food and wine Archives • T Australia

The Best Restaurants for an Indulgent Valentine’s Day Dinner

If your partner’s love language is food, you’re in luck. Here, T Australia editors share their 10 favourite restaurants offering Valentine’s Day specials this year, ensuring your significant other’s appetite is left completely satisfied.

Article by Bailey Finn

food and wine / 11 Feb 2025

Photograph courtesy of Aster.

There’s no better way to celebrate Saint Valentine’s Day than sampling some of the finest dishes in the Australian dining scene. T Australia editors have put together a curated list of the best dining experiences on offer this year, specifically tailored to create an unforgettable Valentine’s Day set to leave your loved one’s heart (and stomach) full.

La fête de Saint-Valentin at Loulou Bistro, Milsons Point

Valentines Dinner 2 — Photograph courtesy of Loulou Bistro.

Inspired by Parisian classics and all-around contemporary European food favourites, Loulou Bistro knows how to dial up the romance this Valentine’s Day. Dine in and enjoy the best of head chef, Ned Parker’s carefully curated three-course Valentine’s menu, available exclusively on February 14. Beginning the evening with a glass of Moët & Chandon Champagne on arrival for each guest, you can expect a feast fit for royalty featuring steak tartare classique, confit duck leg, John Dory, pommes frites and more. Finish with a watermelon and rose granita or mousse au chocolat with preserved cherry and sablé, inspired by the essence of Valentine’s Day itself. Available from 5pm on Friday,February 14 from$125 per person.

Valentine’s Golden Hour at Hacienda, Sydney

Valentines Dinner 3 — Photograph courtesy of Hacienda.

Situated in the heart of Circular Quay, sit back and take in the sunset harbour views during Golden Hour at Hacienda. With specialty cocktails including Valentine Clover Club and Valentine Chocolate Old Fashion, the menu features lobster and sesame toastadas served with caviar and Hacienda’s signature late-night fries. Available from 3pm to 6pm on Friday, February 14.

Barentain Dē at Genzon, North Sydney

Valentines Dinner 9 — Photograph courtesy of Genzon.

North Sydney’s Genzo has expertly distilled the art of cooking with modern Japanese essence to create a truly spectacular dining experience. Their full à la carte menu will be available all night – from kushi-stikku (grilled skewers) to premium wagyu beef, fresh sashimi and ohashi (handmade noodles) – paired with selections from their sake room and full beverage list. Available from 5pm on Friday, February 14.

Love is on Fire at Poetica, North Sydney

Valentines Dinner 4 — Photograph courtesy of Poetica.

At first glance, the North Sydney restaurant and bar Poetica appears tailor made for a relaxed and lavish evening on the day of love. The custom three-course set menu including a glass of Veuve Clicquot on arrival, alongside yellowfin tuna with embered tomato and verjus vinaigrette, Skull Island prawn with fermented chilli vinaigrette, dry-aged rib eye, and vanilla custard tart for dessert.Available from 5pm on Friday, from $145 per person.

Sky High Valentine’s at Aster Rooftop Bar, Sydney

Valentines Dinner 5 — Photograph courtesy of Aster Rooftop Bar.

Whether a pre-dinner aperitif or end-of-evening nightcap, celebrate Valentine’s Dayyear with a luxury moment above the city’s iconic harbour. Sip on a glass of Taittinger and sample half a dozenSydney Rock Oysters while taking in the270-degree view that only gets better as the evening goes on. Available February 14-15, from $90.

Valentine’s Dinner at The Charles Brasserie, Sydney

Valentines Dinner 10 — Photograph courtesy of The Charles Brasserie.

For an indulgent, no detail spared Valentine’s Day supper, start your night with a glass of Ruinart Champagne Brut at The Charles Brasserie, situated right in the heart of Sydney, Next, indulge in head chef Billy Hannigan’s carefully curated three-course menu, which includes yellowfin tuna with confit tomato and fig leaf, premium Ranger Valley Wagyu with seasonal sides, and a ed berry and vanilla vacherin, accompanied by house-made petit fours. Available from 5pm at $165 per person.

Bar Morris, Sydney

Valentines Dinner 6 — Photograph courtesy of Bar Morris.

Enjoy authentic Roman cuisine this Valentine’s Day, including from Morris’ signature house-made focaccia bread, eggplant involtini and Morris lasagna with slow-cooked bolognese ragu, ham and fiordilatte mozzarella. Nestled within Sydney’s lively CBD, this offer is only available on Friday, February 14.

Harboard Hotel, Freshwater

Valentines Dinner 7 — Photograph courtesy of Harboard Hotel.

If beach-bound romance is more your style, Harbord Hotel (located in Sydney’s Northern Beaches) channels a fiesta flair this year — you might even catch their mariachi band. Following a complimentary glass of Louis Roederer on arrival, spoil your special someone with Harboard Hotel’s exclusive four-course menu including a tartare of snapper, prawn roll and wagyu beef cheek, alongside pink beer and paloma specials. From $120 per person.

Peregrin, Merewether

Valentines Dinner 8 — Photograph courtesy of Peregrin.

If you’re situated around the Newcastle area and desire an elevated dining experience, set your maps for Merewether Beach and indulge in a four-course set menu and feast. Dishes include a Tartare of kingfish, Charcoal Roasted Huon salmon and triple cooked potatoes and Wagyu beef cheek – to a shared Raspberry Bombe Alaska for dessert, served with a complimentary glass of Louis Roederer. Available from 5pm, from $120 per person.

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How to Host a Cozy, Candlelit Dinner Party Like a Danish Designer

Malene Malling arranged a relaxed gathering at her studio to celebrate the third anniversary of her fashion label, La Bagatelle.

Article by Ellie Pithers

food and wine / 29 Dec 2024

People sitting at a dinner table with canvas from a studio used as a tablecloth.

