 990 881
frankswildyears.com

Scarborough Hotel, Scarborough

Where to drink Wollongong, The garden at The Scarborough Hotel.
The garden at The Scarborough Hotel. Photograph courtesy of The Scarborough Hotel.

It’s hard to understand the view that lies behind the facade of Scarborough Hotel until you make your way through and into the beer garden. Boom. This cliffside gem is all about elevated pub favourites with an easy-going atmosphere. Perch up under an umbrella and while the afternoon away, or in winter, retreat to the woodfire place inside and toasty up for a glass of red.

383 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Scarborough
Open Thursday to Sunday from 11am

Phone: (02) 4267 5444

thescarboroughhotel.com.au

Pickled Poet, Thirroul

Pickled Poet, what an excellent name for a venue — and this tiny wine bar lives up to it. The brick building, painted in vibrant yellow and orange, offers just a hint of the colourful atmosphere inside. Low-hanging pendant lights illuminate the room, with a light blue and grey tiled bar and curvaceous tables. It’s not just wine that shines here; the fully-fledged menu boasts everything from charcuterie to weekly pasta specials and signature cocktails like the berry-infused Pickled Poet Pink Lady.

Whether it’s an intimate date night or a casual drink, guests can find the perfect vibe to suit the occasion depending on where they sit, with the outside courtyard playing host to local live musicians.

368-370 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Thirroul
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 12pm
Phone: (02) 4202 9171
pickledpoet.com

Do This:

The Wombarra Bowlo, Wombarra

While the old-school charm of the region is evident at almost every turn, a visit to The Wombarra Bowlo truly transports you back in time. It occupies a prime piece of real estate, featuring three well-kept greens with views of the water.

Pull open the heavy sliding door to enter the club, where little has changed since it opened in 1956—aside from the walls collecting new names of ‘Champion’ trophies over time. Sticky floors and musky scents are hallmarks of this vintage gem, elements that only add to its character. 

578 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Wombarra
Open daily from 11am
Phone: (02) 4267 2139
bowlo.com.au

The Wombarra Bowlo
The Wombarra Bowlo. Photograph courtesy of Scarborough Wombarra Bowling & Recreation Club.

Coledale Markets, Coledale

On the fourth Sunday of every month, The Coledale Markets take over The Coledale Public School. Local vendors set up stalls showcasing fresh produce, from fruits and vegetables to meals from nearby businesses, like Wollongong’s Samaras Lebanese restaurant offering their signature wraps. It’s a delightful showcase of the region’s best foods, along with clothing stalls and artisans displaying their crafts.

Coledale Public School
Open on the fourth Sunday of every month
Phone: 0422 781 920
coledalemarkets.com

In New York, a Lunch With Extravagant Jewellery and Local Dim Sum

The designer Rolly Robínson gathered their close friends and collaborators to celebrate their new collection of jungle-themed pieces.

Article by Coco Romack

The designer Rolly Robínson, seated at top, hosted an intimate meal at a showroom in New York’s Chinatown.The designer Rolly Robínson, seated at top, hosted an intimate meal at a showroom in New York’s Chinatown. Photography by Linda Xiao.

When they were young, the jewellery and accessories designer Rolly Robínson moved with their family to the tree-dense outskirts of Sevierville, Tenn., a small city with a bronze statue of Dolly Parton at its centre. There, they spent their summers outside, playing make-believe in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains. “Living semi-off the grid among bugs and reptiles and wild animals,” Robínson said recently, “it unlocked this whole other part of my brain, this untapped place.” They held on to this love of fantasy and the outdoors when they undertook another transformative move, to New York City, in 2011.

Robínson setting the table for lunch at the showroom of the lighting design company Blue Green Works.
Robínson setting the table for lunch at the showroom of the lighting design company Blue Green Works. Photography by Linda Xiao.
Robínson finished each place setting with a different piece of Isshī jewelry. This beaded and pearl-studded silk brooch doubles as a barrette.
Robínson finished each place setting with a different piece of Isshī jewelry. This beaded and pearl-studded silk brooch doubles as a barrette. Photography by Linda Xiao.