Malling used canvas from her studio as a tablecloth. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente

In 2021, Malene Malling launched her women’s wear label, La Bagatelle, with a concise edit of seven styles, expecting to sell just a few pieces to friends. But within six hours, all of the one-of-a-kind offerings on her website had sold out, and orders for the remaining made-to-order pieces were coming in so quickly that Malling had to pause sales. “I remember adding up the figures with my daughter on a calculator and being astonished,” said Malling, a former magazine editor and publisher as well as the founder of the creative agency that bears her name.

In the time since, La Bagatelle — which offers clothing made by independent tailors in Copenhagen from artisanal and vintage fabrics Malling finds on her travels to places such as India, Japan and Nepal — has continued to grow. And on a Friday evening in January, Malling decided to toast that success with a small gathering that would double as a celebration of the new year. It was the first dinner Malling had hosted in her terrazzo-floored studio, which occupies the ground level of a 1920s building in the Frederiksberg neighbourhood that once housed a cheese shop and, later, a delicatessen. Malling’s creative agency, which produces multimedia campaigns and branding strategies for lifestyle companies, is on the second story. La Bagatelle, she said, is meant to be “a label for women who like to have a glass of wine in the evening, a good meal and a weekend spent swimming or reading.”
The party, she hoped, would have “the energy of something truly personal, with special attention to detail.”

The Amanda Jacket, Malling’s feminine take on an English riding jacket named after Lady Amanda Harlech, the English horsewoman and former muse to the designer Karl Lagerfeld, hangs in a corner of the studio. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

Shelves stacked with magazines. — The studio shelves are stacked with Malling’s collection of magazines, including the 125 issues of the Danish fashion publication Cover, which she published over a 12-year period. Nestled in various nooks are trinkets including an ostrich egg and a sculpture by the Danish artist Lisbeth McCoy. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

To that end, Malling filled the space with armfuls of fresh flowers arranged in her collections of antique French vases and George Jensen pitchers, mixing in eclectic glassware from Akua Objects, a Copenhagen-based line co-founded by her friend the stylist Annika Agerled, who was one of the guests. On each plate, Malling placed a seating card tied to a lavender sachet made from scraps of handwoven Indian cotton left over from La Bagatelle’s shirt production. “I spent summers in the South of France visiting my grandparents, and we always used to come home with lavender bags,” she said. Though there was no dress code, the women all turned up in La Bagatelle designs. “It was the first dinner of the year,” said Malling, “and it had the feeling of new beginnings.”

The attendees:

Malling, 49, hosted 19 friends and colleagues as well as one family member, her 16-year-old daughter, Ines. The guests included the artistic director of the Royal Danish Ballet, Nikolaj Hübbe, 56, and his partner, the perfumer Emmanuel Martini, 42; the hotelier Alexander Kølpin, 58; the model and filmmaker Emma Rosenzweig, 33, and her husband, the artist Tal R, 56; the stylist and designer Sophia Roe, 27; the jeweler Olga Bonne, 35; and Agerled, 31, and her partner, Karl-Oskar Olsen, 49, the founder of the cycling-apparel brand Pas Normal. The creative director of Malling’s agency, Rasmus Skousen, 49, was also there. “I like close-knit relations in my professional life as well as in my private life,” Malling said.

Salads and bread at the table. — The chefs Mikkel Egelund and Morten Kaltoft prepared a meal that was “light, fresh, but still comforting.” Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

The food:

Malling enlisted the chefs Mikkel Egelund and Morten Kaltoft, who run several restaurants around the city and recently joined forces to open the Italian bistro Locale 21, “the most-hyped place in Copenhagen right now,” according to Malling. The goal was to offer a counterpoint to rich, heavy, holiday-season food. “When you get to January, you need something light, fresh, but still comforting,” she said. The menu included sea bass tartare with marjoram and tomato, lobster salad with fennel and blood orange and anchovy toast and deep-fried zucchini, followed by a main course of artichoke risotto and turbot with black cabbage. Dessert was lemon sorbet, served in hollowed out lemons, and polenta cake.

A jeweller eating food at the table. — Dainty silver cutlery such as a fork with a handle in the shape of a kestrel, made by the Danish jeweller and guest at the dinner Olga Bonne, was arranged along the table.Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

Bows tied around champagne flutes. — Malling began tying bows around glasses in 2022, when she first moved into the studio and it felt a little bare. For Christmas she favors red ribbon, switching them for yellow at Easter. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

The drinks:

Malling began with bubbly Italian Pétillant Naturel pecorino from Abruzzo to set the mood. With dinner there were bottles of French chardonnay and Graci’s Etna Rosso, a robust Sicilian red.

A plate of artichoke risotto. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

Guests sitting on a long trestle table lit with tall candles. — A long trestle table was lit by antique Swedish candleholders and handmade taper candles from the Danish brand Ester & Erik. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

The music:

“I have friends who are really into music, so I usually let one of them do the playlist or D.J.,” said Malling. She charged her colleagues Rasmus Skousen and Jimmy Duus, 34, an art director at her creative agency, with putting together a laid-back mix that included “Summer Blue” by the Japanese pop group Bread and Butter, “Miks’ Tulet Mun Luo” by the Finnish soul musician Kosonen and “Swahili” by the Greek singer-songwriter Nick Carr.

Amalfi lemon sorbet. — Amalfi lemon sorbet was served for dessert. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

Seating cards at the dinner table. — Each seating card was tied to a sachet of dried lavender for scenting cupboards. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente

The table:

To cover both the two long trestle tables and the dining benches, Malling commandeered a roll of the inexpensive canvas she uses to make prototypes of new clothing styles. Atop that neutral background, she set out handblown glasses with pink rims from La Bagatelle’s recent collaboration with Akua Objects and her own glossy, green-glazed plates from La Tuile à Loup, a pottery store in Paris. Short-stemmed muscari from a local florist were placed in jars on the table, while vases of anemones and mimosa sat on other surfaces around the room. Scented candles from La Bagatelle’s collaboration with Martini, the French perfumer, were interspersed among the blooms and silver cutlery, some of it made by Bonne.

The conversations:

As guests caught up after the holidays, Olsen made an impromptu toast. Raising a glass with a violet velvet ribbon tied around its stem, he thanked Malling for always making “an extra effort.” The ribbons were a case in point, a small detail Malling felt added a “feminine” note to the proceedings, much like the handmade pink taper candles from the Danish label Ester & Erik that she placed in an antique Swedish chandelier. “In another space — at home, perhaps — it would be over the top,” she said of these unabashedly pretty additions, but here, the “raw, industrial studio balances them out.”

Dark room. Table lit by candles alone. — The overhead lights were turned off once people had been seated, so the table was lit by candles alone. Photograph by Charlotte de la Fuente.

An entertaining tip:

Malling adopts a more-is-more policy when it comes to guests, food, flowers and candles. “If someone wants to bring a friend visiting from abroad or a new girlfriend or boyfriend, there’s always room at my table,” she said, adding that she prefers “lots of candlelight because skin and eyes just shine better in candlelight. And I really think you can never have too many flowers. You need to feel a generosity of spirit.”

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Where To Eat, Drink, Stay and What To Do in Launceston

From a family-friendly brewery and dining hall to an iconic bakery and a historic river cruise.

Article by Katarina Kroslakova

food and wine, Travel / 16 Dec 2024

A new accommodation wing by Core Collective architects at the Georgian-era Leighton House in Evandale.

It takes just seconds after biting into the first hot slice of pizza at Du Cane Brewery and Dining Hall to realise that UNESCO was onto a good thing by recognising Launceston as a City of Gastronomy, one of only 49 cities in the world to be awarded the honour.

As ubiquitous as black truffles are on winter menus around the country right now, let’s take a moment to appreciate that Australia’s very first black truffle was grown and harvested in northern Tasmania, at The Truffle Farm, in Deloraine, 25 years ago. Now that’s culinary impact. And Australia’s internationally renowned cooler-climate wines? They don’t come much better than those from Tasmania.

The island’s famously lush pastures, fertile soil, clean air and water, and temperate climate result in such fine fresh produce that very little needs to be done with it before it can shine on the plate. Not only are Tasmania’s farmers justifiably proud of their crops, they’re also enthusiastic about getting the public involved in the harvest process.

Launceston has built a solid reputation for both its produce and spirit of culinary innovation. Locals mingle with admiring tourists at farmers’ markets, restaurants, harvest experiences, orchards and cellar doors; from whisky and wasabi to butter and beef, the region’s 150-plus growers and producers have plenty to offer.

Tasmania’s off-season (during the cooler winter months) is, for the travelling foodie, one of the best times to visit, with relatively cheap airfares, green landscapes, heaps of harvesting opportunities and very little excuse needed to try the region’s pinot noirs next to a roaring fire.

Du Cane Brewery and Dining Hall

To get the culinary show on the road within minutes of landing, consider hot pizza, cold beer and good vibes at Du Cane. Fast establishing itself as a favourite hub for locals as well as a perfect ambassador for the state to tourists, the venue was Launceston’s first brewpub, housed in a 1,500-square-metre warehouse (formerly an outdoor goods store) near the city’s Princes Square park.

My pizza picks are The Forest (broccoli, chilli, garlic, ricotta and mozzarella on a white base) and All the Goods (ham, sausage, mushroom, artichoke, olive and mozzarella on a tomato base). Try all of the beers.

The other best bit about this family-friendly place? An epic climbing wall for the kids.

60/64 Elizabeth Street, Launceston
Open from noon, 7 days
Phone: (03) 6323 6000
ducanebrewing.com.au

Bread + Butter

The exterior of the bakery. — Bread + Butter / Photograph by Ness Vanderburgh, courtesy of Bread + Butter.

a breakfast stack. — Bread + Butter / Photograph by Ness Vanderburgh, courtesy of Bread + Butter.

What was meant to be a one-off visit for this feature quickly turned into a daily habit. That’s the problem with these amazing Launceston institutions: they get under your skin (or should that be onto your tastebuds?) and you need to come back day after day to try new things, or reorder favourite things.

First and foremost this is a bakery, with excellent coffee and flaky, hot pastries, all crafted on site using Tasmanian Butter Co cultured butter and 100 per cent Australian flour, every day of the year.

The longer you stay, the wider the selection. Omelette, tick. Breakfast egg-and-bacon roll, tick. Filled ficelle (thinner versions of a baguette), tick. One afternoon, we scrambled inside 15 minutes before closing time and picked up sourdough, cheese, meats and fruit juice for an indulgent evening picnic.

70 Elizabeth Street, Launceston (check the website for the other Bakeshop and Bakery locations in the city)
Open daily from 7am
Phone: (03) 6124 2299
breadandbuttertasmania.com.au

Tamar River Cruises

Cataract Gorge river cruise. Photograph courtesy of Tasmania Tourism. Tasmania.com.

A short and purposeful 50-minute adventure cruise will show the time-poor the best of Launceston’s Seaport district. See heritage properties, shipwrecks and, of course, the spectacular Cataract Gorge.

Home Point Cruise Terminal,
Home Point Parade, Launceston
Operates all year, in all weather
Phone: (03) 6334 9900
tamarrivercruises.com.au

Stillwater

“Where’s your reservation for lunch?” asks the cruise tour guide. “Oh, ‘Still’ something. Still Water, I think? They had a kids’ menu, so I booked it.” The guide’s jaw drops.

Turns out Stillwater is not only exemplary in its service, wine list, seasonal food and views of the Tamar Valley, it has also been one of Tasmania’s most awarded restaurants for 20-plus years.

A historic 1830s flour mill on the waterfront has been renovated to include five-star boutique accommodation, Seven Rooms, alongside the modern Australian restaurant.