On a Tuesday afternoon in early June, Robínson invited seven friends to a lunch celebrating both their 13th year living in the New York area and the launch of their 13th collection from their jewelry line, Isshī. “This is my 13 going on 13 event,” Robínson said with a laugh. The venue was the Chinatown showroom of the lighting design company Blue Green Works, co-founded by Robínson’s friend Peter B. Staples. Each place setting had a banana-leaf mat, and hanging over the table was a flared green glass pendant lamp that called to mind a palm tree; together, the details made the space feel like a jungle oasis. It was a fitting place to see Isshī’s resort 2025 collection, in whose press materials Robínson likened the experience of heartbreak to a plane crashing into the rainforest: Modular leather-cord necklaces, crystal-embellished bracelets and hand-felted lamb’s-wool corsages all resembled carnivorous plants.

Guests were invited to touch and try on the pieces, which were displayed on tables and plates throughout the space. Around 1:30 p.m., a delivery driver arrived carrying bags of dim sum, and while Staples doled out the food, Robínson offered their guests a brief toast: “Everyone here today has been a rock for me at some point,” they said, reflecting on the highs and lows of their life in the city, from becoming a regular presence in the Manhattan nightlife circuit to ending a nine-year relationship. After dessert, the group climbed one by one onto the building’s fire escape, balancing coffee mugs that sloshed with wine. And as they talked, the disco music emanating from the studio’s speakers melded with the frenetic honking of traffic down below.

An orchid-filled bouquet brightened the center of the table.
An orchid-filled bouquet brightened the center of the table. Photography by Linda Xiao.
For dessert, guests were offered oranges in a plastic pitcher.
For dessert, guests were offered oranges in a plastic pitcher. Photograhy by Linda Xiao.
Lighting the space were flared-glass pendants and floor lamps from Blue Green Works’s Palm collection.
Lighting the space were flared-glass pendants and floor lamps from Blue Green Works’s Palm collection. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The attendees:

Robínson, 36, invited friends and collaborators who’ve been important to the development of Isshī, including Staples, 39, and Robínson’s former partner and current housemate Jeauni Cassanova, 30, with whom they started the brand in 2019. Cassanova, a vintage clothing collector and TikTok creator, was the first guest to arrive, ambling up the stairs to the studio in a pair of eggshell-blue ostrich-leather pumps. The photographer Oscar Ouk, 35, arrived next, followed by the fashion designer Claire Sullivan, 30, and Sabrina Reales, 35, the founder of Sel Aer Studio, an agency that represents fashion and accessory lines including Isshī. Robínson greeted each new arrival with a “Hi, queen!” and a kiss on both cheeks.

The table setting included plastic tip trays and ceramic coffee mugs sourced from a neighbourhood kitchen supply store.
The table setting included plastic tip trays and ceramic coffee mugs sourced from a neighbourhood kitchen supply store. Photography by Linda Xiao.
Steamed dumplings from the restaurant Dim Sum Go Go. “I love dim sum. It’s easy,” Robínson said. “It’s very quintessential Chinatown, very New York.”
Steamed dumplings from the restaurant Dim Sum Go Go. “I love dim sum. It’s easy,” Robínson said. “It’s very quintessential Chinatown, very New York.” Photography by Linda Xiao.

The table:

To prepare for the event, Robínson and Staples picked up several sets of chopsticks, simple white plates and plastic tip trays from a nearby kitchen supply store and arranged them on a long wooden table. The centrepiece was a bouquet by the florist Audrey Hilfiger filled with white-edged purple orchids.

Some guests wore necklaces from Isshī’s resort 2025 collection as they ate.
Some guests wore necklaces from Isshī’s resort 2025 collection as they ate. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The food:

To keep the focus on their friends and the collection, Robínson opted to order in for lunch. From the restaurant Dim Sum Go Go — a neighbourhood favourite where Robínson often holds meetings — they selected takeaway dishes of golden-brown fried rice, plump vegetable dumplings and string beans glistening with sambal sauce. As Staples lifted the lid of a bamboo steamer, the group shrieked with excitement at the sight of some bubble-gum pink dumplings; the wrappers had been dyed with beet juice and filled with a mixture of lotus root, cabbage and jicama, which gave them a subtle crunch. Later, Robínson brought out a stack of salty almond cookies purchased from M & W Bakery, located on the studio building’s ground floor, and a plastic pitcher overflowing with oranges.

Peter B. Staples, the creative director of Blue Green Works, served the food while Robínson entertained their guests.
Peter B. Staples, the creative director of Blue Green Works, served the food while Robínson entertained their guests. Photography by Linda Xiao.
A batch of vegetarian dumplings filled with cilantro and black mushrooms.
A batch of vegetarian dumplings filled with cilantro and black mushrooms. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The drinks:

Guests brought their own beverages to share with the table. A bottle of orange wine from the Spanish label Gulp/Hablo — an easy-drinking mixture of verdejo and sauvignon blanc varietals — was passed around and poured into ceramic dinerstyle coffee mugs.

The music:

“Kind of summer island, beachy, tits out” is the atmosphere Robínson said they wanted to conjure with their playlist, which included the Canadian studio project Vera’s underground disco anthem “Take Me to the Bridge” and “Love in C Minor – Outro” by the French producer Cerrone. When the Italo-disco artist La Bellini’s gooey 1978 track “Satan in Love” came on, Robínson began to wiggle in their seat at the head of the table, moved by the sludgy bass line.

“It feels so full-circle and so appropriate to have my favorite New York City friends here with me celebrating,” Robinson said.
“It feels so full-circle and so appropriate to have my favorite New York City friends here with me celebrating,” Robinson said. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The conversation:

Rather than assigning seating, Robínson placed a different trinket on each plate and asked their friends to sit by the one that most resonated with them, sharing their reasoning with the group. Everyone is a doll to Robínson, the hospitality manager Zach Ligas, 35, announced to the room, as the designer helped clasp necklaces and bracelets onto their guests, who wore their picks for the duration of the event.

After the meal, everyone climbed onto the fire escape, which overlooks East Broadway.
After the meal, everyone climbed onto the fire escape, which overlooks East Broadway. Photography by Linda Xiao.

An entertaining tip:

Robínson is careful to ensure that every detail of a party is aligned — especially their outfit. For this lunch, they paired a striped Christopher John Rogers dress with a plush chartreuse hat to which they affixed a dumpling-shaped pin, a playful nod to the meal they’d be serving. “My aunt told me years and years ago growing up that presentation is everything,” they said. “And I don’t miss a detail, ever.”

Experience Total Alchemy at Jackalope, a Six Month-Long Culinary Series With Renowned Chefs

The luxury hotel invites top chefs such as Victor Liong from Lee Ho Fo and Tipo 00’s Andreas Papadaks to take up residency at its acclaimed restaurants.

Article by Hollie Wornes

The dining room at Doot Doot Doot, the ceiling covered in 10,000 golden, undulating lights installed by artist Jan Flook.The dining room at Doot Doot Doot, the ceiling covered in 10,000 golden, undulating lights installed by artist Jan Flook. Photograph courtesy of Jackalope.

When you arrive at Jackalope, nestled between Red Hill and Balnarring on the Mornington Peninsula, the first thing you’ll notice is the stillness in the air. Set on a 28-acre vineyard, the boutique property offers a peaceful retreat just an easy hour’s drive from Melbourne’s bustling CBD.

The idyllic location and 30-metre infinity pool have turned Jackalope into a beacon for travellers since it opened in 2017 under the stewardship of Louis Li – a, then, 28-year-old from Kunming in southern China, who moved to Melbourne to study filmmaking. Jackalope was the product of Kunming’s melded passions – art, design, food and storytelling. But it’s not just the hotel that has lured guests; its acclaimed restaurants, Doot Doot Doot and Rare Hare, alone are worth travelling for.