As for the aforementioned kids’ menu, the fish and chips with local leaf salad was hands-down the best fish I’ve had in years. Finish your dining experience with a local whisky and make a note to return.

2 Bridge Road, Launceston
Open Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner
Phone: (03) 6331 4153
stillwater.com.au

Black Cow Bistro

You know you’ve landed on a really great steak place when, after leaving, your camera roll contains zero images of the actual steak because you were too busy scoffing it.

This iconic bistro was founded in 2008 in a former butchery, and premium dry-aged, free-range, grass-fed, hormone-free Tasmanian beef is a given. The children’s meal of an eye fillet steak with organic vegetables was truly FOMO-worthy. Friendly, knowledgeable staff, a considered wine list and a cosy atmosphere complete a great night out. Leave room for entrées (local oysters) and dessert (crème brûlée).

70 George Street, Launceston
Opens 5:30pm, Monday
to Saturday
Phone: (03) 6331 9333
blackcowbistro.com.au

Josef Chromy Wines

A pastoral views at Josef Chromy vineyard, outside Launceston.

This idyllic, sprawling 61-hectare vineyard is just a 10-minute drive from Launceston city. The winery’s cellar door and restaurant are set in an original 1880s homestead, with lake views and pristine English gardens at your disposal. But first you’ll need tastings and lunch for some sustenance. Here, award-winning cool climate wines include sparkling, pinot gris, riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, merlot, botrytis riesling and ruby pinot port.

The restaurant offers panoramic views of the vines, but your focus will soon be on the house-made sourdough with slabs of cultured butter, Tasmanian Pacific oysters, cured ocean trout, wood-grilled lamb rump and artisanal cheeses. Matching wines are a must.

370 Relbia Road, Relbia
Opens 10am, 7 days
Phone: (03) 6335 8700
josefchromy.com.au

The Truffle Farm

Very few menu ingredients elicit wide-eyed enthusiasm like black truffles. Rare, super-seasonal and luxurious, truffles can elevate almost any dish, from scrambled eggs to pizza, steak to ice cream. Translate that enthusiasm into the possibility of finding and harvesting your own truffles then enjoying them later, and the paddock-to-plate concept becomes so much more tantalising.

Regions including Western Australia and Canberra offer truffle hunting experiences, but considering Tasmania’s heritage as the first region to harvest the Périgord black truffle in Australia, the state’s truffle status is unbeatable.

The trademark experience at The Truffle Farm consists of an educational session, a delightful meet-and-greet with one of the trained truffle-hunting dogs (ours was named Marley), a guided forage through the forest, some expert digging and finally the reward of a “black diamond”. We found six. The euphoria is only heightened by the resulting mountain of fresh truffle shavings on a freshly made cheese pizza, accompanied by local wine.

844 Mole Creek Road, Deloraine
Seasonal opening hours
(truffle season December
to September)
Phone: 0437 849 283
thetrufflefarmtasmania.com.au

Meander Valley Vineyard

A final pit stop on an amazing culinary journey, this family-run winery offers not only great wines, but also good anecdotes, sheep to feed, organic fruit trees, a chill-out zone for the kids and delicious food. Oh, and it’s dog-friendly, too. Its outdoor deck is perfect for family celebrations — we witnessed two large groups spending quality time together.

Best of all, visitors can now stay on site in brand new accommodation, complete with a wood burner and a sunken bathtub out on the terrace.

46 Montana Road, Red Hills
Open after winter break, from August 1; online cellar door open
Phone: 0431 645 153
meandervalleyvineyard.com.au

Leighton House

Minutes away from Launceston airport is one of the grandest holiday estates in town. Leighton House is a spectacular Georgian home, built in 1840, recently restored and extended to provide utmost luxury in a spectacular regional setting.

With room for two or 12 guests, Leighton House is perfect for entertaining, relaxing, enjoying and restoring: think panoramic vistas, unforgettable sunsets, crisp air and clear skies.

The original part of the estate consists of three ensuite bedrooms, all oversized and all featuring floor-to-ceiling windows to appreciate the views. The newly appointed wing was conceptualised by the Hobart-based architects Core Collective, with the additional space designed to complement the ornate original features of the home. Here, guests can now enjoy an open-plan kitchen, dining area and living room with a fireplace, while the upstairs is the ultimate teen retreat, with six double bunk beds and a games room including a pool table. An extensive contemporary art collection from some of Australia’s best artists is a unifying feature throughout the property.

Sometimes, just staying in and chilling out is the best way to holiday. Guests will need no further encouragement to do so once they see the sandstone yoga and meditation platform with hot tub, sauna, shower and fire pit. Oh, and those magic Tasmanian mountain views.

Leighton House, Evandale
Cost: from $900 per night (two-night minimum)
[email protected]
leightonhouse.com.au

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How to Host a Lunch Like a Parisian Gallerist

The artist Bianca Lee Vasquez, a co-founder of the art space Sainte Anne Gallery, regularly gathers friends for laid-back meals at her apartment, just a few blocks away.

Article by Alice Cavanagh

food and wine / 14 Dec 2024

“My grandma used to make these,” said Lee Vasquez, at center, clapping, of the two tres leches cakes that the chef Isabel Garcia provided for dessert. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

A typical gathering — day or night — at Bianca Lee Vasquez’s home in Paris’s Second Arrondissement ends with dancing, usually to ’70s disco or to salsa by artists like Johnny Pacheco and Celia Cruz. Lee Vasquez, 40, who has Cuban-Ecuadorean heritage, trained in classical and contemporary dance in Miami and at the Alvin Ailey Theatre in New York before moving to Paris 20 years ago. But she’s now best known for her multidisciplinary art practice, which ranges from textile installations like “Webmaking Ritual II” (2017), for which she wove strips of fabric around the trees in Paris’s Palais Royal garden, to meditative performances like “Dirt Series” (2021), in which she explored the power of microbes, working soil between her fingers to activate its healing properties. And while she often incorporates movement and gesture into her work, it’s in her living room, among friends, that she tends to really let loose.