The view from a room at Jackalope.
The view from a room at Jackalope. Photograph courtesy of Jackalope.
Jackalope's pool deck at sunset.
Jackalope's pool deck at sunset. Photograph courtesy of Jackalope.

Doot Doot Doot is designed for special occasion dining, a fact that becomes apparent as guests enter the space with a ceiling covered in 10,000 golden lights, installed by artist Jan Flook. Here, executive chef Michael Wickham crafts a multi-course dining experience that changes seasonally depending on the local produce available.

Echoing similar ethos, Rare Hare is overseen by head chef Scott Burnes. The space exudes its own charm with a communal dining room and cosy atmosphere created by the the double-sided fireplace in the centre of the room.

To celebrate its seven-year journey, Jackalope is hosting a six month-long dining extravaganza, Total Alchemy, that brings together top chefs from across the region. 

The view of Jackalope from the vineyards.
The view of Jackalope from the vineyards. Photograph courtesy of Jackalope.

Total Alchemy kicks off on Saturday May 18 with a collaboration between Julian Hills from Navi in Yarraville and Doot Doot Doot’s Wickham. The menu has been carefully crafted to showcase local and native ingredients, with a fusion of foraging expertise.

“Navi’s dedication to local and native ingredients resonates with Doot Doot Doot’s ethos, albeit with our own unique Asian twist,” says Wickham.

“[Together], we’ll be celebrating the flavours of the region, while incorporating modern techniques.”

The multi-course affair starts with smaller dishes such as fermented garlic and salmon roe macarons as well as kangaroo with miso and finger lime. Mains include barbecued WA octopus with karaage mussel and black vinegar, and dry-aged duck. To finish up, there’s two desserts: a baked Fuji apple, pistachio and parsnip ice cream, and a salted wattleseed caramel and chocolate tart with desert lime.

A dish from the Doot Doot Doot x Navi collaboration.
A dish from the Doot Doot Doot x Navi collaboration. Photograph by Amy Whitfield.
Navi's head chef Julian Hills and Doot Doot Doot’s executive chef Michael Wickham.
From left: Navi's head chef Julian Hills and Doot Doot Doot’s executive chef Michael Wickham. Photograph by Amy Whitfield.

Other notable chefs on the program include Victor Liong from Lee Ho Fook, Jason Jones from Entrecote, and Josh Moroney from Nomad who will be taking up residency at Rare Hare. Tipo OO’s Andreas Papadaksi also joins the line-up, collaborating with Wickham in the kitchen at Navi.

“Tipo OO’s reputation for outstanding food has earned it numerous accolades and a loyal following,” Wickham says.

“What makes this partnership especially exciting is the opportunity to work closely with head chef Andreas Papadakis. We’re creating an Italian-leaning menu that no one has yet experienced at Doot Doot Doot.”

After a highly successful run last year, Total Alchemy will also see the return of yum cha. On offer, is a selection of Cantonese classics and reimagined favourites, that can be enjoyed over a game of Mahjong (a traditional Chinese tile game) and a famed Flaggerdoot Gimlet.

Visitors and staying guests alike are invited to book Total Alchemy events. The latter can also explore the region with complimentary rides from Jackalope’s car partner, Lexus, to discover the area’s most sought after gems.

It’s Always a Good Time for an Oyster Roast

How to host an outdoor seafood celebration during a Northeastern winter, according to the founders of the newsletter The Perfect.

Article by Vanessa Golembewski

McLaughlin and Ruggiero pouring the freshly roasted oysters directly onto the communal table.McLaughlin and Ruggiero pouring the freshly roasted oysters directly onto the communal table. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

The near lifelong friends Alexa Brazilian, Aaron Dickson Millhiser and Courtney Broadwater met in the late 1980s as children on Nantucket in Massachusetts, where their families would spend time each summer. They’d ride their bikes together and pass the days at Siasconset Beach, at the far eastern end of the island. In the years since, each has followed her own creative path: Brazilian, 43, is a writer, consultant and T contributing editor based in Little Compton, R.I.; Dickson Millhiser, 43, is a creative consultant, and a former head of men’s and children’s wear design at J. Crew, who lives in Manhattan; and Broadwater, 43, is an illustrator and artist based in Brooklyn. But the friends still keep in touch daily, often via a group text filled, alongside the usual news and jokes, with recommendations for things — from the best hot water bottle to an easy margarita recipe — that they love too much to keep to themselves.