Interior of an apartment. — Lee Vasquez’s white-walled apartment has a large mezzanine with two bedrooms and a view of the building’s inner courtyard. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

A dining table set for lunch. — Lunch was served at the dining table in the open-plan living area. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

For the past few years, that room has served as an occasional extension of Sainte Anne Gallery, which Lee Vasquez founded with her friend Masha Novoselova, 39, a Russian-born model turned art director, in 2021. One of a new cohort of dynamic, independent Paris art spaces, the small contemporary gallery focuses on female artists who, like Lee Vasquez, are interested in our relationship with the natural world. “We want to give them a voice and a safe space,” she said recently. (The gallery’s current show, “Fruits of Labor,” is its first to exclusively feature work by men: the Guadeloupe-born French mixed-media artist Kenny Dunkan and the German sculptor Stefan Knauf.)

The dining table set for a party. — “I always try to bring friends together,” Lee Vasquez said. “It’s not about work relations, or diplomacy, just delicious food and a place to be oneself.” Photograph by Su Cassiano.

Lee Vasquez’s home — a calm, loft-like duplex in a 17th-century apartment building — is just blocks from Sainte Anne, so opening-night parties tend to end there, and she often hosts meals for the gallery’s artists and extended community. On a rainy Sunday in February, she held one such gathering, a lunch for her friends and collaborators, in an effort to liven up a particularly somber Paris winter (there had been just 38 hours of sunlight in the previous 29 days). In contrast to the gloom outside, the apartment — which Lee Vasquez shares with her two sons, Vasco, 12, and Esteban, 11, and a pair of parakeets, Peggy and Pegasus — was lush with potted plants and flooded with light thanks to its 16-foot-tall windows. Lunch itself was laid-back, with a loose start time and a buffet format, so that guests could come and go, and help themselves to food, as they pleased. “A sit-down meal rarely happens as I have a problem limiting my guest list,” said Lee Vasquez. But the semi-improvised approach suits her well: “I like people to talk to whoever they like, to be free, to move around.”

Guest at a dinner party. — Guests mingled before helping themselves to the food. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

The attendees:

The 20 guests included Dunkan, 36, and the curator Simon Gerard, 30, who worked on the current exhibition; Knauf, who’d been there for the show’s opening a week before, was back home in Berlin. There was a Latin American contingent consisting of the Uruguayan-born, Paris-based sculptor Katharina Kaminski, 30, who had an exhibition at Sainte Anne last month; the Cuban curator Dayneris Brito, 28; and the Peruvian architect Diego Delgado-Elias, 44. Other friends included the Serbian designer Ana Kraš, 39; the former Paris Opera dancer Emilie Fouilloux, 40; the Australian designer Kym Ellery, 40; and the Australian actress Melissa George, 47. The couple behind the up-and-coming Paris architecture studio Festen, Charlotte de Tonnac and Hugo Sauzay, both 37, who live in the neighborhood, also stopped by — as did the Italian fashion designer Giambattista Valli, 56, his partner Farid Rebbali, 45, and their son Adam, 11. “Bianca has an art for bringing people together; she connects people, and everyone is so different,” said Valli. “It doesn’t feel typical of Paris.”

guests talking at dinner party. — The sculptor Katharina Kaminski, left, talking with the designer Ana Kraš, right. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

Guests sitting at dinner table. — Despite the day’s gray skies, Lee Vasquez’s home was flooded with daylight thanks to its large industrial-style windows. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

The table:

The meal was laid out on the dining table, on a mix of vintage silver and glass platters that Lee Vasquez has collected over the years. The porcelain tableware and water vessel, as well as a vase set on a nearby plinth, were made by the ceramist Elsa Brunet, whose pottery classes in Saint-Germain Lee Vasquez has taken for the past two years. The mismatched white linens and glasses were flea market finds.

A radicchio salad tossed with toasted walnuts. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

The food:

Lee Vasquez asked the 26-year-old Estonian chef Monika Varšavskaja, who specialises in Eastern European-inspired, vegetable-centric food, to prepare the meal. She served two puff pastry pies — one filled with cabbage and another stuffed with chopped boiled eggs and dill — alongside a stack of flatbreads and dishes of pickles, olives and anchovies. Platters of blanched brussel sprouts and a rainbow-coloured radicchio salad added colour to the table. “It’s typical market food from my childhood, made from humble ingredients — so perfect for a Sunday lunch,” said Varšavskaja. For dessert, the British-Spanish chef Isabel Garcia, 29, brought two tres leches spongecakes, which sparked a playful debate about the origins of the beloved Latin American dessert, serving them alongside a platter of passion fruit and pawpaw.

The drinks:

Katkoot prosecco — a delicate, fragrant sparkling wine made in Treviso, Italy — flowed freely, followed later by Ecuadorean coffee from Lee Vasquez’s father’s farm in the country’s northern Cotacachi region.

The music:

Brito, who Lee Vasquez says often gets the dancing started, put together a soulful, eclectic playlist that included the crowd favourite, “Thinking of You” by Sister Sledge, as well as “Yeah!” by the American Latin jazz musician Tito Puente and “Mali Cuba” by the Malian-Cuban supergroup AfroCubism.

Guests sitting in a living room after the dinner party is over. — The meal was eaten standing or seated with a plate balanced on the knees. In the foreground, at centre, is a sculpture by Kaminski. The tapestry on the ottoman is by Lee Vasquez. Photograph by Su Cassiano.

The conversations:

A mix of English, French and Spanish could be heard throughout the afternoon as small groups formed and dispersed in the living room. Lee Vasquez, Garcia and Fouilloux were hatching a plan for a food-inspired artist’s residency at Fouilloux’s family winery, Castello Di Cigognola, in Lombardy, Italy. And Kraš and Ellery discussed the new Paris design fair Matter and Shape, at which both were both planning to exhibit new object-led collections.