People gathering oysters at a beach.
From left: Broadwater, Dickson Millhiser and Brazilian walked along nearby Lloyd’s Beach at sunrise to gather rockweed for the table. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

Over the years, the trio talked occasionally about sharing these finds with a larger audience and, last summer, “we all had a window of opportunity where we were finally able to focus our energies and actually do it,” says Brazilian. The result is The Perfect, a monthly newsletter of items that range from the newly discovered to the generations old. Since the project’s debut last August, tips have included nostalgic patterned socks from the French hosiery brand Bonne Maison; buttery anchovy-and-scallion biscuits from the Brooklyn bakery The Rounds; and a shark-shaped brass comb by the Brooklyn-based company Siren Song that evokes the scrimshaw versions carved by 18th-century whalers. There’s also an emphasis, says Broadwater, on “stuff we loved when we were younger, in our teens and 20s.” After the friends reminisced one day about a cap with a long waterproof bill that their parents wore in the ’80s, Dickson Millhiser tracked down the original, from the heritage brand Quaker Marine Supply, and it earned a spot in the September edition.

Lobsters roasting on a grill
Lobsters roasting on a grill designed by the Argentine chef Francis Mallmann. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

The Perfect also has an online shop, offering small batches of vintage items, like worn-in tote bags and denim shirts, embroidered with the newsletter’s name. The pieces were available at a pop-up shop that Brazilian, Dickson Millhiser and Broadwater opened in Newport, R.I., last summer, and the friends plan to host more events. “We’ve known each other through all sorts of chapters of our lives. But professionally, we’ve never really worked together before,” says Dickson Millhiser. “It’s exciting to learn about your friends in a way you didn’t think you could.”

People standing around a fire.
From left: Ross Millhiser, Ian Broadwater, Brazilian, Broadwater, Kate Marshall and Dickson-Millhiser drinking celery margaritas and oyster-infused Bloody Marys beside the fire pit. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

Last month, the three women decided it was time to finally celebrate their collaboration and landed on a meal that would hark back to their Nantucket childhood: an outdoor oyster roast. Though the sky was grey and threatening rain, this tradition of cooking oysters over a fire, one most commonly associated with the coastal Lowcountry region of the Southern United States, reminded the friends of summer clam bakes. Brazilian hosted at her home, a shingled 1820 Cape-style house, set amid fields and woodland just three miles from Little Compton’s South Shore Beach. When the small group of guests, a mix of family and old friends, arrived early in the morning to help set up — the day began with a trip to the shore to source table decorations — they were greeted by the smell of fires set for both cooking and keeping warm, and the nostalgic feel of summers gone by.

A table covered with craft paper topped with baguettes, rockweed and a variety of hot sauces for oysters.
Guests ate standing around a table covered with craft paper topped with baguettes, rockweed and a variety of hot sauces for oysters. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

The attendees:

Heading up the food was Gavin McLaughlin, 45, a chef and the owner of the catering and specialty foods company Portage Foods. His twin brother, Brazilian’s husband, Callum McLaughlin, 45, a co-owner of the Grey Lady oyster bar in New York, oversaw the drinks and played sous chef, and Brazilian’s mother, Suzanne Cavedon, 76, a Rhode Island native, shared stories of growing up in the Ocean State as each course emerged. Other guests included the interior designer Kate Marshall, 36, who is Gavin McLaughlin’s wife, and the Nantucket oyster farmer Terry Ruggiero, 38, who distress washes denim in oyster cages in the ocean for his clothing brand, Luna Salt.

Children awaiting the arrival of the oysters.
Children awaiting the arrival of the oysters. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.
McLaughlin and Ruggiero pouring the freshly roasted oysters directly onto the communal table.
McLaughlin and Ruggiero pouring the freshly roasted oysters directly onto the communal table. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

The table:

As is traditional for outdoor oyster roasts, the guests ate standing — around an old wooden table covered in brown craft paper and adorned with rockweed that Brazilian, Broadwater and Dickson Millhiser had gathered from the beach. Paper plates and napkins were arranged in wicker holders that once belonged to Cavedon. “Typically,” Dickson Millhiser said, “the things we love most are old.” (Both she and Brazilian were wearing wool fisherman sweaters passed down by their mothers.) Charcoal-infused baguettes from the boulangerie Le Bec Sucré in nearby Middletown doubled as a centrepiece before the rest of the food was served.

The bar.
The bar featured, from left, assorted napkins from Layla Brooklyn, Zojora, Salter House and Scarlette Ateliers; a jug from Porta; frog-patterned lowball glasses inherited from Callum’s grandmother; clear spiral-motif glasses from Porta; and an antique ice bucket. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

The food:

McLaughlin stuck mostly to classic Rhode Island dishes and ingredients. Lunch began with johnny cakes, cornmeal-based flatbreads, from Kenyon’s Grist Mill in Usquepaugh, served with homemade crème fraîche, chives and Kaluga Grand Cru caviar from Portage Foods. Cove oysters from the Sakonnet River, which were poured ceremoniously onto the table for the second course, were accompanied by lobster rolls made with lobsters from the family-owned local supplier Sakonnet Lobster, as well as hot dogs from Rhode Island’s beloved Saugy brand, topped with shavings of French black truffle. A semihard cheese, named Peach Fizz and similar to raclette, from the Little Compton dairy farm Sweet and Salty was melted over roasted potatoes from the nearby Wishing Stone Farm. And dessert consisted of roasted apples served with wild blueberry ice cream from the scoop shop Gray’s in Tiverton.

Ruggiero preparing a version of the Easy Wind cocktail.
Ruggiero preparing a version of the Easy Wind cocktail, which Brazilian discovered at the restaurant Lowland in Charleston, S.C. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

The drinks:

The bar was set up in a stone structure once used as a milking shed. Alongside local beers, the hosts served a celery margarita inspired by the celery-infused Easy Wind cocktail at the restaurant Lowland in Charleston, S.C., which Brazilian discovered on a recent birthday trip and included in the March edition of the newsletter. Also in rotation was the Grey Lady Oyster Bloody Mary, made with briny oyster-distilled Ostreida vodka and now, after receiving rave reviews at the party, on the menu at the Grey Lady in New York. Adding colour to the bar were pink-and-white tulips and yellow daffodils from the local flower stand Little State Flower Co.

Food being cooked over a fire.
The hot dogs, potatoes and lobster were among many locally sourced elements of the meal. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.
people gathering around the fire pit
Between courses, the group kept warm by gathering around the fire pit, where Brazilian had laid Pendleton blankets on the chairs. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

The music:

In lieu of a playlist, there was the cracking of oysters being shucked and laughter from the children, who ran laps around the fields and organised a race between two lobsters whom they named Fred and Sally.

The conversations:

In addition to the sharing of memories, talk centred on oyster-eating technique. Ruggiero, a onetime champion of the Grey Lady’s biannual oyster eating competition, told the group that the trick to winning is the bulk approach. “Put as many as you can fit in your mouth — then swallow,” he said. “I put in five at a time.”

McLaughlin preparing the lobster rolls
McLaughlin preparing the lobster rolls, made with shellfish from the local supplier Sakonnet Lobster. Photograph by Séan Alonzo Harris.

Two entertaining tips:

Brazilian acknowledges that punch bowls are often considered old-fashioned but defends them as “vastly underrated.” For first-time buyers, she recommends this one, featured in the December edition of the newsletter. “You can put ice in it, a signature drink, whatever,” she said. “It’s like a more beautiful version of a cooler.” McLaughlin also shared some advice: If you’re buying lobsters for rolls, ask for ones with missing claws. They’re a cheaper option, he explained, for a dish “that doesn’t need the showmanship” of displaying the whole crustacean.