An entertaining idea:

Lee Vasquez likes to tailor her dress codes to individual guests — just to keep things interesting. “I got a message that said, ‘Dress like spring,’ so I chose all these florals. But then I met a woman coming in, and she said the dress code is neutral,” Kraš said, with a laugh. “But you look so good in color! I wanted you to pop,” Lee Vasquez explained. “I don’t like it when everyone comes looking the same, so I told Diego to wear brown, and I wanted Katharina to wear beige and match the décor.” Ellery and George, both eight months pregnant, decided to opt out: “I’m just happy I made it here,” said George.

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Where To Eat, Drink, Stay and What To Do in Thirroul — Sydney’s Cooler Coastal Sibling

From a newly opened fish and chip shop with golden beef-fat chips to an above average hotel with uninterrupted views of the coastline.

Article by Hollie Wornes

food and wine, Travel / 23 Sep 2024

A birds eyed view of Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach. Photograph courtesy of Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach.

It doesn’t matter which route you take from Sydney to Thirroul, you’re bound to experience the natural beauty surrounding this coastal town before you even arrive. Turn off the M1 at the Helensburgh exit, and you’ll find the Seacliff Bridge, a landmark of the area. The winding track floats above the sea, making you feel as though you could be in a scene from Mario Kart. Continue to the Bulli exit, where you’ll zigzag down the escarpment, catching fleeting glimpses of the sparkling ocean through the thick bush.

Just an hour and 15 minutes drive from the CBD, Thirroul still retains much of what makes Sydney great. You can find Marrickville’s Grifter beer poured from a number of taps, Manly’s Butter Boy cookies are stocked at Bread, Espresso &, and locals sport outfits that wouldn’t look out of place in Newtown. However, Thirroul and its neighbouring suburbs — Austinmer, Coledale, Wombarra and Scarborough — move at a different pace, and the area’s best features reflect this slower lifestyle. From The Wombarra Bowlo that likely hasn’t had a fresh lick of paint since the ‘80s to the untouched ocean pools dotted along the coastline — and even the newer venues blend seamlessly into the town’s old-school charm.

Below is a guide on where to eat, drink, stay, and what to do in Thirroul and its neighbouring suburbs — some within walking distance, others just a short drive away.

Eat Here:

Moore Street General, Austinmer

Two things are certain for infrequent visitors at Moore Street General, a cafe and general store tucked down a residential street in Austinmer: you’ll likely never receive the same coffee mug twice or the exact same menu. The crockery is a delightful mix of finds that could have been plucked straight from your grandma’s cupboards, along with ceramics crafted by local makers. As for the menu, it changes depending what ingredients are in season, with house specials featuring ingredients pickled in-house.

The menu changes with the seasons, featuring dishes made from locally sourced ingredients and vegetables pickled in-house. An open kitchen occupies much of the interior space, filling the air with buttery aromas that promise delicious offerings, whether it’s the avocado toast topped with signature fermented chilli or a warming bowl of porridge.

Secure yourself a spot on a mismatched camping chair scattered around sunlit tables, often filled with locals and their friendly dogs lounging at their feet.

38 Moore St, Austinmer NSW 2515
Open from 7am, 7 days
Phone: 0466 248 559
moorestreetgeneral.com.au

Rosie’s Fish and Chips, Coledale

The signage out the front of Rosie's Fish and Chips. Photograph courtesy of Visit NSW.

It’s not often you walk away from eating fried fish and potato without feeling completely ill, but that’s not the case at Rosie’s. This fish and chip shop quietly opened last year, though it feels like it could have been there for decades.

Behind it is a husband and wife duo, who also own Banh Xeo Bar in Rosebery. They claim to sell “proper” fish and chips, cooking locally caught fish fresh to order and producing everything — from potato scallops to the hand cut beef-fat dripping chips — in-house. Rosie’s is located in a charming old-school building at the top of Lawrence Hargrave Dr, a short stroll from the Coledale rock pool (a perfect destination to unwrap your dinner and watch the sunset). One of Sydney’s best chefs, Alex Prichard of Iceberg Dining Room and Bar’s even recommended it as one of his favourite eateries — and the beef-fat dripping chips certainly make a fine case for why it’s secured a spot on his list.

757 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Coledale
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 12pm
rosiesfishandchips.com.au

Ciro’s Pizza, Thirroul

A large “Grifter” sign hangs out the front of the facade at Ciro’s Pizza, a whitewashed pizzeria that opened in Thirroul last year. Not only does it serve the same beer as Sydney’s Inner West, but it also offers a similarly laid-back vibe — and its sourdough bases rival those of Inner West favourites like Bella Brutta and Westwood, all while embracing its local producers.

In addition to pizzas, which can be enjoyed on-site or taken away, guests will find a rotating selection of pasta specials — think Rigatoni alla Vodka and asparagus and pea risotto, along with a must-save-room-for tiramisu for dessert. Can’t get a seat? Pop across the road to the Franks Wild Years, a record bar which permits you to eat its puffy crusts there.

1 Raymond Rd, Thirroul
Open from 5pm Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
Phone: 0491 711 705
cirospizzathirroul.com

Stay Here:

Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach, Austinmer

Where to stay in Thirroul — The view from the Premium North East Two-Bedroom Penthouse. Photograph courtesy of Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach.

The coastline from Thirroul to Scarborough is primarily home to thoughtfully renovated residences and local landmarks, with one notable exception: the Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach. True to its name, the hotel is perched on the headlands in Austinmer, offering breathtaking views that stretch from Port Kembla up to Stanwell Park.

This accommodation features more than 50 serviced apartments, including penthouses and studios. The sea-view rooms boast large wrap-around balconies, providing uninterrupted vistas, and a soundscape of crashing waves to fall asleep and wake up to. Conveniently situated between Little Austinmer Beach and Sharky Beach, as well as having its own private pool, there are no shortage of swim spots.

And the views aren’t just reserved for the accommodations, there’s an expansive Brasserie and Bar onsite that visitors and staying guests are welcome to dine at seven days a week. Expect laid-back pub favourites — plus $12 cocktails and $9 pints on Fridays — paired with A+ service and a priceless outlook. With everything at your fingertips, it’s hard to want to leave, but some of Austinmer’s and Coledale’s best eateries are just a short stroll away.

Headland Ave & Yuruga St, Austinmer
Phone: 02) 4200 1099
headlandshotel.com.au

Coledale Beach Camping Reserve, Coledale

Where to stay in Coledale, camping — Coledale Beach Camping Reserve. Photograph courtesy of Visit Sydney.

Pitching a tent at Coledale’s camping reserve is as close to the ocean as you can get without getting wet. Nestled between the sand and the towering escarpment, the campsite offers a cosy, sheltered feel—perfect for a night in nature.

Guests can choose between a full off-grid experience or a powered site. Though the reserve is well-equipped with all you need to still be of comfort, featuring clean toilets, laundry facilities, a communal kitchen, and outdoor barbecues.

677 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Coledale
Phone: (02) 4267 4302
coledalebeach.com.au

Drink Here:

Franks Wild Years, Thirroul

Bars in Thirroul Frank's — A neon-lit sign lights the entry to Frank's Wild Years in Thirroul. Photograph by Hollie Wornes.

Bars in Thirroul. — The record bar is brimming with nostalgic trinkets, including a boxy black-and-white TV. Photograph by Hollie Wornes.

Step inside Frank’s Wild Years, and you’ll discover something new at every turn. This record bar is brimming with nostalgic trinkets, each seemingly having its own place within the shop. A lava lamp glows behind the bar, next to a boxy black-and-white TV that definitely shouldn’t still work in this age, while an impressive collection of cassettes is stacked on the back wall beside an even larger selection of records.

This local hotspot hosts various musicians when it’s not showcasing its hard-to-find vinyls. The cocktail menu is robust, starring various margarita options, from Mescal to Jalapeno, as well as beers and wines — and there’s a back deck where you can savour the last rays of the afternoon sun. Tucked away from the main street of Thirroul, look out for the neon sign, Frank’s may be hard to find, but it’s easy to love.

3/2 Raymond Rd, Thirroul
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 11am
Phone: 0492 990 881
frankswildyears.com

Scarborough Hotel, Scarborough

Where to drink Wollongong, The garden at The Scarborough Hotel. — The garden at The Scarborough Hotel. Photograph courtesy of The Scarborough Hotel.

It’s hard to understand the view that lies behind the facade of Scarborough Hotel until you make your way through and into the beer garden. Boom. This cliffside gem is all about elevated pub favourites with an easy-going atmosphere. Perch up under an umbrella and while the afternoon away, or in winter, retreat to the woodfire place inside and toasty up for a glass of red.

383 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Scarborough
Open Thursday to Sunday from 11am
Phone: (02) 4267 5444
thescarboroughhotel.com.au

Pickled Poet, Thirroul

Pickled Poet, what an excellent name for a venue — and this tiny wine bar lives up to it. The brick building, painted in vibrant yellow and orange, offers just a hint of the colourful atmosphere inside. Low-hanging pendant lights illuminate the room, with a light blue and grey tiled bar and curvaceous tables. It’s not just wine that shines here; the fully-fledged menu boasts everything from charcuterie to weekly pasta specials and signature cocktails like the berry-infused Pickled Poet Pink Lady.

Whether it’s an intimate date night or a casual drink, guests can find the perfect vibe to suit the occasion depending on where they sit, with the outside courtyard playing host to local live musicians.

368-370 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Thirroul
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 12pm
Phone: (02) 4202 9171
pickledpoet.com

Do This:

The Wombarra Bowlo, Wombarra

While the old-school charm of the region is evident at almost every turn, a visit to The Wombarra Bowlo truly transports you back in time. It occupies a prime piece of real estate, featuring three well-kept greens with views of the water.

Pull open the heavy sliding door to enter the club, where little has changed since it opened in 1956—aside from the walls collecting new names of ‘Champion’ trophies over time. Sticky floors and musky scents are hallmarks of this vintage gem, elements that only add to its character.

578 Lawrence Hargrave Dr, Wombarra
Open daily from 11am
Phone: (02) 4267 2139
bowlo.com.au

The Wombarra Bowlo. Photograph courtesy of Scarborough Wombarra Bowling & Recreation Club.

Coledale Markets, Coledale

On the fourth Sunday of every month, The Coledale Markets take over The Coledale Public School. Local vendors set up stalls showcasing fresh produce, from fruits and vegetables to meals from nearby businesses, like Wollongong’s Samaras Lebanese restaurant offering their signature wraps. It’s a delightful showcase of the region’s best foods, along with clothing stalls and artisans displaying their crafts.

Coledale Public School
Open on the fourth Sunday of every month
Phone: 0422 781 920
coledalemarkets.com

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In New York, a Lunch With Extravagant Jewellery and Local Dim Sum

The designer Rolly Robínson gathered their close friends and collaborators to celebrate their new collection of jungle-themed pieces.

Article by Coco Romack

food and wine / 19 Jul 2024

The designer Rolly Robínson, seated at top, hosted an intimate meal at a showroom in New York’s Chinatown. Photography by Linda Xiao.

When they were young, the jewellery and accessories designer Rolly Robínson moved with their family to the tree-dense outskirts of Sevierville, Tenn., a small city with a bronze statue of Dolly Parton at its centre. There, they spent their summers outside, playing make-believe in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains. “Living semi-off the grid among bugs and reptiles and wild animals,” Robínson said recently, “it unlocked this whole other part of my brain, this untapped place.” They held on to this love of fantasy and the outdoors when they undertook another transformative move, to New York City, in 2011.