Visit This: A Cafe and Art Space in a Former Berlin Amusement Park

At lunchtime, enjoy elevated German pub dishes served in the beer garden. In the evening, savour a small yet sophisticated menu.

Article by By Gisela Williams

The facade of the cafe and the interiors.The facade of the renovated 19th-century Eierhäuschen building, the new home of the cafe Ei 12437 (at right) and the multidisciplinary Spreepark Art Space. Photograph courtesy of Marina Hoppmann.

For more than two decades, the amusement park Spreepark, located along Berlin’s River Spree, was left abandoned. Its retro rides were engulfed by grass and vines, and its owner was eventually jailed for drug smuggling. In 2014, Spreepark was bought by the city of Berlin and handed over to the state-owned park management company Grün Berlin with the remit that they enliven it with culture and food. Now, the first project within the revitalized complex is open and ready for visitors: The Eierhäuschen, a recently renovated 19th-century building just outside the amusement park, contains Ei 12437, a cafe run by the restaurateur Jessica-Joyce Sidon and the chef Alexandra Strödel that began service in February, as well as the multidisciplinary Spreepark Art Space. (Its inaugural exhibition is a group show of artists — Marcus Maeder, Sabine Scho, Sissel Tolaas and Annett Zinsmeister — who were asked to research the park and present their findings.) For lunch, the beer garden serves elevated German pub dishes such as a hearty potato salad, pretzels and pickled herring and onion sandwiches. In the evenings it gets a bit more formal, with a small but sophisticated menu served in a dining room featuring parquet floors and carmine walls. The latest seasonal dishes include an Onsen tamago-style egg served with potato foam, and cabbage stuffed with Jerusalem artichoke and hazelnuts. ei-12437.berlin.

Hot Cross Buns Are the Pumpkin Spice Latte of Australia

The warmly spiced Easter bread and the arrival of fall are a match — and mania — made Down Under.

Article by Doosie Morris

Hot cross buns at Dench Bakers Wholesale in Melbourne.Hot cross buns at Dench Bakers Wholesale in Melbourne, Australia, March 14, 2023. Spiced with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove and citrus, hot cross buns are hitting store shelves and bakeries earlier and earlier each year. Photograph by Charlotte Orr.

Melbourne, Australia — To Kate Reid, the founder of Lune Croissanterie, there’s only one way to eat a hot cross bun: torn apart, with cold butter and salt, after a few minutes in the oven just to get the top crisp.

“The marriage of that cold, rich, creamy butter and the warming up of the bun just so it releases the spices and warms the fruit so it pops,” she said, “is truly the greatest combination.”

Reid’s love of the traditional Easter treat was born in a time, not so long ago, when Australians reserved hot cross bun consumption for one day of the year: Good Friday.

This year, she ate her first on Jan. 14.

She’s not alone in her eagerness. Once available for just one or two weeks of the year in Australia, hot cross buns have breached the confines of liturgical tradition to become an obsession that grips the nation as early as Boxing Day, the day after Christmas.

In a perfect storm of marketing opportunism, seasonal compatibility and a nostalgia for the time before the pandemic, hot cross buns — which have been enjoyed across the British Commonwealth for centuries — have established themselves as the pumpkin spice latte of Australia, a hotly anticipated, must-consume item of the season.

While the buns’ popularity has been on a steady rise for around a decade, the beginning of the pandemic just weeks before Easter in 2020 supercharged a desire for the reassuring embrace of citrus and spice.

Falco Bakery, which had opened its doors just four months before the holiday, sold more than 5,000 buns in the four days leading up to it. It has since become the purveyor of some of Melbourne’s most celebrated hot cross buns.

“People were really comforted by fats and carbohydrates,” said Jo Watson, a manager.

At Lune, the hot cross cruffin, a muffin-shaped, hot cross bun-spiced croissant, has been available since 2012. But the start of the pandemic and the croissanterie’s pivot to online orders sent demand into overdrive.