Robínson setting the table for lunch at the showroom of the lighting design company Blue Green Works. Photography by Linda Xiao.

Robínson finished each place setting with a different piece of Isshī jewelry. This beaded and pearl-studded silk brooch doubles as a barrette. Photography by Linda Xiao.

On a Tuesday afternoon in early June, Robínson invited seven friends to a lunch celebrating both their 13th year living in the New York area and the launch of their 13th collection from their jewelry line, Isshī. “This is my 13 going on 13 event,” Robínson said with a laugh. The venue was the Chinatown showroom of the lighting design company Blue Green Works, co-founded by Robínson’s friend Peter B. Staples. Each place setting had a banana-leaf mat, and hanging over the table was a flared green glass pendant lamp that called to mind a palm tree; together, the details made the space feel like a jungle oasis. It was a fitting place to see Isshī’s resort 2025 collection, in whose press materials Robínson likened the experience of heartbreak to a plane crashing into the rainforest: Modular leather-cord necklaces, crystal-embellished bracelets and hand-felted lamb’s-wool corsages all resembled carnivorous plants.

Guests were invited to touch and try on the pieces, which were displayed on tables and plates throughout the space. Around 1:30 p.m., a delivery driver arrived carrying bags of dim sum, and while Staples doled out the food, Robínson offered their guests a brief toast: “Everyone here today has been a rock for me at some point,” they said, reflecting on the highs and lows of their life in the city, from becoming a regular presence in the Manhattan nightlife circuit to ending a nine-year relationship. After dessert, the group climbed one by one onto the building’s fire escape, balancing coffee mugs that sloshed with wine. And as they talked, the disco music emanating from the studio’s speakers melded with the frenetic honking of traffic down below.

An orchid-filled bouquet brightened the center of the table. Photography by Linda Xiao.

For dessert, guests were offered oranges in a plastic pitcher. Photograhy by Linda Xiao.

Lighting the space were flared-glass pendants and floor lamps from Blue Green Works’s Palm collection. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The attendees:

Robínson, 36, invited friends and collaborators who’ve been important to the development of Isshī, including Staples, 39, and Robínson’s former partner and current housemate Jeauni Cassanova, 30, with whom they started the brand in 2019. Cassanova, a vintage clothing collector and TikTok creator, was the first guest to arrive, ambling up the stairs to the studio in a pair of eggshell-blue ostrich-leather pumps. The photographer Oscar Ouk, 35, arrived next, followed by the fashion designer Claire Sullivan, 30, and Sabrina Reales, 35, the founder of Sel Aer Studio, an agency that represents fashion and accessory lines including Isshī. Robínson greeted each new arrival with a “Hi, queen!” and a kiss on both cheeks.

Steamed dumplings from the restaurant Dim Sum Go Go. “I love dim sum. It’s easy,” Robínson said. “It’s very quintessential Chinatown, very New York.” Photography by Linda Xiao.

The table:

To prepare for the event, Robínson and Staples picked up several sets of chopsticks, simple white plates and plastic tip trays from a nearby kitchen supply store and arranged them on a long wooden table. The centrepiece was a bouquet by the florist Audrey Hilfiger filled with white-edged purple orchids.

Some guests wore necklaces from Isshī’s resort 2025 collection as they ate. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The food:

To keep the focus on their friends and the collection, Robínson opted to order in for lunch. From the restaurant Dim Sum Go Go — a neighbourhood favourite where Robínson often holds meetings — they selected takeaway dishes of golden-brown fried rice, plump vegetable dumplings and string beans glistening with sambal sauce. As Staples lifted the lid of a bamboo steamer, the group shrieked with excitement at the sight of some bubble-gum pink dumplings; the wrappers had been dyed with beet juice and filled with a mixture of lotus root, cabbage and jicama, which gave them a subtle crunch. Later, Robínson brought out a stack of salty almond cookies purchased from M & W Bakery, located on the studio building’s ground floor, and a plastic pitcher overflowing with oranges.

A batch of vegetarian dumplings filled with cilantro and black mushrooms. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The drinks:

Guests brought their own beverages to share with the table. A bottle of orange wine from the Spanish label Gulp/Hablo — an easy-drinking mixture of verdejo and sauvignon blanc varietals — was passed around and poured into ceramic diner–style coffee mugs.

The music:

“Kind of summer island, beachy, tits out” is the atmosphere Robínson said they wanted to conjure with their playlist, which included the Canadian studio project Vera’s underground disco anthem “Take Me to the Bridge” and “Love in C Minor – Outro” by the French producer Cerrone. When the Italo-disco artist La Bellini’s gooey 1978 track “Satan in Love” came on, Robínson began to wiggle in their seat at the head of the table, moved by the sludgy bass line.

“It feels so full-circle and so appropriate to have my favorite New York City friends here with me celebrating,” Robinson said. Photography by Linda Xiao.

The conversation:

Rather than assigning seating, Robínson placed a different trinket on each plate and asked their friends to sit by the one that most resonated with them, sharing their reasoning with the group. Everyone is a doll to Robínson, the hospitality manager Zach Ligas, 35, announced to the room, as the designer helped clasp necklaces and bracelets onto their guests, who wore their picks for the duration of the event.

After the meal, everyone climbed onto the fire escape, which overlooks East Broadway. Photography by Linda Xiao.

An entertaining tip:

Robínson is careful to ensure that every detail of a party is aligned — especially their outfit. For this lunch, they paired a striped Christopher John Rogers dress with a plush chartreuse hat to which they affixed a dumpling-shaped pin, a playful nod to the meal they’d be serving. “My aunt told me years and years ago growing up that presentation is everything,” they said. “And I don’t miss a detail, ever.”

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