Hot cross bun-spiced croissant.
Demand for Lune’s hot cross bun-spiced croissant was so intense ahead of Easter 2020 that the bakery temporarily took down its website to stop orders. Photograph by Charlotte Orr.
Hot cross buns at Coles
Major Australian grocery stores like Coles offer traditional spiced hot cross buns — as well as buns flavoured with unexpected ingredients like burger sauce and Vegemite — as early as December. Photograph by Charlotte Orr.
Hot cross buns are made at Dench Bakers Wholesale in Melbourne.
Hot cross buns are made at Dench Bakers Wholesale in Melbourne, Australia, March 14, 2023. While the frenzy for fresh hot cross buns is always good for business, some bakers eagerly await the end of the season. Photograph by Charlotte Orr.

Australian fixation on the buns makes seasonal sense. With Easter arriving in autumn Down Under, the hot cross bun is the only festive offering inherited from British colonisers that remotely aligns with the country’s weather patterns. Unlike the indignity of preparing a roast turkey in high summer, when Christmas occurs, the buns are a spiced harbinger of cosier times ahead.

Elise Gillespie, a chief executive of Bakers Delight, the country’s largest franchise bakery, said that when in autumn Easter falls is one of the biggest determining factors of how many buns they sell. People would rather eat hot cross buns when it’s cool and rainy than when it’s hot and sunny, she said.

At artisanal bakeries and supermarkets, the buns are now sold in the hundreds of millions during their one- to three-month season. At Coles, one of Australia’s largest supermarket chains, sales of hot cross buns have soared by 40% in the past five years, and the company expects to sell more than 85 million hot cross buns this season. That’s more than three buns for every person in the country.

The hot cross buns flavour profile — cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove and citrus — has found its way into all manner of products, from the consumable (cereals, ice creams, alcohol) to the inedible (candles, body butter, beard oils) to the wholly unexpected (puppy probiotics).

“In the last 10 years it’s really become a staple flavour” of fall, said Lewis Maschmedt, the head brewer of Pirate Life Brewing, which has made a chocolate chip hot cross bun-flavoured stout since 2020. “It signals the change of seasons. It’s decadent, it’s comforting.

“We don’t have many culinary traditions of that sort in Australia,” he added. “This is one we now do.”

Mike Kellett’s macro foods business, Macro Mike, has produced a hot cross bun-flavoured protein powder for the past three years. The Easter collection is consistently his most successful seasonal launch. “People will buy 15 or 20 bags to see them through the whole year,” he said.

About 90 miles from Melbourne, the wood-fired Scotch oven at Australia’s oldest continually operating bakery, Maldon Bakery, turned out its first hot cross bun in Maldon, Victoria, nearly 170 years ago. Rebecca Barnett, the owner, said she and her team would be “hung, drawn and quartered” by the townspeople if they deviated from the “fair dinkum” recipe: “The best one, the only one, the right one,” she said. “With mixed spice, vine fruits and citrus peel.”

A chocolate hot cross bun-flavored stout from Pirate Life Brewing, in Melbourne, Australia.
The craft brewery Pirate Life began offering a chocolate hot cross bun-flavored stout three years ago to reflect the increasing cultural significance of the Easter pastry. Photograph by Charlotte Orr.
Hot cross buns being made.
Tony Dench’s yeast and sourdough-based hot cross buns generated long lines at his cafe almost two decades ago. He now sells them through his wholesale business, Dench Bakers. Photograph by Charlotte Orr.

While hot cross bun mania feels like boom time for some, for others, the novelty has worn off. Eighteen years ago, Tony Dench’s hot cross buns, made with both yeast and sourdough as well as whole puréed oranges, were a revelation in Melbourne, putting the insipid offerings of industrial bakeries to shame. For years, lines snaked around the block of his then cafe.

These days, the oversaturated marketplace feels less like a celebration to Dench, who now runs Dench Bakers Wholesale, and more like an obligation. The buns may be good for business and good for morale, he said. “But it’s good when they finish.”

This article originally appeared in The New York Times in April 2023.